Well I got the f250 home Saturday. Good news is that It was driven 110 miles on its own power. I have lots of little bad news'. The most critical right now is he shifter. Thank goodness for the torque of the monster 352, I made it most of the way starting off in 3rd and shifting to 4th. 2nd to 3rd was almost impossible to find. 3rd to 4th was bad enough. At least I know what the truck is capable of. I pulled the hump cover off, and it appears I have a New process trans. Circle on the case kinda looks like a gear with NP in the middle. The shifter is really sloppy. In forth, I can rotate the shifter almost a 1/3 of a turn toward the drivers side. Reverse is almost impossible to locate. How do I get the shifter out of the top of the trans? Any suggestions.
Thanks
1966 f250 4 speed trans help
- F7BIGJOB
- Posts: 1379
- Joined: March 14, 2010, 7:59 am
- Location: West Greenwich, Rhode Island & Providence Plantations

First off,
Check out this link:
http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=
F7BIGJOB
-Steve
1965 F-250 4x4 Flareside


-Steve
1965 F-250 4x4 Flareside


-
64shortbed
- Posts: 291
- Joined: April 15, 2010, 12:25 am
- Location: Paso Robles, Ca
I'm not familiar with the NP(435?), but my shifting woes were cured for about $100 by a local machine shop. They fabricated a new pivot pin and bored the hole in the top case to fit. then they remachined the ball to fit the new pin. It works great now. Before was much like you described where my cane would rotate horizontaly so much that I had to hold it just right to get it into gear with out grinding.
-don
'64 F100 262-I6

'64 F100 262-I6

-
Mild Mitch
- Posts: 9
- Joined: September 8, 2010, 12:53 pm
- Location: Redding, CA
I'm new here but I'm going to put out my .02, hope it helps.
Well I just went through a fix for this too. Though I have a T-98 and I'm not sure if the Trans. top or tower are that similar. I'll have to look the NP up and compare.
But here is what I did. Remember mine is a T-98 trans .
Under the collar holding the lever in place, the tower has a pin placed through (horizontally) a hole in it, which engages in a vertical slot in the shifters ball. Clear as mud already right?
Remove the collar holding the shifter in place by unscrewing it. There is a spring under it for tension. Pull the shift lever up and out. Don't let that little pin that is through the threaded area of the tower drop.
If you pull the stick, you'll see. Be careful not to let the pin drop into the trans!
The slot has become worn and wallowed out. Maybe the pin has wear too. This is what causes the problem.
The fix...
Find a drill bit that will slide into the hole snugly. Not tight. Hopefully it will also mate to the width of the slot somewhat.
You're going to cut the shank or smooth part of the bit off to the length needed to engage the slot in the shifter. This is your new pin. Drill bits are hardened material so they will hold up better than mild steel rod.
I then TIG welded the worn edges of the shifters slot and built it up with a little weld metal. Filed it to shape, a smooth slot with parallel sides and sharp edges.
Put it back together and no sloppy shift lever.
Well I just went through a fix for this too. Though I have a T-98 and I'm not sure if the Trans. top or tower are that similar. I'll have to look the NP up and compare.
But here is what I did. Remember mine is a T-98 trans .
Under the collar holding the lever in place, the tower has a pin placed through (horizontally) a hole in it, which engages in a vertical slot in the shifters ball. Clear as mud already right?
Remove the collar holding the shifter in place by unscrewing it. There is a spring under it for tension. Pull the shift lever up and out. Don't let that little pin that is through the threaded area of the tower drop.
If you pull the stick, you'll see. Be careful not to let the pin drop into the trans!
The slot has become worn and wallowed out. Maybe the pin has wear too. This is what causes the problem.
The fix...
Find a drill bit that will slide into the hole snugly. Not tight. Hopefully it will also mate to the width of the slot somewhat.
You're going to cut the shank or smooth part of the bit off to the length needed to engage the slot in the shifter. This is your new pin. Drill bits are hardened material so they will hold up better than mild steel rod.
I then TIG welded the worn edges of the shifters slot and built it up with a little weld metal. Filed it to shape, a smooth slot with parallel sides and sharp edges.
Put it back together and no sloppy shift lever.
Mild Mitch
Mitchell Motor Works
Anderson, California
1962 F250 Uni
2000 F100 Lightning
1951 F5 car hauler project
1931 Ford Roadster
Mitchell Motor Works
Anderson, California
1962 F250 Uni
2000 F100 Lightning
1951 F5 car hauler project
1931 Ford Roadster
