jercasche's 64 f100 swb

[jercasche]

A little break from working on the truck and time to show off some progress. The Texoma F100 Roundup was May 5th and the whole family went. It was great because it was in a park connected to a zoo, there were food vendors, and we were under trees to keep the heat down. There were over 120 Ford's registered.







I parked the trailer in a good spot. Still need an alignment, plus the whole family fits in the newer Ford much better. I think the back needs to come up a little more.

[jercasche]

I decided to get new shoes for the truck. They are 17x8 wheels.



After I drove home from the tire shop it was discovered that the rear driver's side tire rubbed on the inside of the wheel well. It looks like the ridges and a dent pushing it in were the culprits. The front wheel and tire combo fits really well but the rears are just a bit too wide for the opening.


The tire shop quickly replaced the tire but I decided to do a 1-2 in. mini tub to make them fit just because they fill up the wheel well so well. I think it is about 1/4" but I am not comfortable running wheel spacers to correct the issue. I also believe the suspension movement might be part of the culprit as well with the rear 4-link.

[rtcapo]

If I remember right it was Performance Online. It fit right into the stock location. It was a generic bolt on to the firewall. I had to make an extension for the plunger because the stock one was too short.

I would recommend a mustang MC because this one was about twice as expensive. It should bolt right up.

All of the other brake stuff came from Speedway but I had to find a few extra things to complete it. The kit came from CPP but Speedway sold it.

_________________
1964 F-100 SWB, 292,
IC front suspension
No-Limit Fatbar 4 link
full rewire complete
T-5 transmission
Front Tilt Hood

I know this was awhile back, but which Mustang year MC would you reccomend?
I have a '64 as well and want to keep the drum brakes, but upgrade to a dual res mc.
6 cylinder manual.

thanks

rc

[jercasche]

RC,

I am not sure on what one to get. You need a dual reservoir master cylinder for a drum/drum setup. The only components are a plunger which is fairly universal that goes from the pedal to the back of the cylinder and 2 bolt holes on the firewall to match up. The one that I got required no modifications to the firewall but it is for a disc/drum setup. The conversion to front discs is actually pretty simple and only about $300. The stopping power increased dramatically swapping to the discs.

[My wife's nightmare]

I used a 1970 F100 manual assist, drum/drum master cylinder on a 65 that wanted to keep
the original brakes but upgrade to a dual reservoir. My truck has a 68 Mustang manual assist,
drum/drum master. You will most likely have to shorten the pushrod or re-use your original.

[jercasche]

Here are the driver's side spot welds drilled out.



The new wheel wells I ordered from Dennis Carpenter for a Bronco. It looks like they are very close in dimensions and will work just fine. The round wheel tubs just aren't the look I am looking for and they should look close to factory except for those that would truly notice them. My plan is to cut off the existing wheel well leaving some behind to extend them out about 1 1/2" to 2". I'm just a little nervous about stitching in the new ones so they look like someone fixed them that has a clue.

[jercasche]

Here is the driver's side wheel well cut out. I left 4" along the bedside of the original and will end up cutting off some of the edge of the replacement ones to butt weld them together. The total width gained will be about 2 3/4" in the end.


Here is what is left of the bedside. I think the best way is to keep the part that was plug welded to the old fenders and move it to the new location of the edge and plug weld it to the bottom of the existing floor. The support bars will need to be shortened and the center piece will need to be replaced as well for strength and a solid tie off point for the new wheel well.

[jercasche]

A little progress this weekend. I ended up widening the wheel well by 2 3/4". A little clean up and cutting the new fender then welding it in for good. The passenger side should go much faster.

[jercasche]

A little more progress these past couple of days. The wheel well had to be opened up a tad larger to allow for the backer piece to be welded to the bed. Here is the wider wheel well opening and the backer piece welded in that the wheel well will be plug welded to. The wheel well will be sealed with seam sealer.


The extension wheel well was cut down to size and it fits pretty well. The only thing left is to grind the edges of both wheel wells in order to butt weld it properly. This project is taking much longer than anticipated but it involves learning to weld decently and figuring how to make some pretty complex cuts on the metal to make everything fit just right.

[04sd]

Looking really good so far.

[jercasche]

Got the drivers side wheel well welded in most of the way. There is a little bit of cleanup and a little filler to finish it off. This side was made much more difficult by trying to wire weld the panels together. After changing the setup to MIG it went much better. This is my first time welding together thin metal and MIG welding. The only other thing I have welded was the 1 in. square tubing frame for the fuel tank under the bed.


I had to throw the wheels back on and drive it around a bit to see how everything looks.

[jercasche]

Here is the day that I bought my truck. 235 75 R15 all around


Here is what it looks like today. The paint has not been changed, just everything underneath. 275 60 R17 on the back.

[jercasche]

I was just going through the pictures from the repairs on the cab and realized the amount of rust in the kick panels and front cab corners.
Floor pans removed.


Front cab mount


Cleaned up and Por 15 front cab mount


Floor pans back in.

[jercasche]

Original kick panel.

Kick panel roughed in.


Kick panel finished.


Passenger front cab corner.


Cab corner fixed.

[BobbyFord]

Nice job on the mini tubs. I did the same thing to my '72, fit 325/50/15s under the bed.

[jercasche]

Thank you,
Doing this mini tub job has upped my confidence with metal work and welding. Now I am contemplating attacking the rear cab corners and starting some of the body work. Whoever did the body work previously cut a few corners and the major issues are starting to show in a few areas. I am pretty sure I found a bullet hole in the side of the top rail of the bed. Someone just filled it with Bondo and called it a day. I started working on that grey spot on the hood already and have straightened it out quite a bit from the dent that was just filled in with Bondo.

[jercasche]

Progress has been slow on this mini tub job. Finally the driver's side is done and painted.


I finally started on the passenger side this month and have made it to the point where it is all tacked in and a little finish welding before body work is needed. The passenger side has flown going together and looks 100x times better after learning on the driver's side. I had a couple of holes to fill on this fender and they don't even look like they were there other than the missing paint.

[SteveCanup]

Subscribed...great build thread.

[jercasche]

The tubs were both finished and painted. Another project is to paint the entire bed.

I got tired of looking at my primed transmission hump and decided to pull it out of the truck. I painted it black and then put some sound deadening insulation on it. While the paint was curing I decided to paint the floorpans black and get rid of the bare metal. The back of the cab and floorpans will be covered in the same insulation. I also lined the inside of the doors and am impressed with how much quieter the doors shut now. A rubber floor mat has been ordered and the floors will be done.

I traced an issue I have been having with a headlight going out intermittently and found one of the wires was not staying inside the plug. Once that was corrected the issue seems to be fixed.

Progress has been fairly slow. This spring and summer has been great as I have attended a few cars and coffee events as well as some car shows. My kids are getting interested in riding in my truck and my oldest son likes to help me right now so the fire has been lit again.

[jercasche]

Here is the picture from the drivers side of the dash and newly insulated floor. There is some buttoning up to do yet to get it back together. The goal was to cover up the radio patch and that looks pretty good right now. It wouldn't take much more effort to top coat the rest of the dash so it all blends together a little better.




The valve covers, headers, intake, and brake master cylinder were cleaned up and top coated.