started disc brake swap

dotcentral · Post by **dotcentral** » January 22, 2007, 8:30 am

I added a few photos to the gallery. A buddy has a nice garage and is working on it with me there until I can get it roadworthy and cleaned up.

Pulled the drum parts, I-beams, shocks, springs etc. I got frontend parts from a 76 when I bought the truck, so those will probably go on in place.

It's a 352 with oil bath cleaner. 3 speed manual longbed custom cab. Fairly straight. Hood is rusted through at leading edge. Floors patched by previous owner.

I think my plan is to take it back stock looking, with upgrades for safety like the brakes. May add a MP3 player or get an underdash mount for a radio, it would be a shame to cut a hole in that dash.

I took photos of the engine bay, but I'm too embarassed by my attempt to do brake lines from the m/c to the prop valve to post them. Having the M/C with the lines point towards the engine doesn't help. I will probably hit a yard and buy a set of lines off a 73+ truck and use those instead.

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » January 22, 2007, 10:37 am

Very wise decision.
Brakes first.
If you can get to one of those cheap tool outlets, there is a very good little tube bender available for a couple of bucks that works wonders on the brake lines.
Just plan out the line route in advance and bend them to fit.
One other very important thing.
Don't forget to use the proportioning valve from the donor truck. It's mounted (usually) on top of the steering box.
Take note of the direction of the lines/ where they enter and exit.
If you don't have it and have to use one of the little aftermarket ones, remember it goes on the rear brake lines and the front of the master cylinder always goes to the rear brakes and the back of the master cylinder goes to the front brakes. It can end up looking like a snake pit but make sure you've got them routed right or ................................. :oops:

, well, you know.
About the only other thing I'd suggest from the description you gave for your project is to put 3-point belts in the cab and maybe some time down the road, relocate the gas tank.
Keep on making it the way you want it.
U@ss

dotcentral · Post by **dotcentral** » January 22, 2007, 12:09 pm

Thanks for the info Uncle Skip. I should have mentioned I did the same swap on my 71 F100 last summer, using info gathered from FTE, fordification, and other places. My 71 has the engine and trans removed, so I could stand right in the engine bay to do it and I stuck the prop valve on the frame where the old brake line junction box was. The 66 has the engine still in it, so I'm doing like you suggested, putting the prop valve on the steering box.

I do have a tube bender, great thing to have. I have problems flaring the ends, using the $25 cheapie flaring kit is probably the cause of most of it.

Uncle Skip · Post by **Uncle Skip** » January 22, 2007, 12:18 pm

You can usually borrow a tube flairing tool from one of the local parts houses. Try AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc and see if they have a good one.
Also, be sure to chamfer the inside and outside of the tube when you cut it. You don't have to take very much off, just smooth the sharp edges.
U@ss

BikerDude · Post by **BikerDude** » January 22, 2007, 2:49 pm

I too had mixed results with the double flaring tools. Seemed to want to shift off to one side or the other. A drop of lube and patience helped. A loop in the lines running from the MC to the Prop Valve gives you a little wiggle room as well. I used a bug spray can to bend my tubing around. Made a nice loop and was just the right size and wasn't so tight it wanted to crush the tubing. I replaced all of the tubing in my 66 as I installed an entire 75 F-150 brake system.

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » January 22, 2007, 5:11 pm

These work great for occasional use. I've had one for years, or somebody has it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... umber=3755