my shipwrecked '63

[9Fingers]

Shipwrecked is looking good! Hope you can overcome the engine knock soon. I like the hood kit, would you recommend it for others?

Bradshaw

[greentruck]

Glad to see you giving the slick some love,thought the M38 had stold the show. Slicks and jeeps are pretty dang cool.

[ThinLizzy13]

It’ll be a pain, but recheck your valve lash.

[shipwrecked]

Im pretty sure I have my transmission linkage backwards.
When I put it in 2... it goes to Reverse. When I put it in 3, it is 1.

I spent time today chasing this mystery sound. still cant find it. I am going to drop the pan and check my bearings. I also have to check and see if it is the rear main that is leaking or if it is just at the sump. The forward sump leaks too.

for the first time in 7 years and 11 months of owning shipwrecked, i drove it on the street under its own power- with everything mostly working.
My speedometer is whacked! i used my original cable, and had replaced both the gears- but i should go ahead and replace them all now.


See the youtube for the video showing the trials of today and the upcoming troubleshooting to do.

[ThinLizzy13]

Pretty cool that you finally got to move it under its own power! That shift linkage can be a bear to adjust. I just watched your video and I’m not sure if I missed it, but it looked like you didn’t have the vac gauge hooked up? It can be a good insight into if your issue is a valve/rocker issue or point towards your bottoms end. I’d do that before dropping the pan .02.

[shipwrecked]

No updates. Still lurk around though.

Leaving on my last deployment with this unit. Will be back in a few months with either a transfer order or a retirement letter.

This ship is killing me slowly.


You all take care- see you in spring.

[shipwrecked]

It is time I start a paper notebook on my projects.
So I know where I am, and what I leave off on when I deploy again.

Today I am going to figure out these shift links.


My last attempt at this, I found that my shifting pattern was completely backwards. So= I will see if i can hook those rods up the other way.

I went out and got the battery charged, and got fuel moving to the carb from the mustang gas tank i installed way back.

I started the engine, and i didnt hear the tick that i had previously. But if i started to put a little throttle on, it comes back. So i am thinking it is a timing issue. I dont have the knowledge for this part of this build aparently. If I did, I would be driving shipwrecked by now.

I have a build book i started today for the jeep too. Too much going on all at once it feels. I am going to skip the jeep projects this inport i believe. Its the rain season, and I need my grass to grow out by the jeep. So i am headed into the garage again.

[shipwrecked]

Pulled the oil pan. Started inspecting all the rod caps and then found the forward crank cap finger tight.
Whiskey tango foxtrot!

Way back like two years ago, remember the exhaust valve seized due to the oil tube slipping and the valve didn’t get lubricated? My buddy Jim had pulled the cap off #1 piston, but I didn’t know he pulled the #1crank cap too! I never torqued it again. I know for a fact I torqued it when I assembled the engine in 2017!!!

The engine just wasn’t working right since that exhaust valve and subsequent cylinder head bolt fiasco.







Here’s what I’m gonna do... tongue it back down. Put the pan back on. Put some oil in it. Run a compression test and a leak down test. Go from there.


It’s been hard to focus on my truck. Burn out. Work. Life. Shit happens.

Let’s keep moving. I am sailing on deployment in a few weeks still.

[shipwrecked]

I did some compression readings on all the cylinders yesterday. They were all over the road.



#1 80
#2 85
#3 105
#4 100
#5 100
#6 70 I tried this one a few more times and came up with 30 twice!

I did a leak down test on each cylinder too- I was getting leak by into the sump from a few of them, but the best was #6 which was weird.
Readings were all over the road.

Where do I go from here on this little 223? Take the head off, check the pistons. Check the rings. I can buy new bearings, rings and all that- may take a few days to get.
I am also going to pull the timing chain cover. I know back in July 2017 I made sure to count all the teeth between the dots just like the manual states. I just want to be sure it is right.

I have a leak in the rear main seal too. Which is weird.



