Is base/clear paint more forgiving?

[DKC]

Ok, I admit it, I consider myself a "barn yard" painter. Although I have painted many tractors, farm implements, and dump trucks, they were everyday work vehicles and I wasn't too upset when I had to pick a crawling bug out of my fresh paint, or wound up with orange peel or gloss that was not quite even. I have only worked with single stage, non metallic enamels.

I want to do a better job on my slick. I will make it original color non-metallic turquoise and white. All surfaces are going down to bare metal, then epoxy primer and then a sandable primer. I'm thinking if I go with base coat / clear coat I can go back and fix any screw-ups sooner, and/or be able to wet sand and buff out problems that may occur in the clear coat. I also hope to finish many of the pieces a few at a time before re-assembly without suffering too much color variation. Your thoughts please.........

[bruceandersson]

This is one of those areas where there are as many opinions as people. My opinion only: Single stage solid colors are the easiest and can be cut and buffed to correct for most problems. You will end up with a transition line between your colors if you two tone. Base/clear is a more involved process with the two applications within a short period of time. Base/clear is best for any metalic paints as you cannot sand and buff a metalic paint, but you can sand and buff the clear coat. You can also eliminate any transition lines across colors with the clear coat. Spraying clear is also different than base or single stage. It can handle a much heavier coat and will flow better the heavier it goes on.

[DKC]

Bruce- There won't be much issue with transition lines between two tone colors on my truck, because I will put all the trim back on over the color breaks. I was more concerned with painting the fenders inside and out, hood, bed, tailgate, cab, all at different times before re-assembling the truck. I imagine if I have the paint mixed all at one time, It won't be a problem. The single stage enamels I have used in the past were acrylic enamels, and even with hardener, it seemed I would have to wait 30 days or more to repair a problem area. Will more modern single-stage such as urethane cure faster?

[Toyz]

Urethane is very quick and forgiving. I have a lot of experience at screw-ups; so urethane is my favorite! In my climate, I can attack glitches in a matter of minutes. Color variances are another matter. I've found the Caribbean Turquoise and Peacock colors to be largely trouble free, but the key is not only a uniform pre-mix, but maintaining all conditions as close as possible, This includes gun and adjustments, distance, heaviness of coat; as well as temperature and humidity.
Paul

[longcabjohn]

Paint fenders, doors and such in the position they are on truck (not laying on rack). Paint back side of fenders with single stage instead of base. Be sure to wear a good breathing device.


Johnny

[grump]

Johnny is correct about orientation of your parts if you're painting metalics, solids not so much. Toyz is dead on, consistency thru out is key. To me the most important thing said so far is "MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GOOD BREATHING PROTECTION" and good air flow. I painted my first car in the summer of '67 (boy did I screw that one up). I fell in love with painting, I learned to do body work just so I could paint some more. We didn't have very good breathing protection back then (a gauze pad) and even when two part paint came out breathing protection didn't nesessarily catch up. I've painted in some very poor conditions over the years and done some stupid things while painting (breathing wise). The clear coat hardener has isocyanates which is poison. When I get done painting I tend to feel a tightness in my chest from isocyanates. I know this has been long winded about the safety of your lungs and I'm sure that it will come up that painting 1 truck isn't going to make that much difference and they're probably right. Just make sure to use a good charcoal filter mask and as much air flow as possible. I'm not trying to scare you away as you've already painted other things, just be safe.

[DKC]

Grump- I have been using a 3M Half Mask that is fairly soft vinyl and has a good tight seal. It has the 6000 series filter cartridges. The flow is not yet restricted but I think I,ll do some research and choose some new filters for it before I paint again.

[unibody madness]

A very good friend of mine is a professional industrial painter. last year he developed leukemia directly tied to said paints. Now a year later he appears to have put it in remission. Please do not take paint protection for granted.

[Truckrat]

DKC, I have to go along with these guys on the safety. I painted aircraft
for 30 years using Single stage Poly Urethane and Primers with the Isocyanates
and used great breathing protection with an air supplied respirator that completely
covered my head with cool air to breath. Without it I would probably be dead.
Sorry, don't mean to beat a dead horse here.
I have sprayed base/ clear and single stage and as these guys have said, I agree.
65 - 75 degrees F is ideal spraying temps. Hot days will make paint flash too fast.
Cooler than 65F by too much you can get sags and longer flash time between coats.
It is hard to get two painters to agree completely on much, but I know some of these
guys and have seen some of their work. Mine you have to look up in the sky and see
but at 35,000 feet not too easy, Lol! TR

[viper driver]

DKC,

i've used both single stage and base coat/ clear coat. I think either will work for what you're describing. either can have the bugs and dirt color sanded out fairly easily. Both are somewhat difficult to make a repair with only part of a panel and not be seen. For a beginner anyway. An expert could repair either on a small area without being seen.

I think the main difference you'll find is in price and long term reliability. The single stage will be much much cheaper. The base coat clear coat will maintain its color without fading much better.

good luck.