1966 F-350 verywrongbed

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sproino
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1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by sproino »

Greetings fellow bipeds! Also, a big thanks to the Admin for letting me in.

Last weekend my wife agreed not to leave me if I bought a certain old truck. We'd had a very bad experience with a 1971 F-100 that turned her off from that generation, specifically, and made her wary of old trucks in general.

Image

As you can see from the photo, it has a dentside bed on it. That's something I'll resolve eventually. The rear bumper is also on the front of the vehicle. The seller admitted to the truck sitting for eighteen months because of an 'ignition issue'.

My hometown is rather unpleasant towards project vehicles, and we don't have a garage, so I needed something I could get running quickly. Their requirements are that it is able to move under its own power and has plates. That's a target I think I can hit pretty quickly.

I'm going to keep this thread up to date with my plans and progress. I'm channeling my obsessively organized wife and making this something of a to-do list, as well.

Since the vehicle arrived the other day, we've changed the oil, fuel pump, carburetor, distributor cap and rotor, breaker points, condenser, and several rusted lines. With a fresh battery, we got the vehicle started with a hose in a gas can, as the fuel tank smells rancid.

Before the vehicle can move, I need to...
...clean and seal the gas tank. (I'm thinking a couple of gallons of denatured alcohol in various positions over a couple days to clean out varnish. Then filling it with oxallic acid solution to rid it of rust and give it a mild rust-resistant coating. Finally, I'll either use sloshing from the local airfield or some retail coating to seal the thing up.)
...check the clutch. (It doesn't feel quite right, but I haven't driven stick in two years.)

Before the vehicle can be driven, I need to...
...replace the jammed brake master cylinder. (Convert to two-pot master?)
...replace the rusted and broken brake lines. (There's a clean break on the rear brake lines. That's where the fluid went.)
...source an air filter. (There was a rodent nest in the airbox.)
...bolt down the battery. (we have the parts.)
...fix the parking brake. (The lever won't move.)
...free the choke actuator cable. (Kroil is my friend.)
...check oil levels and quality in the transmission and differential. (The seals and gasket on the differential are weeping.)
...adjust everything having to do with timing and fuel delivery. (It stalls at 700 rpm and might have an intermittent miss on the passenger side bank.)

Before the vehicle can be driven safely, I need to...
...locate and repair the intermittant short behind the instrument cluster. (It clicks, and the ammeter twitches.)
...fix the horn.
...adjust the brakes. (A safe guess, though I haven't checked them.)
...replace the fuel filler neck. (Heard a story from my small engine mechanic about him filling up one of these trucks when he worked at a service station as a boy. 35 gallons into the nineteen gallon tank. When the guy opened his door, it all spilled out. Then they called the fire department.)
...add seat belts! (Legal without it, but not wise.)
...get the tailights and brakelights working. (Headlights & turn signals work already.)
...replace the bald and dry-rotted front tires. (The rears are about half used up.)
...put a fire extinguisher in the truck.

Before the vehicle can be driven routinely, I need to...
...replace the headliner. (It keeps grabbing my hair.)
...fix the drivers side door. (You have to pull back the lever inside while depressing the exterior button, and pulling really hard to get it open currently. It will not open any other way.)
...check the health of the valves.

Any advice would be very appreciated. I think I've come up with everything that has to be done, but if you can think of anything else, please let me know. Also, if you have any recommendations on how to do this, I would also like to hear them, though I have been reading the Tips & Tricks section.
My wife and I are proud owners of:
1997 Ford Taurus GL (his)
1997 Lincoln Mark VIII (hers)
1974 Lincoln Continental
1966 Ford F-350 verywrongbed
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jkimbrel65
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by jkimbrel65 »

:welcome: from Al. Very impressive to do list.Where are you located? Might be a member close

Mike
I tried being normal once...
was the worst 10 minutes of my life
sproino
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Joined: June 12, 2013, 10:44 pm
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by sproino »

Thank you. I'm in the former Soviet Socialist Republic of New Jersey. We have to be Former, we elected Christie.