While reviewing some video i made yesterday, in the leak down test portion, its like the pollen storm in the view of the camera. In person I couldn't see it. (I'm on Benadryl anyway cause I'm allergic and not okay) I'll post this video when i am done with it.

[ThinLizzy13]

Damn April that really sucks. Have you checked your valve lash? Not sure if maybe that could throw off your compression readings...good luck and I hope it goes back together smoothly for you...

[longcabjohn]

since this engine has never been run the ring probably have never seated. If it was mine, I would put it together and run the hell out of it.


Johnny

[greentruck]

Sorry about your luck. This kind of thing happens and has happend to me over the years. Did you check all your bearing clearances with plastigauge when you assembled the engine the first time? If not do it . Also make sure your cam bearings where installed properly so there oiling right. Make sure your cam thrust bearing is not letting your cam walk. Then look heavy at your valve train ,make sure your lifters are getting oil and your valve train has the right adjustments. Like long john said your rings are not seated yet so don't worry about your compresion yet. It's hard to tell from your video where the noise is coming from. I have heard some noise coming from the flywheel rubbing inside the bell housing before ,maybe check that as well. If there are no cracks in the head or block then the head gasket is hopefuly the cause of the coolant leak. Good luck with the truck. Also looking forward to seeing that jeep ready to hit the trail.

[shipwrecked]

So I’m just not sure which direction to go on my engine, loss of power, it has a tick....

Here’s what I just did to move forward. Gonna take me some time as I’m leaving again on deployment AGAiN.... I spent 200 days of 2021 at sea...

Found the 300 distributor I got from that dude up in Fredericksburg. Don’t know if it’s any good, but will check it out.
I bought a new 223 distributor just to try this first.(with my pertronix)
Will check the gap with a feeler gauge cause I just don’t trust that plastic piece they sent. I don’t have the right feel.
I bought an oil pump for a 64 since the shaft is different than mine so I can try adapting that 300

I also will drain the fuel tank(it’s been sitting almost a year)

Will pull the head. Going to recheck torque throughout crank.
Will pull timing chain cover. Check the chain. Replace the oil seal.
Gotta pull transmission again.i have oil leaking at the flywheel cover, so either trans is leaking or the rear min seal is. I’m leaning towards the transmission as I think the rebuild shop didn’t use permeated sealant on the threads.

Lots of stuff to consider.

Did I have a vacuum leak that is causing my loss of power...possible,

Is my flapper in the exhaust causing issues. Probably. (The shaft is there, flapper there, but the spring is gone, and I wired it open. reconsidering my exhaust manifold. My Jeep has a similar set up, and they sell replacement systems. I can probably adapt that Jeep style to this f100.

Leaving in a few weeks. Too cold in garage with door open, so I am going to do all this in april when I get back after dropping the ship off at the CG Yard.

Still hovering around. Just too much going on that is pulling my attention away.





Still have stuff sitting around
64 Steele’s outies (4) and caps



Various extra like door panel trim, window trim, dash trim

[shipwrecked]

Am a week away from sailing a shakedown (wtf- I’ve only been home 6 weeks) so I was cleaning the garage up for a professional foundation company to come and fix a void I have under my garage. I got tinkering on the truck too.

I drained my gas tank. Souls have done this months ago. Sure smells like turned fuel.


Of course I made a giant mess.

I knew the flexi hose was supposed to be temporary, but it’s lasted longer than any relationship I’ve ever had. BTW, head had that rusty stuff... goo... I only ran green coolant in there, which makes me wonder where it came from. Maybe the engine passages. Either way, I’m leaning toward a cleanout again.


The thermostat housing is clocked towards driver side. The radiator is a 63 replacement which is on the passenger side. I am looking into options.




I did find some swivel styles for Ford- doesn’t say if it will fit a 223. I guess I’m not sure if the bolt patterns are the same.



