Carb advice

nuwave · Post by **nuwave** » February 13, 2007, 7:23 pm

My truck was running real rich and like a dog. I rebuilt the carb and she still runs like a piece of &^% even after trying everthing in the Factory manual. What is a suggested replacement? I don't mine spending money in this case, but do not want to change the manifold. Brands and sources would be much appreciated.

banjopicker66 · Post by **banjopicker66** » February 13, 2007, 7:55 pm

Try changing your plugs.
I learned this the hard way, that raw gasoline can permanently ruin a plug, even brand new ones, and no amount of heat or running will restore them.
If your carb was running rich, especially if the power valve was leaking, then you may very well need new plugs.

Rustbucket · Post by **Rustbucket** » February 14, 2007, 9:11 am

I have the very same problem. I have a 351w ,has a new cab. still running rich ,don`t know what to do next. Thanks for the info. I`ll try changing the plugs too.

Post by **Greg D** » February 14, 2007, 10:01 am

Are either of you running a non stock fuel pump? Aftermarket pumps frequently have higher pressure and usually need a fuel pressure regulator to keep from pushing the gas right past the needle & seat. Banjo's advice is definately right there too.

Rustbucket · Post by **Rustbucket** » February 14, 2007, 10:32 am

My fuel pump is stock. I took the motor out of a 1985 E-350 with california emissions. I disconnected the emission components. I thought maybe I blocked off something I shouldn`t have.

nuwave · Post by **nuwave** » February 14, 2007, 10:39 am

yes on the stock fuel pump. tried new plugs..no dice. they, as the other plugs were gas soaked. what is really weird is if the idle air screws are totally closed(clockwise) , which should make the engine run lean and tend to stall it, it still is runs rich and idle speed does not change.

my carb does not have an anti-stall dashpot, as seen in many pictures I've seen. not sure if it is missing or never there. it is a manual choke.

maybe i should fuel inject the beast!

Rustbucket · Post by **Rustbucket** » February 14, 2007, 11:24 am

Sorry nuwave. I didnt mean to interupt your thread, sound like we have the same problem.

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » February 14, 2007, 11:30 am

A few things to check. Floats have been known to be deffective and leak, causing flooding. Weak spark caused by weak coil can cause similar problems. If the engine has backfired even one time, you should check the power valve. Easy enough to tell. will be gas in the bowl cover. Excessive fuel pressure can cause the problem even on an original pump. Trash in the fuel, can hold the needle open on the seat. In line fuel filter is a good thing regardless.

Carb screw turned all the way in means there is something wrong somewhere. Roughly adjustement screws should end up about 3/4 to 1 1/2 turns open.

An additional problem you may have witha the 351w intall, is it may require more voltage to the ignition, over the stock. If the ignition was installed with stock wiring, then it has a built in resister wire from the ignition switch. You may need to bypass this and run 12 volts. Fuel must have a hot enough spark to burn right.

Rich

Rustbucket · Post by **Rustbucket** » February 14, 2007, 12:02 pm

I purposely installed a resistor wire, I thought I needed it since the original van had it. I will start there ,and change the coil. Shouldnt the coil have a resistor built in?

nuwave · Post by **nuwave** » February 14, 2007, 8:44 pm

After playing a little more with the carb, I got it to run better, until it gets up to temp. Idles ok, dies when I drive. Plugs are black and sooty, but not soaked with gas as before. So it's got to be a combo of elec/carb

Since coil and plug wires look old, I'll change mine out too. The carb must have other issues. After looking at a parts explosion in a book, I find I am missing parts. Think I'll also get a reman stock carb too. If all of this dont fix it, I'm goin to a mechanic!

Thanks for the replies, I'll let u know how it goes.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » February 14, 2007, 10:43 pm

Dave,bad or out of adjustment points are a possible cause as well.the carb is generally the last thing to set, after all the other things are correct.
also you have a 292 which means solid lifters that also must be adjusted so your valves are working right.i think this could be partly your problem.

bobenhotep · Post by **bobenhotep** » February 15, 2007, 7:27 am

i leaned out my 223 by using a pcv valve for a 390 police interceptor. i always run the highest flowing pcv i can get away with anyway