Slick 60's

Hello all, been busy so I haven't been visiting the site lately. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone new what shocks I should use for the rear of my 66 short bed. I lowered it about 4 inches all the way around. The fronts stay in the original mounting location but the backs need to be shorter. Anyone done this before and know what I should use?

I need to get shocks too for mine now that it's lowered. I was thinking of those Edelbrock EAS or whatever. Look like a well thought out shock. I'd be interested in what others are using too.

If you can wait until say monday I can get the DJM part numbers for ya to order off of summit. I figured all the shock lenghts back when I ordered my stuff to lower my truck.

Heres something to make your ride better. It really helped mine, drives a lot smoother. Put a extra set of shocks in front. I have four shocks up there. I saw it in a truckin mag back it the 80s. you can see it at

http://groups.msn.com/slick60sfordfseri ... otoID=5791

Easy to do, look at my pictures at the old site under second owner wills. If anyone is interested send me an email. The article stated it would make it smoother and would help with tire wear. I think it does both from what have seen.

BILSTIEN !

no need for double shocks or anything like that. The Edelbrock is a cheap knock off of the Bilstien shock sold for more.

I can set you guys up with a set of four shocks for around $275 or so. Just let me know if you need stock length or lowered.

Been awhile since I bought some shocks but $275 sounds a little high for four. I can remember putting 4 monroe's on my truck for under a "C" note! Am I getting old or have I just lost my mind and can't remember right!

Willy you get what you pay for.....Wally world shocks or the real deal....

Garbz

Maybe I just don't hit enough bumps!

I use Gabriel Max-Trol shocks on my 92. Much improved ride over the cheap crap that was on there.

Bilsteins for less than E-Brocks!!! I might hit you up on that Steve. It will be a couple weeks before I'm ready to order though.

Never heard of bilstein. And I have potholes where I live. Some may think its crazy to have 4 up front but I really don't care.I put those on in the late 80s. Before it was like riding in a log truck. Now I know you guys make your living on suspension but I have had really great luck with this setup. I use to have a bad problem with tire wear. That was caused by the way they went up and down and in and out due to the twin I beam design. Now they wear evenly. And I did have new kingpins and new bushing everywhere on the front end. And it went from feeling like I was riding in a log truck to feel like I was riding in a LTD. And I only paid about 25 bucks at napa years ago for those shocks. And they are still holding up. The article that was in truckin explains it better than I can. If you haven't road in one of these setups you can't imagine the difference. As far as getting what you pay for thats true sometimes. I had a caviler one time that was the same body as a Caddy cimmeron or something. Mine drove just as fine as that Caddy but for a whole lot less. I will stick with my setup. Its worked well for me for almost 20 years now.

It's ok that you never heard of Bilstien. They are only used by Formula 1, NASCAR, SCCA, Rally, and Off Road to original equipment on BMW, Ferrari, Jaguar, MercedesBenz, Porsche, Subaru, Toyota, GM, Ford, and Chrysler vehicles.

They pioneered the monotube design which is far more effective at dampening suspension movement than the dual tube design. This design allows for much larger dividing piston sometimes more than double other manufacturers.

What you describe to me when you add an additional shock to your suspension is you are lacking from dampening. The shocks you are probably using have inadequate valving and ability to control the wheel. A lot of shock manufacturers do this because their designs tend to be simple and crude. For them to firm up the valving would mean harshness. So instead they open things up a bit to let you float around a bit. So adding two is going to double up on the dampening.

www.bilstein.com

Oh and the Cimmeron was a Cavalier. That was just GM's horrible attempt at Badge engineering and they hoped that the public was gulible enough to not notice that the Cimmeron rode like a bargain basement Cavalier and suffered from the same lackluster engineering and build quality. And just buy the "cheap" Caddy just because of the name. Kinda like buying "Kleenex" or "Q-tips".

A fourteen dollar shock may work for a a while but will not outperform or outlast a shock in the range of the Bilstein. Sorry.

Shame the Gabriel Adjustable E is not still available. We used them on the race car, tow truck and family car. They were large 5/8" shaft and large piston hydraulic. They went away when the gas shocks came out.

They were large 5/8" shaft

LOL, it's funny how peoples perceptions of quality work. I could understand using a large diameter shaft on something like a long travel coil over where resistance to bending forces inputed by the coil springs would affect things, but on a common everyday shock absorber/dampener all that large diameter shaft is doing is taking up effective area on rebound. And rebound is where most shock manufacturers put most of their wheel dampening. After all, the only function of the shaft is to move the divider piston inside the fluid volume. It isn't like there is a lot of load other than compression and tension.

Now, if you are bending shock shafts that means there is a problem with shock mounting. You are either bottoming out the shock before the suspension or the shock is binding on the mounts. Not a problem of shock manufacturer.

Elpolacko: Thx for the recommendation on Bilstein shocks, and the connection to their web page. Unfortunately their Adobe cataloque does not specify Bilstein model for Ford Slicks. Can you recommend model # suited to both front & rear for a '66 F250 that will be used for light-duty? Thx. Jeff

The oversize pistons and 5/8" shafts are the only way the Adjustabls E came. Primarily intended for circle track racing. And yes you sometimes bent shafts on coventional style shocks or blew pistons. We adapted them to other uses with their adjustability. They cured a lot of problems at the time. I had Bilsteins on my Lightning. Good shock but a little light weight for severe duty use. The Bilsteins designed for NASCAR are very much like the Penskes. If you look at the cut away diagrams of all three shocks, the Bilsteins and Penskes both got their heritage from the Adjustable E shocks from Gabriel. The adjustable E shock could also be purchased with heim joint ends or to mount in the OEM location. The new race shocks are so infinately adjustable because you can take them apart and revalve the shock. Makes you wonder where the technology will end.

Bilstein builds custom shocks for thier dealers. You will not find the part numbers I have on any of the factory listed publications.

Usually when a manufacturer stops making a particular product it is because it was unpopular or was replaced by a newer (better?) product. There are plenty of adjustable shocks still available. I used to carry AFCO shocks. Very good units but if you guys think a standard set of Bilsteins are pricey, hoo-boy you would have an apaplectic fit at the AFCO price.

Racing technology rarely fits street useage anymore. A shock set up to run at Daytona will shurely beat the crap out of you at 35 MPH in your daily driver. Hell, what works one day at a track won't work the next day. Totally different story and a moot point because a track car/truck sees a whole lot of abuse you would never see on the street. But, except for extreme instances most shock failures track or street are still contributed to improper installation practices.

Now then Wylie, Arn't you glad you asked!!!!

Uh, what was my question again????

Wylie wrote:Uh, what was my question again????