Also been looking at custom silicon radiator hoses over at Pegasus.https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/advca ... eoQAvD_BwE

[My wife's nightmare]

Not sure if you've shipped out yet but its hard to keep the gunk out of cooling systems that contain large pieces of cast iron. Driving them helps but it takes lots of cleaning when you rebuild a 50-60 year old engine that has already been rusting inside for that long! Anyway, I like the silicone hoses and notice they have red which could be very complimentary to your engine compartment. Best wishes on your deployment, looking forward to a safe return for you!

[shipwrecked]

Haven't left just yet- shakedown tomorrow. I am hoping we dont sink before we even leave.

I am going to place an order for the silicone hoses when i get back from the shakedown.

I really need to force clean the passages again, and get the block brush out.

[shipwrecked]

I'm headed to the ship- going for my 7th war patrol in the last 2.5 years.... why I say "war patrol"..... we are stars in this show called "WTF was that!?" as something is sure to break and be a scary situation.

I am not going to downplay soldiers and Marines who have seen combat to come back with some PTSD. I swear- this job has given me a high anxiety and it is starting to shake me down to the boots.
We are sailing on equipment made by the lowest bidder who lost the contract for sub par work, and that is 40 years old. Parts are impossible to find and the government has been on a continuing resolution since the FY started. We have been given 1/4 the budget we normally need to operate and I have no parts because we can't pay for them.

Will check in again when I get back in April. Hell- may be sooner if we break again.
Later!

[shipwrecked]

spent time in the garage with my ass side to the rain with the garage door open.

I am bringing it back to basics to take notes, document what i am doing and figure out why i had this weird ticking and loss of power.


I took the harmonic balancer off. I must have dented the shit out of this timing chain cover when I was assembling the engine 5 years ago.
(remember I haven't been able to drive this much {a few times up the street and back} in the last few years)


I was in a little hurry 5 years ago. I remember assembling parts to this engine at night in New Jersey before I had to pack the truck onto my trailer and move to Virginia.

I spent some time beating the dent back out, and resealed it.




checked my timing. its right.



looking at my damper,
the keyway is what I would see on the photo from the tech pub. However, if I were to put that on my crank, the keyway is about 180 out.


There is only one way to put the crank sprocket on because it has it's own keyway.




Something just doesn't look right here compared to the photo in the pub. but the pub could be generic for a ford just to show timing.


There is a pointer on the timing chain cover. Does not match up with the damper.
I had that damper rebuilt by Damper Doctor a few years ago. It has had maybe 2 hours tops of run time on it since 5 years ago.

What i intend to do now is take the intake, exhaust and head off.
I want to verify everything. I have to use new gasket kit anyway. otherwise spend 100 on 4 gaskets and a whole kit only is 150.

[shipwrecked]

so looking around ford truck enthusiasts sight, and i found this photo.

The crank key is in the same position as mine- timing same as mine.

Maybe mine is not wrong?


I don't believe the damper slipped either. It was redone by Damper Doctors and i checked old photos of when it was received back 6 years ago- looks the same now except paint wore off.

[shipwrecked]

I decided to take the head off.



#3 has a nice pool of oil. on the gasket too- it had a lot of oil in that exhaust valve corner.


a while back I had purchased a replacement 223 distributor. It needed it! I took the old one, press back and forth on the shaft and sure enough- clunk clunk clunk!
Switched all my pertronix over after this photo.

It was easier to install in the engine that the old worn out one! Like lightning fast compared to the old one.

I had Damper Doctor do the rebuild on this damper. it had all the timing marks covered up with paint and I never saw them.
But- now that i sanded them off- you can see them. The keyway installed and I put the damper on. When it is at the TDC on the damper stamps, the #1 is actually at bottom.

I put the MSD Sticker on this and at 0, I am at TDC.


see what I see?



Also- what should I do about that dang Heat Riser? The stud it has is so worn out that I can not put a new spring on it.
I just wired it in position to shove all exhaust down to the exhaust pipe.


I am sharing all this because you need to see why I broke up with my truck for a long time. Now- the abusive relationship is rekindled.