jkimbrel65 wrote::welcome: from Al. Very impressive to do list.Where are you located? Might be a member close

Mike
My wife and I are proud owners of:
1997 Ford Taurus GL (his)
1997 Lincoln Mark VIII (hers)
1974 Lincoln Continental
1966 Ford F-350 verywrongbed
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unibody madness
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by unibody madness »

Welcome to the madness
Not sure if denatured alcohol will work, I use lacquer thiner for bad gas.
I vote yes for the dual pot master, and new brake lines all around.
John
Turk build thread at:
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=18944

It does not matter what you think, it only matters what you do about it!
sproino
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by sproino »

Thank you. I'm quite happy to be mad here. I've had good luck with denatured alcohol soaks for generator carbs at work. It's just about the only thing I've found that will cut through the varnish.

The duel pot master is a definite yes, though I have some questions coming up.

unibody madness wrote:Welcome to the madness
Not sure if denatured alcohol will work, I use lacquer thiner for bad gas.
I vote yes for the dual pot master, and new brake lines all around.
John


1) How different is the F-350 master from the F-100 and F-250 masters? All of the how-tos I've seen have been for F-100 and F-250 trucks. Does anybody know what duel pot masters will fit and what else I will need, or should I bring the mess to a parts store and have them haul out parts from the back to compare?

2) Just what is the idle speed for the 352 FE?

3) Would 25' of brake line be enough to re-plumb the truck?

4) Did my truck come with a paper air cleaner or an oil bath? I'd rather have an oil bath. It seems to be that it was converted to paper, but I'm not sure. Does anybody have a good photo of the components of either or both for comparison? If I'm right, where can I find replacement oil bath innards?

5) Do I have to take out the bench seat to get at lower bolts securing the fuel tank?

6) How did a back bumper with towball end up on the front of my truck?
My wife and I are proud owners of:
1997 Ford Taurus GL (his)
1997 Lincoln Mark VIII (hers)
1974 Lincoln Continental
1966 Ford F-350 verywrongbed
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unibody madness
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by unibody madness »

1)not sure but someone will answer, I took a master off an 88 jeep comanche and used a longer plunger I modified.
2) My sons runs about 600 rpm. I would recomend picking up a ford shop manual.
3) 25' would be plenty, I bought the flexible alloy off of ebay
4)I don't know
5)It certainly make things easier.
6)hitch balls are usually mounted on the front of vehicles to help back up trailers or boats into difficult spaces
dont know why your rear bumper is on the front of your truck
Turk build thread at:
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=18944

It does not matter what you think, it only matters what you do about it!
sproino
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by sproino »

The intermittant miss on the passenger-side bank keeps the truck from idling below 700 RPM. I have the service manuals on disc, but I couldn't find the idle speed anywhere. Thanks for putting me straight.

I made some progress on the truck today.

The stuck driver's side door was getting old fast, so I openned the access panel and had a look. The button is supposed to strike a lever, but was hung up next to it. I freed it and it worked,but no sooner did I have the panel closed again than I tested to see if the door was locked and it slid right by again. I'm hoping to be able to make the adjustment without pulling the whole thing apart.

I cleaned all the trash out of the vehicle. Two formerly rodent-infested sun shields, a Star-Ledger from 2005, a couple rags, and the torn seat covers which were extremely dusty. Knocked most of the dust out of the cab and pulled the moss off of the cowl. I also got the tailgate to open, and will sweep out the bed tomorrow.

I shone a flashlight into the fuel tank and couldn't see anything. I rocked the truck a little and heard sloshing. Putting that together with the dry fuel line up front, I figured it had been drained to the sediment-catching level. I threw in seven gallons and a thing of Fuel Medic, only to still have nothing coming out the front line. At this point, I took off the fuel sending unit to find it covered in rust and varnish and a tank filled with what could visually pass for burnt ATF.

