1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff too
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1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff too
I'm new here and I thought I would introduce myself with pics of my 1964 F100 with a 223/3 on the tree.
This is the day I picked it up, September 2013
This is the day I picked it up, September 2013
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- Posts: 112
- Joined: April 17, 2014, 8:59 pm
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- Posts: 112
- Joined: April 17, 2014, 8:59 pm
Re: 1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff
Looks like the truck was lifted or pushed by a tractor bucket, both quarters are dented upward behind both wheels. It took some serious persuasion to regain the approximate shape
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Roll pan
I got the truck without a rear ( or front) bumper. I thought I would attempt to make a rear roll pan. I used the bed side to bend the 18 gauge metal on. My methods are sometimes crude, but usually effective.
It's starting to take shape
License plate area cut
It's hard to see but I rolled a bead in the underside of it
A few minutes later!!
It's starting to take shape
License plate area cut
It's hard to see but I rolled a bead in the underside of it
A few minutes later!!
Re: 1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff
Your off to a great start. Obviously not you first build.
Welcome to the board.
Welcome to the board.
Re: 1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff
Like what you are doin!
Welcome.
Great job on the "panel bender"! Just goes to show you how versatile these Slicks are!
Welcome.
Great job on the "panel bender"! Just goes to show you how versatile these Slicks are!
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Re: 1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff
Thanks for the warm welcome. More progress to come
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Re: 1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff
If you're wondering why the bed is different color than the cab, I believe the original bed was destroyed in a collision and this 65/66 bed was put on to replace it. There are dents in the rear cab that look like a bed contacted it. The Porta Power and some brute force were used
It's almost pushed back where it belongs
Trim holes filled
After a coat of filler and then self etch primer
It's almost pushed back where it belongs
Trim holes filled
After a coat of filler and then self etch primer
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Re: 1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff
I'm moving the gas tank (more on that later) so I'm filling the hole in the cab. Again I'm using 18 gauge sheet metal, since I bought a 10x3 foot sheet from my local metal supplier
This has more curves than it appears to
Welded and welds ground down
A little filler, don't worry most of this gets sanded off
This has more curves than it appears to
Welded and welds ground down
A little filler, don't worry most of this gets sanded off
Re: 1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff
Looking very nice. Look like you are doing things right.
SPark
SPark
1932 Ford 5 window coupe. 302/C4
1962 8V-390/C6 Unibody Short Bed Soon to be Big Window - The Lincoln that never was
2013 F150 Super Crew Eco Boost 4x4
2015 Ford Edge for the little lady, because she said so!
2007 Mustang GT, 4.6-3V/5 Speed. Only 8680 miles on the clock.
More toys, I need more toys!!!
1962 8V-390/C6 Unibody Short Bed Soon to be Big Window - The Lincoln that never was
2013 F150 Super Crew Eco Boost 4x4
2015 Ford Edge for the little lady, because she said so!
2007 Mustang GT, 4.6-3V/5 Speed. Only 8680 miles on the clock.
More toys, I need more toys!!!
Re: 1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff
Yes. Looking vsry good. Good on ya cor saving another one! Wel ome aboard!
Re: 1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff
Looking good! How did you make the curve for your gas filler hole opening patch panel? I like the way you made the roll pan.
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Re: 1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff
I made the curve for the gas filler hole with a hammer & dolly, vice, and once it was close I started welding and worked the metal as I went.
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Re: 1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff
So I used a big pressurized sand blaster to removed the rust inside the bed. The metal was pitted and would've taken forever to sand with all the angles and I would've never gotten rid of all of it. So I put some 1x3s in the stake pockets and built a frame so it could then wrap it in plastic sheeting and keep the media sort of contained. It was a miserable 2 days inside the tent, loud even with ear protection, so dusty that I could barely see. But once finished well worth it. The front few inches of the bed floor was very thin and not really save able. The front bed wall was also rusted at the very bottom and needed replacement. I seriously considered just tearing the entire floor out and using diamond plate, but I really wanted to keep the stock floor ribs. So I fixed the rust, it was not my favorite part of this build.
I made all the rib patches by hand with a hammer and the vice. They were then shot with weld thru primer
The bed wall patch is in and almost ready for primer
Fiberglass filler, very tough to sand
Epoxy primed
I made all the rib patches by hand with a hammer and the vice. They were then shot with weld thru primer
The bed wall patch is in and almost ready for primer
Fiberglass filler, very tough to sand
Epoxy primed
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Re: 1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff
Some pics of the blasting tent
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- therealjoeshmoe
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Re: 1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff
hey how did your compressor work with that sand blaster?
nice work by the way....
nice work by the way....
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Re: 1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff
The compressor worked very hard, it's a 60 gallon 220 volt Husky from Home Depot. It got the job done, but was running the entire time. The blaster is a monstrous pressurized unit that easily held three bags of Black Beauty, and could probably hold 7 or 8, not a Harbor Freight one.
Thanks
Thanks
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Re: 1964 F100 body and paint, with a little mechanical stuff
Mouse condo in the radiator