por 15

61ford · Post by **61ford** » December 19, 2006, 8:02 pm

have anyone ever used this?im thinking about doing my frame like this or having it powercoated i bought some cheaper stuff and wasnt really happy with how it came out kinda a brown color and went over it several times and i can still see rust in a few spots.ive seen por 15 done alittle on tv but im just afraid with this stuff i bought itll eventually come back.also has anyone ever powercoated a frame how much does it cost ive heard its not that bad?

DanSanDiego2000 · Post by **DanSanDiego2000** » December 19, 2006, 9:28 pm

61Ford,
Yes, I have used POR15, and I really like it. I think of it as kinda a "poorman's powdercoat". It takes a while to dry (extended pot life), but because of that, any brushmarks or runs have a chance to self-level, smooth out, and leave a really smooth, glossy surface. It is chemical resistant to oils, gasoline, solvents, etc., but it is not UV stable. So, for the frame, it would hold up well, but anything exposed to UV is supposed to be painted after the POR15.
I used it on the sheetmetal engine shrouds of a classic VW Bug once, and it looked great, but I have also used it on a tow bar we fabricated for a jet-ski for use in salt water. Held up great.
I'd stay away from the 'off-brand' epoxy paints.
Good luck.
Dan

six-two · Post by **six-two** » December 19, 2006, 10:17 pm

I want to use POR-15 on my truck, but does anyone know how long it has been on the market? I'm wondering how well it works on a long term basis.

______________________________________six-two

Comet · Post by **Comet** » December 19, 2006, 10:29 pm

It's been out there over 10 years. There are lots of companies now that offer similar formulas that counteract rust. I've used POR-15 many times and I'm happy with it, but it's not cheap.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » December 19, 2006, 10:33 pm

POR15 is good stuff.follow their directions and it will turn out right.
my 66 has a POR15 frame 5years now no issues, also did cab floor both sides,firewall, kickpanels and stepwells.

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » December 19, 2006, 11:55 pm

I did my frame with POR 15 so I could touch it up. In the end, powdercoating would have cost me $50-100 bucks more. But you can't take a paintbrush and touch up rock chips on that.

and the stuff is REALLY strong. for a long time and I mean a LONG time, while my body was away at the body shop, my frame was also my bench. You can pound on that stuff to beat the band, hardly makes a scuff on it. :wink:

66fordtrucknut · Post by **66fordtrucknut** » December 20, 2006, 6:04 am

Yep, it's great stuff, they also have a engine kit that looks like it's ceramic coated when it's done. About the cheapest place to get it is directly from them. Just do a google search for por-15. DO NOT let it dry on your hands or you will be wearing it off. I did my frame with it and like Dan, says it tightens up nicely when it drys.
Charlie

61ford · Post by **61ford** » December 20, 2006, 7:57 am

thanks guys i just dont wanna be taking the truck apart years from now to fix rust.how much you think i need for just frame and rearend a gallon prolly?

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » December 20, 2006, 9:45 am

Can the Por be sprayed? Some of the paints and primers now days claim they give you cancer unless you wear breathing apparatus.

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » December 20, 2006, 12:22 pm

It can be sprayed but read their directions carefully.
Clean your equipment quickly and completely or you're going to regret it.
If you brush it on and want to put the lid back on the can, be sure to use several layers of Saran Wrap between the lid and the can or you'll have to cut a hole in the lid to get back in the can. It literally welds itself together if you don't.
U@ss

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » December 20, 2006, 12:36 pm

Uncle Skip wrote:It can be sprayed but read their directions carefully.
Clean your equipment quickly and completely or you're going to regret it.
If you brush it on and want to put the lid back on the can, be sure to use several layers of Saran Wrap between the lid and the can or you'll have to cut a hole in the lid to get back in the can. It literally welds itself together if you don't.
U@ss

yes and the brush left to harden will become a lethal weapon. :stick:

took a long freakin' time for it to wear off my skin.