One siphon pump later, and the former fuel was happily flowing into a 25 gallon drum. I didn't count on better than twenty-one gallons coming out of a 19 ggallon tank that didn't look full. I've got the drum covered with foil to keep the fumes down until Home Despot is open tomorrow. I'm thinking a couple of five gallon buckets with lids to get the level down, and then handtrucking the drum two blocks to my shop.

I'm now back to my original plan to fix the tank, and need a new sending unit, too.

I've got a five-gallon gas can tied to the front, and I'm going to see if I can get the thing to roll a bit in reverse, then let it back onto its chocks. Autozone was out of steel brake lines, and I'm not paying $2/foot for the Cu Ni Fe stuff.

The oil bath air filter on mine seems irreversibly converted to paper, so I'm talking to some junkyards for a reploacement. My hunt for information on that had me reading NumberDummy's posts on several forums. I have the utmost respect for his knowledge on this.
My wife and I are proud owners of:
1997 Ford Taurus GL (his)
1997 Lincoln Mark VIII (hers)
1974 Lincoln Continental
1966 Ford F-350 verywrongbed
Supercab65
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by Supercab65 »

That bed looks like its from a Super Camper Special. They had a longer wheelbase to help with towing. Because the rear axle was back so far the spare tire was placed behind a bedside panel on the front passenger side of the bed. I think I can see the bulge in the inner sheet metal of the right bedside. That's a pretty rare bed!
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unibody madness
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by unibody madness »

sproino ,
My appologies. I did not mean to offend,or set you straight, sometimes when in a hurry my humor falls a little flat.
I certainly dont blame you on the brake line, they appear to have fallen in love with their product, although to tell you the truth as frugal as I am I would continue to search for the best deal possible on the stuff, it makes brake replacement a breeze compared to the steel line
John
Turk build thread at:
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=18944

It does not matter what you think, it only matters what you do about it!
sproino
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by sproino »

Supercab65 wrote:That bed looks like its from a Super Camper Special. They had a longer wheelbase to help with towing. Because the rear axle was back so far the spare tire was placed behind a bedside panel on the front passenger side of the bed. I think I can see the bulge in the inner sheet metal of the right bedside. That's a pretty rare bed!


That most certainly is a spare-tire compartment. If you know somebody who needs the bed, getting the rightbed on the truck, while not a priority, is something I want to do.

unibody madness wrote:sproino ,
My appologies. I did not mean to offend,or set you straight, sometimes when in a hurry my humor falls a little flat.
I certainly dont blame you on the brake line, they appear to have fallen in love with their product, although to tell you the truth as frugal as I am I would continue to search for the best deal possible on the stuff, it makes brake replacement a breeze compared to the steel line
John


No need to apologize. I meant that you'd set me straight in the best way possible. I wasn't offended in the least. After all, I bought the service manuals with the correct idle speed, among other things, on my mind!

I've never had a problem bending the steel stuff. Is the ferrous nickle-bronze (?) stuff that much better? It only costs twice as much, and I'm planning on using DOT-5 fluid in the new system to keep things tidy in the tubes. If it's worth it, I'll hunt up a good price on it.

I got the choke cable free today with the overnight kroil soak. The truck now starts without hesitation from the gas can strapped to the front.

The drum of bad fuel was emptied into three pails. A business associate of mine has metallic catalysts he sells for stabilizing fuel in outdoor power equipment. I offer them as accessories for the generators I sell. I called him up regarding the spoit fuel, and he was insistant that the catalyst, if given enough time, should get the fuel to the point where it would be useable in a car. I've got one pellet in one of the pails, and I'm hoping for some free fuel to have come with the truck.

The truck looks much better with the algae wiped off of it. The drivers side door which sticks was struck at some point, and remains slightly bent. I still think I can get it working with just a little effort inside the door.

My wife and I removed the fuel tank. It had holes across the back towards the top, so I'm now looking for a replacement. I also found that the back window leaks very slightly towards the passenger side, so I'll have to seal that up.

