Slick 60's

Guys, I noticed Joey and several others were talking about brake flaring tools. I have a commercial kit that works "OK" but it still does not meet my expectations, will NOT handle stainless tubing, and I spent $125 on it.
Last weekend, I was working on Tweety, flairing stainless brake line tubing and Daryl whips out this $250.00 bad boy on me and it made the most beautiful flairs I've ever done.... ever.
Even with stainless tubing. It looks dead stock factory.
Now, this morning I got an email from Eastwood that they have them on sale for $200.00 and I'm going to sell the one I have and buy one. Take a look. It is an awesome tool.
http://www.eastwood.com/professional-br ... -tool.html

What was the $200 deal? I can get a 10% coupon but you can't use it on this tool. Best I can find is $250 as shown in your link. I would buy one for $200, been sitting on the fence since I saw one work.

Figured this statement, found above the price in the ad, killed any coupons:

"Due to the already low sale price of this item, no further discounts apply"

I also got an email but they are $250 in it, too. What am I missing?

SPark

When I clicked on the link it said it was on sale for 205.99.

I bought one several years ago, The ease of use,and quality of flair is phenomenal.
I have found that clean square cuts are essential, rat tail needle file to the inside to deburr and a dab of anti seize when forming the flair made the work go alot easier.
youtube has several clips on using it,one of which says not to use a tubing cutter.
John

IM PRETTY IMPRESSED WITH MY ATD BRAND I BOUGHT.. LOL IT WASNT NO $200 BUT IT SEEMS TO GET THE JOB DONE. I JUST NEEDED PRACTICE TO GET THE HANG OF IT.. IT MAY BITE ME IN THE BUTT LATER BUT THE FLARES ACTUALLY LOOK ALMOST IDENTICAL TO THE OE FLARE I WAS COMPARING THEM TOO.. BUT THAT EASTWOOD ONE LOOKS PRETTY IMPRESSIVE! LOL

Bingo!

Today I click on it and it's $205. Weird. Bought it before I didn't get that price again.

Thanks Skip,
SPark

I caught mine on sale for 179.00 last year , can't beat them

Danny

unibody madness wrote:one of which says not to use a tubing cutter.

that is because its possible to bend the tubing by cranking down too hard on the cutter.

ICEMAN6166 wrote:

unibody madness wrote:one of which says not to use a tubing cutter.

that is because its possible to bend the tubing by cranking down too hard on the cutter.

well how you spose to cut it if you cant use a tubing cutter?

therealjoeshmoe wrote:

ICEMAN6166 wrote:

unibody madness wrote:one of which says not to use a tubing cutter.

that is because its possible to bend the tubing by cranking down too hard on the cutter.

well how you spose to cut it if you cant use a tubing cutter?

i use a tubing cutter im just careful how. its a small one with a thumbscrew for tightening rather than a larger one that has a handle.also i have done lots of copper pipe plumbing so over the years developed a feel for it.
need to make sure the end is not tapered badly and the inside has no burr.

this is about plumbing but other than the fact you need to double flare brake lines the same things apply.

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/cutjoincopperpipe

"A pipe cutter makes cutting copper pipe easy. Simply hand tighten the pipe cutter onto the mark where you want to cut the pipe. Rotate the cutter around the pipe a couple of times to create a groove all around the pipe, and then each time you rotate the cutter, tighten the blade a little. Each rotation will cut a little deeper into the pipe and the cut will be straight. Don't tighten too much or you can bend the pipe out of round."

I use a cutoff wheel on my angle grinder and dress the end on my belt sander. Gives a very clean end to work with. I have tubing cutters I use also, but if I'm working out in the open it's the cutoff wheel.

SPark

If you use a tubing cutter don't cut all the way thru stop about 1/2 way and remove cutter and grab the tubing like your going to bend it at the cut. It will snap off and not leave a burr. Takes a little practice to get it right. Tom

You also compress the copper leaving a hard spot that gives some different results depending on how much it takes tocut through.
You can just mark it to give you a square cut, and then use a cut off wheel.
I cut it with a hack saw w/fine tooth blade or cut off wheel.
I then dress it with a sharp file,while clamped in the flaring blocks.

The tube cutter is the best way I`ve found to cut tube but don`t try and gorilla it, and tighten it too hard slow and steady if it`s hard to turn you have it too tight, also they have a deburrer on the cutter use that rather than a file...
Uncle I`ve used one similar to that and they do spoil you, I still have the old puller shaped one!, but one day!!!!

Awesome. Glad to hear from someone who has actually used it. Is there any indication when the sale will end?

Look what arrived with the FedEx truck this morning!





Think I'll go mash the ends of a bunch of old surplus brake line I've kept from former projects to test this thing out.

Thanks for the tip Unc! Made me get off my butt and order one after putting it off for so long.
SPark

Nice !!