Slick 60's

Anybody done a M5OD install on a 64? I'm getting parts ready to swap a 5.0 M5OD in place of my sons 292 and 3 speed. Any tips from those who have done it would be great. It is his everyday driver so I want to get as many parts ahead of time as possible to minimize down time. (Code words for reducing how much I have to share my truck)

Since it is a 3 on the tree truck will we have to cut out the floor board to put a raised one in?
How did you do the the clutch setup? What did you use for a crossmember to support the trany?
Speedo hook up?

Thanks for any input!!

Eric

This is how I did mine.
I used a rebuilt T5 I had but still.
The M5OD will be easier to use a hydraulic clutch with.
You will have to check the bore/stroke of the M5OD stock master but I used a brake master for a Slick for my clutch.
My 64 is a 3 speed truck and I left the floor intact - have a few inches of clearance.
You will have to look through the whole thing, I kinda hop from one part of the build to another based on time, money, etc.


viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

Greg D wrote:This is how I did mine.
I used a rebuilt T5 I had but still.
The M5OD will be easier to use a hydraulic clutch with.
You will have to check the bore/stroke of the M5OD stock master but I used a brake master for a Slick for my clutch.
My 64 is a 3 speed truck and I left the floor intact - have a few inches of clearance.
You will have to look through the whole thing, I kinda hop from one part of the build to another based on time, money, etc.


viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

Thanks Greg, I read your entire build thread and great info! (I have to do something overnight when I can't sleep .) Great to hear on the floor board. One less piece my son has to buy.

I noticed you made our own trans crossmember. Has anyone found an aftermarket one that they were able to use for a T5, M5R2?

Since the latemodel 5.0 didn't come with any of the belt setup we are planning to use the traditional V-belt since he is only running an alternator & waterpump for now & it is just too cold to mill around a salvage yard. Will the latemodel water pump rotate the correct way using a V instead of a serpintine setup or do we need to go with an early model?

Eric

FYI
As soon as I get the part numbers I'll post this in Hints and Tricks but if you're using the hydraulic clutch on an M5, Parker Hannifin makes push in fittings for the plastic hoses and also sells unmolded hose so you can custom plumb your hydraulic lines.

Thanks guys for the info. I got the master and slave with the tranny & ordered a new slave & bearing along with the shifter repair, seals, & freeze plugs to replace the rubber ones on top of the tranny today. I prefer to replace anything that would require pulling the tranny to do later. Been there done that too many times years ago.

I will check into the push on fittings and hoses. I was wondering earlier today if there was an alternative to the preformed line I got with the tranny.

We are staying with the vbelt setup for the same reason Greg indicated. Fortunately though the motor was an electric fuel pump car when I pulled the front cover off the motor it already had the fuel pump concentric on the cam and moded the cover for the pump.

The current speedo cable isn't working after replacing the drive & cable gears so we are just going to replace the cable while we are at it. Can we just use a similar cable on the M5od?

Has anyone ever moved the current crossmember back to use for a tranny mount and reinstall the needed fasteners it had in common with the spring mounts ?

I will start a thread & post picks when we get started on the swap if all is ready in 3 weeks or so. Since it is his daily driver it will be more of a swap & get running than a full redo. Hope to get some video of the 292 running this week to have when we go to sell it.

Thanks again for the input!!!

Eric

Ask for Parker A-lock fittings or there is another manufacturer called Swedgelock. Both work very well and can handle the pressure of the clutch system.
Good luck.

Greg D wrote:You want that crossmember right there or reconnected similar to mine.
Holding the engine is only one of it's purposes.
It's actually more important function is to tie the rear spring mounts together.
Without it the frame will flex too much at the hardpoint for the springs - it will feel abit "mooshy".
That's why I built the new crossmember center section that drops under the headers.

Uncle Skip, thanks for the brands. I'll check them out.

Greg, I assume you decided to do a custom crossmember by the spring mounts over the factory one for a reason?

We are using a crossmember style motor mount and will also have to use a crossmember under the tail of the tranny. I was contemplating if those two crossmembers would provide the rigidity needed at the spring mount?

Does anyone make an aftermarket tranny crossmember that can be adapted to offset correctly?

Posted the 292 in the add section today with a video link.

Thanks again!

Eric

Thanks Greg!

Since we don't have any headers yet it looks like we have some options.
1- Use block huggers and install the tranny seperate from the bottom if we leave the current cross member.
2- Use long tubes and drop the engine tranny in together with the crossmember removed and do some alternate support work after.

My son voted for the long tubes, which means he buys, I figure out how to make it work.

Thanks for all the input.

Eric

What length and type of Speedo cable will work to connect the factory Speedo to an M5R2? Speedo connection on tranny will be about 9" further away.
Any suggestions?

Eric

Eric, just noticed your water pump question. You have probably already figured this out, but, no, the original serpentine pump will not work with V-pulleys. There are at least two v-belt pumps; you will need the one with the pump shaft in the highest position. I will try to determine part number tomorrow.
Paul

Toyz wrote:Eric, just noticed your water pump question. You have probably already figured this out, but, no, the original serpentine pump will not work with V-pulleys. There are at least two v-belt pumps; you will need the one with the pump shaft in the highest position. I will try to determine part number tomorrow.
Paul

Thanks Paul for the insight on the pump. You and Greg confirmed my assumptions. I picked one up that will hopefully work.

Eric