Steering wheel repair on a budget.
Posted: October 19, 2009, 2:45 pm
OK, so I know there are a few neigh sayers out there that will probably roll their eyes at this and say "leave it to the pro's" but, on a budget this is the best way I've devised for a decent repair for you old ford steering wheel. Granted, this is the way I do it, and I can't be held responsible for damage to your wheel. Beware and do this only if you feel your level of experience will allow you.
Here is the offending beast, a 45 year old, nasty cracked wheel:
The first step is to remove the wheel making sure to unscrew the horn contact on the back. Next you clean the wheel thoroughly. And I do mean thoroughly! You need to make sure that the areas inside the cracks get clean as well. I've fount that good old fashioned lacquer thinner works well.
Next take a triangular file and grove each and every crack. Mix yourself up some JB Weld. I know, I know but, I've tried everything and JB Weld (not the quick stuff) holds up really well and is easy to work. I use it for everything, even wood working. It's hard and like I said easy to shape.
You'll probably have to buy a couple of packages depending on how badly your wheel is cracked.
When you're done your wheel will look like this:
Now, walk away and leave it set over night.
The next day, start with a flat file for the outside and a half-round for the inside and roughly shape the filler but not too much. Now the fun part. Clear your schedule and plan on a few thumb blisters. Sand every nook and cranny until you get the desired shape. This isn't like bondo work where you leave a little filler in place to hide the dent. No, you have to sand away all the filler except for what's in the cracks. Start with course (80 grit) and work your way up to extra fine (400 grit) until the wheels shape is once again smooth. Remember, if you can feel it, you'll be able to see it once it's painted.
Now, for the paint. Here is the sanded, painted wheel:
On other forums there is much talk about the proper paint used to paint the wheel. Personally, I use duplicolor truck and van lacquer. It leaves a beautiful shine and is durable. Sure, maybe not as durable as an epoxy based paint but hell, I don't mind pulling this thing back off down the road and fixing it. Use what ever paint you want. I use the duplicolor because I can get it in a color that is complementary to the trucks interior. Granted, duplicolor doens't make "Marlin Blue".
Let it harden, as painters we are inevitably impatient. Give it a few hours in the sun to cure a bit. Lay a clean towel on your bench and lay the wheel face down and replace the horn contact ring. Then put the wheel back in and ta-da, 45 years of wear have magically disappeared. I figure after 40 some years the wheel has shrunk as much as it will in my lifetime so cracks down the road shouldn't be a problem.
Is it as nice as one of those $400 professional repairs? Probably not, but the untrained eye would have a problem pointing it out.
Here is the offending beast, a 45 year old, nasty cracked wheel:
The first step is to remove the wheel making sure to unscrew the horn contact on the back. Next you clean the wheel thoroughly. And I do mean thoroughly! You need to make sure that the areas inside the cracks get clean as well. I've fount that good old fashioned lacquer thinner works well.
Next take a triangular file and grove each and every crack. Mix yourself up some JB Weld. I know, I know but, I've tried everything and JB Weld (not the quick stuff) holds up really well and is easy to work. I use it for everything, even wood working. It's hard and like I said easy to shape.
You'll probably have to buy a couple of packages depending on how badly your wheel is cracked.
When you're done your wheel will look like this:
Now, walk away and leave it set over night.
The next day, start with a flat file for the outside and a half-round for the inside and roughly shape the filler but not too much. Now the fun part. Clear your schedule and plan on a few thumb blisters. Sand every nook and cranny until you get the desired shape. This isn't like bondo work where you leave a little filler in place to hide the dent. No, you have to sand away all the filler except for what's in the cracks. Start with course (80 grit) and work your way up to extra fine (400 grit) until the wheels shape is once again smooth. Remember, if you can feel it, you'll be able to see it once it's painted.
Now, for the paint. Here is the sanded, painted wheel:
On other forums there is much talk about the proper paint used to paint the wheel. Personally, I use duplicolor truck and van lacquer. It leaves a beautiful shine and is durable. Sure, maybe not as durable as an epoxy based paint but hell, I don't mind pulling this thing back off down the road and fixing it. Use what ever paint you want. I use the duplicolor because I can get it in a color that is complementary to the trucks interior. Granted, duplicolor doens't make "Marlin Blue".
Let it harden, as painters we are inevitably impatient. Give it a few hours in the sun to cure a bit. Lay a clean towel on your bench and lay the wheel face down and replace the horn contact ring. Then put the wheel back in and ta-da, 45 years of wear have magically disappeared. I figure after 40 some years the wheel has shrunk as much as it will in my lifetime so cracks down the road shouldn't be a problem.
Is it as nice as one of those $400 professional repairs? Probably not, but the untrained eye would have a problem pointing it out.