The clutch does not work. The engine does not disengage, so I can't put the thing in gear. I have never worked on a manual transmission or clutch before, so this is a little daunting. I'm probibly going to call my grandfather, who had a 63, for advice.

My new round of questions are,
1) What does the rotation on the lamp switch do?
2) Are the instruments on the dash supposed to be lit?
3) What sane person would order a truck in NJ without a heater?

To recap, and with updates:

Before the vehicle can move, I need to...
...fix the clutch so I can get the thing into gear.

Before the vehicle can be driven, I need to...
...replace the jammed brake master cylinder. (Definitely going with a dual reservoir.)
...replace the rusted and broken brake lines.
...get a junkyard oil-bath air cleaner.
...bolt down the battery.
...fix the parking brake.
...install a new fuel tank.
...replace the tank-to-pump fuel line.
...check oil levels and quality in the transmission and differential.
...adjust everything having to do with timing and fuel delivery.

Before the vehicle can be driven safely, I need to...
...locate and repair the intermittant short behind the instrument cluster.
...fix the horn.
...adjust the brakes.
...replace the fuel filler neck.
...add seat belts!
...get the tailights and brakelights working.
...replace the bald and dry-rotted front tires.
...fix the windshield wipers.

Before the vehicle can be driven routinely, I need to...
...replace the headliner.
...fix the drivers side door.
...check the health of the valves.

One day I'd like to...
...have the right bed on it.
...repaint it the original dark green.
...put an overdrive on it.
...attempt to run it on woodgas?
My wife and I are proud owners of:
1997 Ford Taurus GL (his)
1997 Lincoln Mark VIII (hers)
1974 Lincoln Continental
1966 Ford F-350 verywrongbed
sproino
Posts: 23
Joined: June 12, 2013, 10:44 pm
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by sproino »

I seem to be having an electrical issue. When the key's in the on position, I hear an intermittant click or p-ting sound from the extreme driver's side of the dash, behind or above where the key is. The ammeter twitches with it. When it goes on, it's the click. When it goes off, it's the pting. This has me thinking some sort of relay.

The turn signals can be run concurrently, and have no effect. The headlamps being on or off have no effect.



Before I go trying to track down a problem through a thicket of wiring with dodgy insulation, I'm hoping somebody can point me the right way.

The previous owner disabled the heat in an attempt to fix the vent switch. I now have the parts to fix it. Seatbelts, mounting hardware, and new glove box were purchased from LMC and are awaiting installation.

I've now a new fuel tank that's got a sloshed seal inside and new fuel lines. It should be buttoned up tomorrow.


To recap, and with updates:

Before the vehicle can move, I need to...
...fix the clutch so I can get the thing into gear.

Before the vehicle can be driven, I need to...
...rebuild the stuck brake booster so I can mount the new dual circuit MC
...replace the rusted and broken brake lines.
...fix and mount the junkyard oil-bath air cleaner.
...bolt down the battery.
...check oil levels and quality in the transmission and differential.
...adjust everything having to do with timing and fuel delivery.

Before the vehicle can be driven safely, I need to...
...locate and repair the intermittant short behind the instrument cluster.
...determine whether the horn button or wiring is bad and fix.
...adjust the brakes.
...add seat belts!
...get the tailights and brakelights working.
...replace the bald and dry-rotted front tires (Treadwright 235/80R17 AXIOM A/T).
...fix the windshield wipers.

Before the vehicle can be driven routinely, I need to...
...replace the headliner.
...check the health of the valves.

One day I'd like to...
...have the right bed on it.
...repaint it the original dark green.
...put an overdrive on it.
...get it to Slickstock.
...attempt to run it on woodgas?
My wife and I are proud owners of:
1997 Ford Taurus GL (his)
1997 Lincoln Mark VIII (hers)
1974 Lincoln Continental
1966 Ford F-350 verywrongbed
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Toyz
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by Toyz »

Welcome! looks as if you are doing well on the abundant challenges!
As previously noted, the original nine foot bed is somewhat rare, although with a limited market, it might be relatively expensive when found.
I have a dually F350 ( as well as a bunch of them Marks!)
I suspect the emergency flasher is the source of your noted noise. It may have a shorted wire on the output side causing enough load to allowing it to short-circuit when the key is on.
Again, welcome; there is likely someone who can readily answer any questions here; if not we know of a currently off-line member who wrote the bible on the heavier pickups!
An abundance of the info he has accumulated is available at the touch of the search button.
Paul
The Ford Orphanage
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
sproino
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by sproino »

Between work and weather, I've only had two chances to do anything with the truck since my last post.

