"Another Greenhorn Brake Question"

[Shadow]

Me & My Buddy Removed The Entire Brake System From Connie's 62' Today. After Half A Can Of PB Blaster And A Sound Flogging With A 2-LB Ford Hammer I Couldn't Get The Front Brake-Drums Separated From The Hubs. Are These Press Fitted Together? I Don't Remember My 64' Being This Way. Is There Something I'm Not Doing Right Or Is A Bigger Hammer Indicated? Any Advise Would Be Greatly Appreciated ... ................

[ICEMAN6166]

just really rusted on most likely. some heat may help but if you whack it too hard you can bend the drum, ive had it happen , lucky for me i knew someone with a good press who straightened it out.

[Shadow]

just really rusted on most likely. some heat may help but if you whack it too hard you can bend the drum, ive had it happen , lucky for me i knew someone with a good press who straightened it out.

Hey Brian, Weren't Some Of These Front Hub & Drums Press Fit Together? I Just Read This Page On Another Forum. http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/86992 ... tions.html This Looks Like What I'm Dealing With.........................

[ICEMAN6166]

Dana
heres the hub- less drum- on the 61 uni i had



and thanks for reminding me why i hate fte and those silly arguments between posters.

btw i remembered the one i bent was on my 4x4.

its possible the drum could be pressed on the hub, i had no problem getting the ones off the uni, a light tap was all that was needed.
notice no removal of studs needed.
ill look this up in the factory manual later and see what it says.

[ICEMAN6166]

so the factory manual says
" a brake drum should be replaced if the drum is cracked, distorted or loose at the hub"
no mention is made of separating the drum from the hub on 2wd trucks

not sure what to make of this, i had no braking issues on the uni or any of the countless other trucks i have taken the front drum off the hub.

i will say as far as the uni goes the drum fit snugly on the hub, it was not loose either before or after.

best advice i can give now is wait for Paul or someone else to give their opinion.

[Mr. Jones]

Dana,
Did you back off the shoes?

[Shadow]

Okay, The Guy At Napa Said I Need To Get The Hubs Pressed Off The Drums. Then Replace The Studs And Press The New Drums Onto The Hub. Not Enough Meat Left On Them Or He Could Have Just Turned Them. The Back Ones Can Still Be Turned. And I Thought The Big Headache Was Going To Be Single Piston Wheel-Cylinders, I Guess I Dodged A Bullet On Those Things. I'm Replacing The Master-Cylinder, Pressure-Switch, Hard-Lines, Hoses, Wheel-Cylinders, Shoes & Drums. Everything's Getting Sandblasted & Painted, & Bearing Re-Packed. I Want Connie To Feel Safe Driving It.. Paul Or Anyone With Any Other Knowledge On These Front Drums Please Chime-In...........

[Shadow]

Dana,
Did you back off the shoes?

Hey Dan, Yeah I Backed Off The Shoes. On The Fronts I Had To Back-Off The Shoes then Remove The Grease-Cap, Cotter-Pin And Nut To Remove The Hub-Drum Combo. I Thought PB Blaster & Banging On It For 2-Hours With A Sledge-Hammer Until My Arms Felt Like Wet Spaghetti Was The Way To Get Them Off. ........................

[Toyz]

I'm sitting this one out! If the drums were out of spec, I always replaced hub and drum assemblies. For commercial customers, they were replaced with new, otherwise I always had some good assemblies around. I have never been in favor of replacing multiple studs on a hub, although I have done so from time to time.
Pressing the studs out will most certainly release the drum; as stated earlier, just be certain the replacements are well seated, and the drum is a good fit on the assembly. I would probably take it a step further and sweep the run-out on the installed assembly in two planes.
Overkill as to caution? Yeah, probably, but I think Dana will agree, these Connie's are worth the extra concern!
Paul

[Mr. Jones]

Dana,
Someone posted about penatrating fluids this spring.The best one was a home brew of 50/50 mix of ATF and acytone,I used it on the disc- brakes I got from SlickCollector,I was amazed how well it worked . King pins,caliper bolts,all the bolts came loose like magic had to apply a couple times and tap on the metal.Just an idea if all else fails.
Dan

[tomrooster]

I would heat the drum around the hub while putting pressure on the back of the drum. Tom

[William-in-St George]

Boosted drum/drum with a dual chamber MC designed for a drum/drum setup. MC Power brakes sells a sweet setup, spendy but worth it for a novice driver accustomed to power brakes. IMHO.

[Astrowing]

I had to have the drums pressed off hubs on 58 Thunderbird. The new drums were the best improvement in performance by far. The shoes to drum have to be properly arced.