por 15
por 15
have anyone ever used this?im thinking about doing my frame like this or having it powercoated i bought some cheaper stuff and wasnt really happy with how it came out kinda a brown color and went over it several times and i can still see rust in a few spots.ive seen por 15 done alittle on tv but im just afraid with this stuff i bought itll eventually come back.also has anyone ever powercoated a frame how much does it cost ive heard its not that bad?
Ryan
61 Ford f100 Unibody short bed
351w/Aod
61 Ford f100 Unibody short bed
351w/Aod
- DanSanDiego2000
- Posts: 275
- Joined: August 14, 2006, 8:59 pm
- Location: San Diego
POR 15
61Ford,
Yes, I have used POR15, and I really like it. I think of it as kinda a "poorman's powdercoat". It takes a while to dry (extended pot life), but because of that, any brushmarks or runs have a chance to self-level, smooth out, and leave a really smooth, glossy surface. It is chemical resistant to oils, gasoline, solvents, etc., but it is not UV stable. So, for the frame, it would hold up well, but anything exposed to UV is supposed to be painted after the POR15.
I used it on the sheetmetal engine shrouds of a classic VW Bug once, and it looked great, but I have also used it on a tow bar we fabricated for a jet-ski for use in salt water. Held up great.
I'd stay away from the 'off-brand' epoxy paints.
Good luck.
Dan
Yes, I have used POR15, and I really like it. I think of it as kinda a "poorman's powdercoat". It takes a while to dry (extended pot life), but because of that, any brushmarks or runs have a chance to self-level, smooth out, and leave a really smooth, glossy surface. It is chemical resistant to oils, gasoline, solvents, etc., but it is not UV stable. So, for the frame, it would hold up well, but anything exposed to UV is supposed to be painted after the POR15.
I used it on the sheetmetal engine shrouds of a classic VW Bug once, and it looked great, but I have also used it on a tow bar we fabricated for a jet-ski for use in salt water. Held up great.
I'd stay away from the 'off-brand' epoxy paints.
Good luck.
Dan
-
- Posts: 11470
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
- Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842
POR15 is good stuff.follow their directions and it will turn out right.
my 66 has a POR15 frame 5years now no issues, also did cab floor both sides,firewall, kickpanels and stepwells.
my 66 has a POR15 frame 5years now no issues, also did cab floor both sides,firewall, kickpanels and stepwells.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
- Johnny Canuck
- Posts: 8288
- Joined: April 9, 2006, 11:14 pm
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta.
I did my frame with POR 15 so I could touch it up. In the end, powdercoating would have cost me $50-100 bucks more. But you can't take a paintbrush and touch up rock chips on that.
and the stuff is REALLY strong. for a long time and I mean a LONG time, while my body was away at the body shop, my frame was also my bench. You can pound on that stuff to beat the band, hardly makes a scuff on it.
and the stuff is REALLY strong. for a long time and I mean a LONG time, while my body was away at the body shop, my frame was also my bench. You can pound on that stuff to beat the band, hardly makes a scuff on it.
It's a race.. Will hell freeze over or will JC finish his truck first. Stay tuned..
- 66fordtrucknut
- Posts: 1289
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:48 pm
- Location: Eastern Shore - MD
Yep, it's great stuff, they also have a engine kit that looks like it's ceramic coated when it's done. About the cheapest place to get it is directly from them. Just do a google search for por-15. DO NOT let it dry on your hands or you will be wearing it off. I did my frame with it and like Dan, says it tightens up nicely when it drys.
Charlie
Charlie
62' SWB uni 223
66' F-100 Short/wide 352
78' F-350 dually dumpbed 400
12' F-150 5.0 3:73 LS
66' F-100 Short/wide 352
78' F-350 dually dumpbed 400
12' F-150 5.0 3:73 LS
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas
It can be sprayed but read their directions carefully.
Clean your equipment quickly and completely or you're going to regret it.
If you brush it on and want to put the lid back on the can, be sure to use several layers of Saran Wrap between the lid and the can or you'll have to cut a hole in the lid to get back in the can. It literally welds itself together if you don't.
U@ss
Clean your equipment quickly and completely or you're going to regret it.
If you brush it on and want to put the lid back on the can, be sure to use several layers of Saran Wrap between the lid and the can or you'll have to cut a hole in the lid to get back in the can. It literally welds itself together if you don't.
U@ss
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
-
- Posts: 11470
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
- Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842
Uncle Skip wrote:It can be sprayed but read their directions carefully.
Clean your equipment quickly and completely or you're going to regret it.
If you brush it on and want to put the lid back on the can, be sure to use several layers of Saran Wrap between the lid and the can or you'll have to cut a hole in the lid to get back in the can. It literally welds itself together if you don't.
U@ss
yes and the brush left to harden will become a lethal weapon.
took a long freakin' time for it to wear off my skin.