The new fuel tank and lines are in. The new glove box is also installed. The bench seat is back in, and lap-belts are present for all three seats. The PO didn't disable the heat, but rather made it so that there is only heat. I'm going to have a look at the valve that knob actuates and see what's going on when it's warmer.

A friend gave me a hand on a warm Sunday, and we got the transmission out. I've got a new clutch kit. If I've got to go in there anyway, it's worth it to replace everything so I don't have to go back again.

I started the truck and left it to idle half an hour today. It seems somebody tried getting into the driver's side door while it was locked. When that happens, it jams up again. Now it's really jammed and won't open at all, so I've got taking the panel off while it's closed and unjamming it to look forward to.

The wheels on the truck are of unknown provenance. They are 6"x17" one-piece wheels. I located two 5.25"x17.5" wheels at a salvage yard in Idaho, and they're on their way. The wheels on the truck seem to be in good order, and likelier than not I'm just using one of the new wheels as a spare. Speaking of which, what goes on a 17.5" wheel and where can I find it?

Toyz wrote:Welcome! looks as if you are doing well on the abundant challenges!
As previously noted, the original nine foot bed is somewhat rare, although with a limited market, it might be relatively expensive when found.
I have a dually F350 ( as well as a bunch of them Marks!)
I suspect the emergency flasher is the source of your noted noise. It may have a shorted wire on the output side causing enough load to allowing it to short-circuit when the key is on.
Again, welcome; there is likely someone who can readily answer any questions here; if not we know of a currently off-line member who wrote the bible on the heavier pickups!
An abundance of the info he has accumulated is available at the touch of the search button.
Paul


I'm starting to warm up to the bed on the truck, and might just keep it. Isn't the Mark VIII a great car? We've just replaced three more bad coil packs on it, as well as one of the air-ride solenoids, and it's running great now. Inspection's in March, so we're hoping nothing new creeps up.

I'll have a look in the instrument cluster when it's warm again. I'm also going to try to replace the lights when I get in there. I didn't see any general illumination bulbs in there when I had it out last. Are they hidden, or am I just blind to them?

Who is the member who wrote the bible on the heavier pickups? I'll want to search this member's posts and learn from them.

A quick update of the big list:
Before the vehicle can move, I need to...
...fix the clutch so I can get the thing into gear. (Transmission is out and parts are on hand.)

Before the vehicle can be driven, I need to...
...rebuild the stuck brake booster so I can mount the new dual circuit MC
...replace the rusted and broken brake lines.
...fix and mount the junkyard oil-bath air cleaner. (Excelsior and horsehair is what's inside those!)
...bolt down the battery.
...check oil levels and quality in the transmission and differential.
...adjust everything having to do with timing and fuel delivery.

Before the vehicle can be driven safely, I need to...
...locate and repair the intermittent short behind the instrument cluster.
...determine whether the horn button or wiring is bad and fix.
...adjust the brakes.
...get the taillights and brakelights working. (Pressure switch.)
...replace the bald and dry-rotted front tires (Treadwright 235/80R17 AXIOM A/T).
...fix the windshield wipers.

Before the vehicle can be driven routinely, I need to...
...replace the headliner.
...check the health of the valves.

