Slick 60's

Hello, I have a 65 F100 Slick with 5 x 5.5 bolt pattern, the tires I have are newer and I would prefer to keep them.

The tire's I currentely have are (Front) P255/75/R15 & (Rear) LT235/75/R15

I want to replace my wheels only and need to know if this wheel will fit the truck and if the tire will work on this wheel?

If someone could take a look and let me know what they think I would appreciate it. I just don't want to order the wheels and find out they are wrong.

P.S. If you are running the Cragar 409B on your slick I would love to see a few photos.

Thanks

(Wheel Info)
Cragar 409B Part Number:409B585537 Size:15x8

Part Description:15x8 Mirage 409S Black

Bolt Pattern:5x5.5

Offset:-19 Backspacing (In)3 3/4"

Load Rating:2200 Weight:20

Cap Part Number:CR14250000-1

http://www.cragarwheel.com/products16-3 ... irageBlack

I suspect that the reason you have wider tires on the front than the rear is that the 255's would not clear adequately on the rear with the current wheels. The offset and back-spacing may help this situation, if it in fact exists, or it may worsen it. The 235's are known to work fine; when you get to more than 10" section width, it can become a challenge.
I have ran 275/15's on my uni, which now has 31.50/10/15's on OEM later Bronco wheels, others have stated they are unable to make 255's clear.
My '65 LB has a mid-seventy's axle which results in meager clearance for anything in excess of 245 section width, even with later OEM wheels.
Best bet, IMO, would be to find a tire shop such as Discount Tire to take the effort to mount and test the combination at all positions. Some tire shops have a "fit gauge" which mounts to the hub and checks radial and axial clearances with actually installing a tire and wheel assembly.
Even if someone has ran that exact tire/wheel configuration, there is no guarantee it will work on your application, even section width may vary slightly from tire to tire.

Paul

i tried 255s on the rear of my uni, had 8" wide wheels and they were too close to the insides of the wheelwell


these 235s were perfect

3.5 inches of back spacing will work fine. 255's will work fine as well.

Tnks for the help.

Well I think I am learning a Leson the hard way!

So after i posted this thread, I seen an add on CL 4 tires & wheels for $300 and they were currentley on a 66 Ford f100. I thought they looked cool and since they came off the very similar truck that this was awesome.

But, I went to put them on and seen my wheels have 2 locks on each wheel and I don't have the key to remove that locking lug nut.

So i took it to the local tire place and they said that the tires on the wheels were over 10 years old and they could not chage them for me. They said i should buy new tires.

So, we went indside and he looked up the tires on the wheels I bought for the back and he said that they can't find the 295/50/R16 that are on that wheel and that he can't even find anything close. He said the 225/60R/16 were availabe for the front.

I really do not know alot about tires and did not even think to look at the date when i bought the wheels.

What i thought was an easy swap and would make my truck look cooler with a littel effort has really become a hassel.

I hope anyone that is buying wheels or tires can learn from this.

Thanks

those wheel locks are really soft. i broke a set off with a chisel. if you damage the studs they can be replaced.

Ok, thanks for the help.

What abouth the tires being to old? They look way better than what's on the truck now andhe even said they were much newer. But he also said anything over 10 years is unsafe. I really think they look good and have alot of life. I do not see any cracks or dryspots.

Thanks

RONC65SLICK wrote:Ok, thanks for the help.

What abouth the tires being to old? They look way better than what's on the truck now andhe even said they were much newer. But he also said anything over 10 years is unsafe. I really think they look good and have alot of life. I do not see any cracks or dryspots.

Thanks

then take them somewhere else, avoid big chain stores.
my back tires are way over 10 years old. i drove them 3500 miles with a hefty load from Alaska to Utah over some pretty rough roads.
but i put them on the wheels myself on a friends tire machine then took them to a small tire/repair shop for balancing.
they have no cracks or rot on them.

I got Cragars, not the ones you're looking at, but I got em!



some day they'll even get rubber! 275/40/17's They'll fit but I have a ton of back spacing, I'm running the same on my Mustang right now so I did a trial fit to make sure.

There's nothing wrong 10 year old tires, they were just trying to sell you new tires IMHO. My dent has tires WAY over 10 years old and I load the hell out of it regularly.

RONC65SLICK,

I agree with ICEMAN, if your tires don't have any major cracks or rot, I'd locate someone or a smaller service garage that will re-mount your 10-year old tires. If the tires are dry-rotted to the point where the tire bead breaks apart during the un-mounting / re-mounting process, then I'd scrap them.

FYI: In the past 10-15 yrs, tire manufacturers have been pushed by the Gov't to establish 'use-up by' dates for their tires. As a result, many, if not all, of the tire manufacturers have established such limits. These 'use-up by' dates are primarily for warranty purposes..... which also includes "intended tire performance qualities". Realize too, that not all the 'use-up by' dates established by the various tire manufacturers are not the same; some manufacturers have a recommended 'use-up by' date of 10-yr, 5-yr, 6-yr, etc. after their respective build date.

SO -- if you (or anyone else) intends to buy NEW tires, I would HIGHLY suggest you do some research on the particular manufacturer of your tire choice and:
1) determine what they recommend as a tire 'use-up by' time period;

2) determine how to read their particular manufacturer code that is stamped into their tires, so you can confirm the manufacture date of the tires you buy; check this out: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/ ... D=10398365& ...or you may still need to go to your tire manufacturer's web site to obtain the information you seek.

3) and lastly, I'd recommend that when you order your tires, tell the sales person that you want new tires that have a 'build date' of no older than 6 months from your purchase date - and that you will be checking each tire's build stamp date prior to paying for them.

Some of the lower-priced or sale tires are because they are older tires, maybe sitting on a shelf for a few years already. For instance, according to their tire warranty book, Firestone does not recommend you run their tires longer than 10 years beyond their manufacture date, regardless of the amount of tread remaining or the date of purchase. Refer to page 14: http://www.firestonecompleteautocare...l-warranty.pdf

Yep, I ran into this issue:
- I told my sales guy what I expected.
- He said, "SURE, NO PROBLEM".
- He called me to say the tires were in.
- I went to his store and looked at each tire code (as I said I would).
- I determined that the brand-new tires were THREE YEARS old already! He looked at the tires and agreed, they weren't what I asked for. I told them to send them away & get me tires that were manufactured no more than 6 months earlier - as I asked for. Four days later they called me again and said they had them in. Now had I not asked and he had agreed to getting me 6 month old tires, I'm not too sure he would have sent them back and got me newer tires.

I was not going to buy "old" tires when I was paying "new" tire prices.

BarnieTrk