Slick 60's

I have a pertronix conversion kit and I know it needs 12v. My slick still has the resister wire, so I was checking the existing setup to see if that wire had been bypassed or what it was actually getting at the coil. About 6-7volts ignition off and 11.5 running. I didn't expect that to be so high. Rest of the car is 14.4 running so there is SOME resistance but I though I read somewhere it should be 9v running?!

Does the resistance wire loose resistance as it wears/gets older?!

The original resistor wire is pink. I'd find it on the ignition switch and see what resistance you get from there to the coil. This will prove/disprove if its being used or not. I would think most wires would only increase in resistance if anything due to corrosion at a contact. The wire itself should not change unless it was shorted at some point an then it would no longer pass any current. It is also easy to bypass with a std wire.

I bypassed mine with straight a 12v wire. be sure to tie it into the wire loom that sends 12v on the starter circuit or it will not start.

I installed a Pertronix on a '65 Mustang (same basic start /run circuitry as a Slick) earlier this year and had similar questions after reading and re-reading the Pertronix instructions and website.

I contacted the Pertronix tech help and received an equally vague answer, "connect the black and red wires per the instructions.", with no mention of the resistor wire even though I had specifically asked about the resistor wire.

I took this approach with the install. I left the resistor wire in the circuit and connected "the black and red wires per the instructions." The customer was willing to experiment and I figured the worst that could happen is to waste the Pertronix unit. With the engine running I had about 8 volts between the coil (+) and the battery (-). The Mustang started easier than it ever had and runs smother than it has in years, according to the owner. We decided to leave it as is. Kind of a " if it ain't broke don't fix it" approach.

Is the Pertronix properly connected? Even after conversing with the Pertronix tech people I don't know. Would it run better with the resistor wire out of the circuit? I don't know.
What I do know is my customer is very pleased with the Pertronix and has had me install Pertronix units on two of his other vintage Fords.

Try hooking the Pertronix without going to the work and effort to bypass the resistor wire, then hook it with the resistor out of the circuit. See how your truck starts and runs in both conditions.

Good luck.

I added a relay to my Pertronix 3 setup so that the resistor wire acts as a trigger rather than limiting the voltage to the coil. If I recall the Pertronix 3 ignitor coil might be more picky about wanting the full 12v to the coil.

I found some decent wiring diagrams (not from Pertronix) that I can probably locate if it helps you guys.

Regards,
Corey

I should have clarified. The Pertronix units I used were the basic Ignitors, not the ll or lll.

There are any number of ways to supply the coil with 12 volts. Adding a relay triggered by the original coil wire is probably the simplest.

I have been known to see problems where none exist and to create mountains from mole hill. Perhaps this is one of those instances.

Pertronix seems to build a good, quality product. I was disappointed in their lack of Ford specific instructions packaged with a Ford unit, as well as their on-line tech support.

Thanks all,

I think I am just going to run a new wire to the main disconnect in place of the resistor wire.

There are different requirements for the various Pertronix. The Pertronix I is made to retain the resistor wire, while the II and III work best at full battery voltage. If using your original or similar resistance coil, you still should reduce the coil input voltage with the resistance wire for longevity. Leeroy, are you saying you have coil voltage with "ignition off", or just key on, engine not running? "Running" voltage can be misleading because it is affected by the circuit breaking and re-opening; while a static check without circuit ground will indicate near battery voltage even with a resistor. If running a PII or PIII, I see no need for retaining the resistor bypass wire from the starter relay. It is redundant, since you should be feeding full available voltage at all times while energized. Again, if running a coil designed for lower input voltage, a resistor should be used, so one will need a full available voltage source to the PII/PIII, and a resistor circuit to the coil. This is where the additional complexity of a relay comes in, one can use the resistor wire as stated to both feed the coil and trigger the relay, thus allowing full relayed voltage to the Pertronix. The Pertonix I units had some problems a few years back, but remain the simplest to install and least expensive conversion.
Paul

Thanks for the replies all, I'm half way there sortof...... Ran a new wire and removed the resister wire so now getting a full 12v at the coil. Relatively straight forward to do.
Replaced the points and condenser with the pertronix and this is where the fun started. Found the magnetic pickup doesn't fit my distributor tightly nor seated fully even though the kit I bought is for a 351c. Managed to mod it where it sits firmly and spins correctly. The advance plate earth interferes with the pertronix module so I've had to 'move' it to the other side which is a bit iffy. Installed the flame thrower coil and getting 12v, went to start but no start. Coughing and spluttering but no fire. Just got it to start once but couldn't idle.

I've run out of daylight and patience today so will re-visit the earths and run a couple of temporary ones from the distributor tomorrow and see how it goes. 30 min install my @ss!

Thanks for all the input guys.

Paul nailed it! Is it a I, II or III. They all take different resistance coils and different voltage inputs. No standing answer.

It's a II with the matching flame thrower coil.
After a lot of cussing and diagnostics, turns out the Aussie cleveland's have a different distributor!! (autolite vs bosch)
So as much as I try, the 'cleveland kit' isn't going to work with MY cleveland.

I'll start again when the new kit arrives.

Ask for both.... That way you won't be disappointed.

Got the right kit, fired up straight away.
Can put this to bed now

Good to know, Glad you got it licked
John