One day I'd like to...
...have the right bed on it.
...repaint it the original dark green.
...put an overdrive on it.
...get it to Slickstock.
...attempt to run it on woodgas?
My wife and I are proud owners of:
1997 Ford Taurus GL (his)
1997 Lincoln Mark VIII (hers)
1974 Lincoln Continental
1966 Ford F-350 verywrongbed
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Toyz
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by Toyz »

Search Iceman6166 for lots of good info. He has been AWOL for a while, but has left us an immense legacy.
Random thoughts:
Might want to research DOT 5; I don't use it on our vehicles.
Too late now; but a stuck clutch can sometimes be broken free from an "induced shock".
Good luck!
Paul
The Ford Orphanage
Life's too short for boring vehicles!
My quest to develop a universal solvent is held up by the lack of a storage container.
Paul
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SC1966
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by SC1966 »

I did the two pot master conversion on my 1966 F350. I used a Cardone 10-1393 master cylinder. That master cylinder is for a 68 f350 with power drum/drum brakes. The first one I bought, they put the wrong master cylinder in the box. You can tell if it is right because both of the pots on the drum/drum are the same size. The drum/disc masters are more common, and I think they get more of those in for rebuild, but a drum/disc master will not work at all so that's important. I did already have power brakes.

Here's a picture after the install. Been driving it now for about 5 years with no problems.
Image

Edited to fix broken image link.
Last edited by SC1966 on March 4, 2014, 12:08 pm, edited 1 time in total.
sproino
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by sproino »

Toyz wrote:Search Iceman6166 for lots of good info. He has been AWOL for a while, but has left us an immense legacy.
Random thoughts:
Might want to research DOT 5; I don't use it on our vehicles.
Too late now; but a stuck clutch can sometimes be broken free from an "induced shock".
Good luck!
Paul


Thank you for the name. Do you want to research DOT 5, or want me to double-check my decision? That was a bit ambiguous. So far as I know, it's incompatable with DOT 3&4, much more expensive, and doesn't pull in water at all. It can only be used on completely new or completely flushed systems. I'm using the opportunity of having to completely re-do the brakes to go over to the new technology.

I tried induced shock. Needless to say, it did not work.

SC1966 wrote:I did the two pot master conversion on my 1966 F350. I used a Cardone 10-1393 master cylinder. That master cylinder is for a 68 f350 with power drum/drum brakes. The first one I bought, they put the wrong master cylinder in the box. You can tell if it is right because both of the pots on the drum/drum are the same size. The drum/disc masters are more common, and I think they get more of those in for rebuild, but a drum/disc master will not work at all so that's important. I did already have power brakes.

Here's a picture after the install. Been driving it now for about 5 years with no problems.
Image


That looks pretty slick. The PO of my truck already went over to a Mustang booster and master cylinder, which is significantly less expensive. All I did was go over to a '67 Mustang drum/drum master cylinder. The truck already has an external brake lamp switch. I plumb that in, and I'm set, except for also having a nearly-siezed booster.

I'm wondering if I want to try freeing it up, or just go and have the thing rebuilt.
My wife and I are proud owners of:
1997 Ford Taurus GL (his)
1997 Lincoln Mark VIII (hers)
1974 Lincoln Continental
1966 Ford F-350 verywrongbed
sproino
Posts: 23
Joined: June 12, 2013, 10:44 pm
United States of America

Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by sproino »

Updates, updates.

It took forever to find it, but the cause of all of our clutch woes had to do with whoever replaced the clutch last time. The part of the linkage that pivots? It wasn't attached on one side.

I'd say it was pointless to pull the transmission and look at what seemed to be a brand new clutch, but whoever made that mistake also didn't replace the throw-out bearing. It was very desperately in need of replacement, so it wasn't all a waste.

I still feel foolish, though.

I got the brake booster free with judicious use of silicone spray.

Here's my big list, fully updated:
Before the vehicle can move, I need to...
...DO NOTHING! I successfully moved the vehicle on Tuesday, with a crowd of curious bystanders massing at the end of my driveway.

Before the vehicle can be driven, I need to...
...replace the rusted and broken brake lines. (Materials on hand.)
...fix and mount the junkyard oil-bath air cleaner. (Excelsior and horsehair is what's inside those!)
...check oil levels and quality in the transmission and differential.
...adjust everything having to do with timing and fuel delivery.
...replace the widowmaker wheels on the rear.