NYf-100 · Post by **NYf-100** » December 20, 2006, 1:30 pm

I have a friend in the local VW club who used POR 15 on his Kharmann Ghia floor pan when he restored it over 10 years ago. He claims it is still shiny black, no rust. I made the mistake of using the POR 15 semi-gloss black. DO NOT DO THIS!!!! While the gloss black smooths out very well and hides the brush marks the semi-gloss formulation does not flow out very much. You will end up with most brush marks visible and an uneven looking paint job. I had to sand the frame to remove the marks and believe me, it was not easy, this stuff is tough. After I sanded it, I decided that I better paint the frame to give it a uniform semi-gloss black color. Well, to paint POR 15, you must use their own primer to bond to it, so I bought that to spray on the frame. It can't be sprayed unless you have a fresh air mask. The primer contains iso cyanates which is something you don't want to breathe. I brush painted this on the frame while wearing a good respirator. After that dried, I sanded the frame again. Now I finally sprayed it with Eastwoods chassis black paint. Due to my anger over having to sand the frame multiple times, I used Eastwoods rust encapsilator rust inhibiting paint on the other chassis parts I was restoring. It was sprayable and you can paint over it without having to worry about using an intermediate primer. The results look great, but I am not sure it has the same chip resistance as the POR 15. The other thing I forgot to mention, use POR 15's metal cleaner and metal prep first to treat the rust. This will help in keeping it from coming back. After painting items with POR 15 that have threaded holes, tap the holes before trying to run a bolt through them, The bolts will not cut the paint, POR 15 will ruin the threads.

Bill

douglloyd · Post by **douglloyd** » December 20, 2006, 1:46 pm

I've used it and it works well, especially frames. But it does not hold up in sunlight - peels off.

I stripped a shortbed '66 1/2ton frame down to steel - all parts taken off that could be taken off - and painted it with POR black using a brush. You can't clean the drips off anything, so I did it on jackstands out in my yard. I had posted a picture of the finished frame (so purty!) on the old MSN website and will have to see if I can find it. Ditto on the skin thing - won't clean off, has to wear off. I don't remember it buggering up any threads though. Throw away the brush and good luck sealing any leftover paint.

Funny, for this being a Ford truck forum, there's lots of VW topics. I have three, two '67 buses and a restored '66 bug. The POR did not hold up well on the floorpan of the bug - peeled off because this area is tough to keep dry. Also the metal is thin and flexes under your feet. Worked great on the engine tin, which can get really hot. Was planning to undercoat the buses with the stuff when I dive into the project.

I'd use it wherever brush marks don't matter, and really clean up the metal first. That part about P_aint O_ver R_ust? Good luck...

Doug

61ford · Post by **61ford** » December 20, 2006, 6:42 pm

so are you saying that if i dont use the metal prep the rust will eventually come back?how much did you all use on your frame this stuff is so hard to reopen i dont want to buy no more than i have too.

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » December 20, 2006, 6:55 pm

Like I said, a few layers of Saran Wrap between the lid and can and you'll have no problems.
U@ss

Shawn F. · Post by **Shawn F.** » December 20, 2006, 9:14 pm

POR 15 is the best stuff I have used so far. We use it at the shop on EVERYTHING. Floor pans and chassis are the best with it. Saran wrap does keep it good and fresh...

castruck_1964 · Post by **castruck_1964** » December 20, 2006, 9:15 pm

like the guys said earlier Follow the instructions on ths can. Its area must be clean of grease and oil and must be treated with meatal prep prior to application. Also says on can to use plastic when putting lid back on to prevent bonding the lid to the can.my buddy put the lid back on my can with out plastic :oops:

said the rim was pretty clean :evil:

I destroyed the can two days :shock:

later trying to get theF!@$#$$!@ lid off :stick:

other than that work good no brush marks and painted over top of it with no issues

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » December 20, 2006, 9:48 pm

Yes you have to eather remove or stop the rust. The metel=ready is the best stuff I have ever used. be sure to save the run off of the metel ready as it can be reused.

I plan on using the POR-15 on the floor, but the rest I am going to use the enamel paint from TSC as you can touch it up a little easier.

61ford · Post by **61ford** » December 20, 2006, 10:17 pm

thanks guys got me a gallon of metal ready and gallon of por15 ordered tonite going to pull the body of the truck in garage on new years and start fixing my floors and all the rot on weekends and prolly during week por the frame and start getting ready for my cv front suspension

66fordtrucknut · Post by **66fordtrucknut** » December 21, 2006, 5:17 am

[albumimg]1265[/albumimg] This is the engine kit, it's a couple of step process but I really like it.
Charlie