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
POR15
I have a friend in the local VW club who used POR 15 on his Kharmann Ghia floor pan when he restored it over 10 years ago. He claims it is still shiny black, no rust. I made the mistake of using the POR 15 semi-gloss black. DO NOT DO THIS!!!! While the gloss black smooths out very well and hides the brush marks the semi-gloss formulation does not flow out very much. You will end up with most brush marks visible and an uneven looking paint job. I had to sand the frame to remove the marks and believe me, it was not easy, this stuff is tough. After I sanded it, I decided that I better paint the frame to give it a uniform semi-gloss black color. Well, to paint POR 15, you must use their own primer to bond to it, so I bought that to spray on the frame. It can't be sprayed unless you have a fresh air mask. The primer contains iso cyanates which is something you don't want to breathe. I brush painted this on the frame while wearing a good respirator. After that dried, I sanded the frame again. Now I finally sprayed it with Eastwoods chassis black paint. Due to my anger over having to sand the frame multiple times, I used Eastwoods rust encapsilator rust inhibiting paint on the other chassis parts I was restoring. It was sprayable and you can paint over it without having to worry about using an intermediate primer. The results look great, but I am not sure it has the same chip resistance as the POR 15. The other thing I forgot to mention, use POR 15's metal cleaner and metal prep first to treat the rust. This will help in keeping it from coming back. After painting items with POR 15 that have threaded holes, tap the holes before trying to run a bolt through them, The bolts will not cut the paint, POR 15 will ruin the threads.
Bill
Bill
I've used it and it works well, especially frames. But it does not hold up in sunlight - peels off.
I stripped a shortbed '66 1/2ton frame down to steel - all parts taken off that could be taken off - and painted it with POR black using a brush. You can't clean the drips off anything, so I did it on jackstands out in my yard. I had posted a picture of the finished frame (so purty!) on the old MSN website and will have to see if I can find it. Ditto on the skin thing - won't clean off, has to wear off. I don't remember it buggering up any threads though. Throw away the brush and good luck sealing any leftover paint.
Funny, for this being a Ford truck forum, there's lots of VW topics. I have three, two '67 buses and a restored '66 bug. The POR did not hold up well on the floorpan of the bug - peeled off because this area is tough to keep dry. Also the metal is thin and flexes under your feet. Worked great on the engine tin, which can get really hot. Was planning to undercoat the buses with the stuff when I dive into the project.
I'd use it wherever brush marks don't matter, and really clean up the metal first. That part about P_aint O_ver R_ust? Good luck...
Doug
I stripped a shortbed '66 1/2ton frame down to steel - all parts taken off that could be taken off - and painted it with POR black using a brush. You can't clean the drips off anything, so I did it on jackstands out in my yard. I had posted a picture of the finished frame (so purty!) on the old MSN website and will have to see if I can find it. Ditto on the skin thing - won't clean off, has to wear off. I don't remember it buggering up any threads though. Throw away the brush and good luck sealing any leftover paint.
Funny, for this being a Ford truck forum, there's lots of VW topics. I have three, two '67 buses and a restored '66 bug. The POR did not hold up well on the floorpan of the bug - peeled off because this area is tough to keep dry. Also the metal is thin and flexes under your feet. Worked great on the engine tin, which can get really hot. Was planning to undercoat the buses with the stuff when I dive into the project.
I'd use it wherever brush marks don't matter, and really clean up the metal first. That part about P_aint O_ver R_ust? Good luck...
Doug
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas
-
- Posts: 643
- Joined: August 3, 2006, 3:45 pm
- Location: Ramara Ontario
like the guys said earlier Follow the instructions on ths can. Its area must be clean of grease and oil and must be treated with meatal prep prior to application. Also says on can to use plastic when putting lid back on to prevent bonding the lid to the can.my buddy put the lid back on my can with out plastic said the rim was pretty clean I destroyed the can two days later trying to get theF!@$#$$!@ lid off
other than that work good no brush marks and painted over top of it with no issues
other than that work good no brush marks and painted over top of it with no issues
Slicks rule
dd/ 19 F150,97 Tbird
62 swb bbw uni next project
460 C6
Ken
dd/ 19 F150,97 Tbird
62 swb bbw uni next project
460 C6
Ken
Yes you have to eather remove or stop the rust. The metel=ready is the best stuff I have ever used. be sure to save the run off of the metel ready as it can be reused.
I plan on using the POR-15 on the floor, but the rest I am going to use the enamel paint from TSC as you can touch it up a little easier.
I plan on using the POR-15 on the floor, but the rest I am going to use the enamel paint from TSC as you can touch it up a little easier.
thanks guys got me a gallon of metal ready and gallon of por15 ordered tonite going to pull the body of the truck in garage on new years and start fixing my floors and all the rot on weekends and prolly during week por the frame and start getting ready for my cv front suspension
Ryan
61 Ford f100 Unibody short bed
351w/Aod
61 Ford f100 Unibody short bed
351w/Aod
- 66fordtrucknut
- Posts: 1289
- Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:48 pm
- Location: Eastern Shore - MD