Before the vehicle can be driven safely, I need to...
...locate and repair the intermittent short behind the instrument cluster.
...replace the horn brush.
...adjust the brakes.
...get the taillights and brakelights working. (Pressure switch.)
...replace the bald and dry-rotted rear tires.
...fix the windshield wipers.

Before the vehicle can be driven routinely, I need to...
...replace the headliner.
...check the health of the valves.

One day I'd like to...
...have the right bed on it.
...repaint it the original dark green.
...put an overdrive on it.
...get it to Slickstock.
...attempt to run it on woodgas?

It was wonderful to move the thing.
My wife and I are proud owners of:
1997 Ford Taurus GL (his)
1997 Lincoln Mark VIII (hers)
1974 Lincoln Continental
1966 Ford F-350 verywrongbed
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ThinLizzy13
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Location: Catskills NY
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by ThinLizzy13 »

Glad to see you can move the truck now.
sproino wrote:
One day I'd like to...
...attempt to run it on woodgas?
My buddy and I are "trying" to do this on an early 70's jeep plow truck. And by trying I mean we planned to do it, got the info, pulled the bed off, and then got distracted by something else made of metal. I think it'd be extremely useful to successfully have a truck that runs off a gasifier.


Did you get your instrument cluster sorted out?
'63 F100 223 3OT
‘20 F150 XL
sproino
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Joined: June 12, 2013, 10:44 pm
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by sproino »

ThinLizzy13 wrote:Glad to see you can move the truck now.

My buddy and I are "trying" to do this on an early 70's jeep plow truck. And by trying I mean we planned to do it, got the info, pulled the bed off, and then got distracted by something else made of metal. I think it'd be extremely useful to successfully have a truck that runs off a gasifier.
Where I live, in a city with trees, I get to see wood thrown away all the time.

Here's a link to all the literature I gathered together for the the project. https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B-CB ... RnTmc/edit Remember, it's very easy to make woodgas; it's very hard to make clean woodgas in the quantities needed. There's equations and charts in there for sizing a gassifier.
ThinLizzy13 wrote: Did you get your instrument cluster sorted out?
It hasn't been my priority. Right now it works, but I'm not going to let the thing burst into flames. I will check the grounds on the dash once I get brakes in.

I didn't mention this before in this thread, but I've got two Budd tubeless wheels on the truck wearing 215/75R17.5 16-plys in front. For the back, I've ordered 17"x7" wheels from Custom & Commercial Wheel in California. Costing me $207 a wheel, but it's worth an arm and a leg more than that if they keep me from losing am arm and a leg.

Two piece wheels are scary. The ones in the front, almost half the lip was gone! They could have let go at any time.
My wife and I are proud owners of:
1997 Ford Taurus GL (his)
1997 Lincoln Mark VIII (hers)
1974 Lincoln Continental
1966 Ford F-350 verywrongbed
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ThinLizzy13
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Location: Catskills NY
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Re: 1966 F-350 verywrongbed

Post by ThinLizzy13 »

sproino wrote:
Where I live, in a city with trees, I get to see wood thrown away all the time.

.
Where I live, in the middle of the woods, I'm surrounded by potential "free" energy if I exert the effort to get it lol.

Thanks for that link. That may help re-light the fire under our bottoms. The only literature I had was old government manuals and boy are they terrible. Once I complete welding school in February we may actually make some decent headway with the project. I had a friend in high school who went to Paul Smiths for some sort of environmental science. He tried this project and failed at it. But apparently there is a guy in (I think otisco NY) or somewhere there abouts who has a gasifier truck. There was an article about in Syracuse.com. I'll try to find it tm and put it on here. Sure would be nice to pick his brain.

Glad to hear you got some wheels ordered. I've heard some weird stories about those widow makers. Better safe than sorry.
'63 F100 223 3OT
‘20 F150 XL
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