por 15

Post by **Greg D** » December 21, 2006, 11:28 am

I don't know how much POR you ordered but I have been keeping track of this ? for some time. It seems as though Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator might be a little easier and cheaper to use, POR is a 3 to 4 (overcoat) step process chemcally where as Rust encapsulator is 1. POR is not UV stable and R.E. is, plus you just clean the part and put it on. Both can be sprayed, and both can be painted over I would recomend it with POR because of UV instability. You might want to take a look at the stuff from Eastwood, I will be using on my truck. Just my http://www.eastwoodco.com/

61ford · Post by **61ford** » December 21, 2006, 12:08 pm

greg thanks for the tip.uv isnt a big deal only place im using this is on the frame i had looked at there stuff before i bought that cheap stuff i bought the reason why i went with por 15 was bc of all the good stuff people said about it on here and i want to make sure the rust never comes back and ive already expermented with the cheaper stuff not saying that eastwood isnt any good but with everyone saying first hand stuff about por 15 on there trucks thats why i went with theirs.But im glad you pointed out there site ended up buying a powercoating book might look into doing this stuff on the side im gonna have a grille done like that anyway and prolly get a serpentine system from a junkyard for my 351 and powercoat it

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » December 21, 2006, 1:32 pm

Regular POR will chalk up and peal in UV, but they do have a differant formula (CHASSIS COAT BLACK, and BLACKCOTE ) that do not brake down under UV light.

I am going to use the Chassis on the underside of the fenders and the Rad support. the rest will be paint from TSC.

Shawn F. · Post by **Shawn F.** » December 21, 2006, 10:35 pm

A gallon of POR 15 should be enough to do all of you floors inside and underneath, the chassis, engine compartment and INSIDE of your doors and underneath your fenders. A gallon runs a LONG ways with POR 15. Sometimes on chassis and inside of doors I don't use metal ready or marine clean, I clean the surface with pre cleaner (wax and grease remover) and just put it on with NO problems. It's ok to do this as well.
Sometimes people put the POR 15 on too thick and waste it. Too thick and it will start to peel easily. Put a lot on your brush and keep pulling it with you as you go down the frame or floor and it will go a long ways. I need to order me a gallon or two for my 66 F100 and my 48 chevy. I use it on the floors, inside the doors and everything inside, chassis, rear end, under the fenders, etc. Put it in a squirt (sp) bottle and poor it in the batter tray and radiator support as well and around the body mounts especially.
You will be happy with POR 15, best stuff out there for rust.

Comet · Post by **Comet** » December 21, 2006, 11:57 pm

I've also used the Rust Encapsulator as well. I actually prefer it and I think it's tougher. In fact, tomorrow morning I'm painting my front axle with the stuff. They offer a primer, which does not have to be used. But if it is used, it makes the part very chip resistant.

Robert · Post by **Robert** » December 23, 2006, 11:06 am

do you guys have any pics of the frames that you used this stuff on

bodyman1959 · Post by **bodyman1959** » December 25, 2006, 10:41 am

I have been reading all of your tips on POR-15 and seems like the common theme is to use some kind of metal prep under the POR-15. Even when you have had the part ( be it frame or cab or ? ) sandblasted you need to use metal prep underneath? This seems like defeating the purpose of the POR-15. And I also get the impression that you can use the POR like on the cab floor and you can still paint it with whatever color you want. Is that about right?

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » December 25, 2006, 11:33 am

Bodyman1959,

You Need to stop the rust (sandblat, grind or do it chemicaly). but you only need to do one. sandblasting will leave a nice tooth for the POR to bond to. The chemical metal prep will stop the rusting and leave behind a zinc layer for the POR to bond too.
you can not just paint over POR you need to use the primer they sell. Yes you have to use theres, the others will not stick.

Welcome to the board!

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » December 25, 2006, 12:09 pm

i used the POR paint for the firewall and stepwell areas, its a 2 parts paint and hardener and made to topcoat the por15.
i also used their topcoat on the frame.
in total i used
one quart por-15 black to do the frame
one quart topcoat on the frame
one quart por-15 grey on cab floor and underside of cab
one quart red por-15 paint.
if it was not so expensive i would do the entire truck in por-15.

the por grey is thick and used with fiberglass matting makes a nice repair of holes.

i followed their directions and so far , 5 years later ,still happy.

Comet · Post by **Comet** » December 25, 2006, 3:30 pm

I've always used POR directly on metal. Metal doesn't need to be completely rust free, just the loose stuff off. In fact, it works better that way in my experience. Either way, you'll need to rough up the surface to create a "tooth" for the POR to bite on.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » December 25, 2006, 3:58 pm

my frame was not badly rusted or scaled, a good wire brushing. power wash and metal ready it had just the right amount of tooth for the POR.

the 2 part paint was a little different as the firewall and steps had no rust it took a while to tack to the paint and 2 coats to get the desired finish but i cannot chip it.be careful about bolt heads and protruding threads as you will not get the por off or a socket to fit on the head after it hardens.i left some screws in the firewall so the color would match , i had to use vise grips to get them out

the grey thick stuff i used on the cab floor and underside, had a few minor floor holes so i used the fiberglass mat and the por like resin, you can hit it with a hammer and it dont move.

Shawn F. · Post by **Shawn F.** » December 25, 2006, 6:35 pm

Comet is correct, if you read about POR 15 it actually NEEDS to have rust to bite the best. If you clean the metal and blast it with no rust then it will actually create some rust under it before it's fully cured. Same with that Loctite spray can stuff (I cannot remember the name of it right now for some reason). Just wire brush it or sand it down with 80-180 grit, pre clean it and put it on. I have never tried their paint though. Their bondo they have is very good, it's expensive but has I think 30% more resin in it and is very good.

61ford · Post by **61ford** » December 26, 2006, 12:46 pm

got my stuff today and start applying it and it looks great!