Engine Oil Problems

[PFM-64f100]

I am having problems with my engine in the CrewCab. - sorry for the long story but wanted to give all details.

The other week I installed a sway bar that Brian T and I got from Barclays. The install went good and I love how it drives now with the front sway. I only drove it around the block and decided that I needed to go to HD for a couple of things. I stopped by the house to get a couple of things (about 10-15 minutes). I got back in the truck and started it up. Noticed real quick my dash was flashing 0 OIL PSI, I shut it off in a split second, then I checked the oil yep got enough clean oil in the engine (used the dipstick to figure that out). Started it back up and still 0... The shop was close so I drove it back there (200 ft) and parked it, engine had no noise and sounded great.

My first thoughts, OK dead sensor and tested the sensor and all tested good. I pulled the sensor and had my wife turn it over and out came oil from the hole. I called the Dakota digital people and we tested the gauge again and they determined it was a dead sensor and sent me a new one. A week or so later I finally got the new sensor installed. No luck still no oil psi. I installed a mech gauge and it confirmed no OIL psi. grrrr.

Yesterday I pulled the engine and checked the main bearings and they showed no wear (note this engine only has around 1,200 miles on it). I tore apart the oil pump and found nothing wrong with it and no wear marks. Time to punt so I went down bought new oil pump and pickup tub. Another pan gasket oil etc. I also rented a oil primer tool.

Got back home put it all together (oil pump, pan) put 5 quarts of oil in it. I hand turned the primer tool until I got oil coming from the filter area. Then I put a filter on it. Next I turned the primer with the drill until I got oil flowing out of the sensor hole (note this hole is up front, drive side by the filter, oil flows from filter to sensor hole then to mains).

I installed the mech gauge again and got some oil pressure 10-20 psi. I thought all was good but as I primed I noticed no oil going to the lifters. I ran the tool for at least 2 minutes still no oil up top. I pulled the intake and saw no problems.


My question is what else can I inspect and look at? I am at a loss at to what the problem is/could be. This engine was a rebuilt long block I got in July 2012 right before slick stock. I will be calling the place tomorrow because I have a 3 year warranty with unlimited miles but want to see what else I can check, hopefully they will just ship me out a new long block.


Engine is a 1995 5.8L EFI with Roller motor...

[texasslick]

Your welch plugs pushed out of the end cam oil galley. (maybe)

[PFM-64f100]

humm not really sure where those welch plugs are.

[Uncle Skip]

Chris, they are little metal "cups" that are press fitted in the ends of the oil galley in the lifter bay........ That oil galley empties out at the front of the block where the distributor goes in the intake manifold. In fact, I'm having a similar problem with my FE and I'm getting ready to pull the timing cover to check it out.
Its an easy fix if you can identify it. Let us know.
U@ss

[PFM-64f100]

That is one thing I haven't pulled yet. I will check there.

[Toyz]

Chris, pretty easy to tell; if the welch plugs are out; there will be signs of oil in the area. If the rear cam plug is out; it's pretty obvious if you have the engine separated from trans. Cam bearings themselves could be the issue; thank God for warranties ( and quality vendors!).
Paul

[Toyz]

Just an addendum; I was thinking the Lightning block had the front galley plugs tapped from the factory. That appears to be in-correct. Only the plug behind the distributor is factory tapped and secured with a pipe plug. Most I have encountered have the other two tapped also, but evidently this is NOT done at the factory, making it the same setup as the rest of the Windsor family, (maybe excluding the Boss302?). The one at the rear of the intake IS factory tapped and plugged, so I would not expect it to be a problem.
Paul

[PFM-64f100]

Problem has been found Thanks all for the suggestions it turns out this engine has galley plugs. I also talked with the rebuild outfit and they are paying for new gaskets and parts. I still have to talk with them about labor cost, heck sure has been a lot of work for failure that was outside of my control (plus I got lucky and saved the engine by watching the gauges (them flashing at me helped)).

I wish I could tap/thread the hole but that would void the rest of my warranty as they don't think I could get all of the metal shavings out. The plug won't come out again, I will make sure of that













Sorry for the sideways pics..

[simonscr]

Always nice to find the smoking gun

[LM14]

Usually staking them in works. They only staked it in good in one spot, the others look more like scratches. Be sure to remove those stake marks in the bore before driving in the new plugs if you use plugs again.

I would thread it anyway. You can put grease on the tap when you cut threads, stop every couple turns to clean it off and re-grease. We've done that for people and had absolutely no trouble. When you are done, bright light in the hole to look for chips that may have gotten away. A little dob of grease on the end of a long skinny screwdriver will let you get any wayward chips. I've never had to chase a chip, I make 2 turns and clean to new and start over.

Glad you found it and it's really a simple repair.

SPark

[Toyz]

Gotta appreciate those VHX's, and an alert driver!
And it didn't happen 800 miles from home
Glad to hear that solved it without additional issues!
Paul

[texasslick]

Well I'm glad you found the problem. I would tap the hole anyway be sure to use a short plug internal wrenching. On another subject what did it take to get your transmission repaired from when it broke in KC at SS12.

[PFM-64f100]

Well I'm glad you found the problem. I would tap the hole anyway be sure to use a short plug internal wrenching. On another subject what did it take to get your transmission repaired from when it broke in KC at SS12.

The transmission shop in KC had installed the pump gears backwards (they did it twice). this created a pressure problem on the drive circuit that burned up drive rather quickly. The shop down here got it all fixed up. It took them a little while but they got it fixed. Tranny has been doing good since then.


I will be able to get some gaskets and parts hopefully today. I will also look into doing the tap, I think it would be the best but will see what parts I get. More to come.

[Toyz]

Tapping is something I would want to do, but not at the expense of losing the warranty!
Paul

[PFM-64f100]

Wanted to give an update to everyone. I did tap the hole and put a plug in it with red lock tight (I did have to use a 5/8 plug and didn't have to drill the hole out, guess the hole wasn't a 1/2 like the plug it had). The engine is now back in the truck and working.



Of course on my test drive something sounded weird. This is what happened.



I was able to limp it home and now I got to get it replaced. Oil pressure is back to normal and engine is running good.

Thanks all for the help on this.