Stonezones power windows??

turtle1056 · Post by **turtle1056** » October 15, 2007, 5:15 pm

Would you care to detail your power window conversion for the rest of us - your solution looks much better than the$350 a pair at the retailers and certainly a lot better than those universal lift deals.
They look perfect for me for sure
thanx in advance for your time
Ken

kstones63 · Post by **kstones63** » October 15, 2007, 11:38 pm

Hopefully I will get home at a decent time on Tuesday and I will get you the info on my power windows. They are salvage yard parts.
Kevin

Alan Mclennan · Post by **Alan Mclennan** » October 16, 2007, 1:32 am

Yeah nice job Kev,make sure you tell them to be carefull when unloading the spring!,I nearly lost my courting finger

.

Alan,

kstones63 · Post by **kstones63** » October 17, 2007, 5:35 pm

The power window motors came out of a 2000 Saturn four door. You can get the front door regulators cheap if you find ones that the regulator mechanism is damaged. All you want off of it is the motor itself. The salvage yard that I went to gave them to me because they were worthless to them. The teeth on the motors meshes perfectly with the teeth on your stock regulator. Take the stock handle out(careful of the spring).
I had to weld a bracket on up top for the third mounting hole. I also had to notch the stock regulator behind one monting tab to allow for clearance of the motor.
Tilt the motor towards the front of the truck or it will hit the window channel. It will all make sense once you get your regulator out and have the motor sitting next to it.

Mine are very smooth running and they were cheap to make.
Kevin

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » October 17, 2007, 9:38 pm

that's pretty cool.

turtle1056 · Post by **turtle1056** » October 18, 2007, 8:18 am

Saturn = GM usually

Does that mean any GM power window motor should work? Wouldnt think that the tooth pitch would be any different from model to model?
Or did you have to go thru a few motors to find one that worked?

Thoughts?

PFM-64f100 · Post by **PFM-64f100** » October 18, 2007, 9:00 am

Kevin do you have any close up pictures of the bracket you made? I have the motors just haven't had the time to work on this. thanks

kstones63 · Post by **kstones63** » October 18, 2007, 8:57 pm

I am not sure if any GM window motor will work. I went to the salvage yard with my regulator and was looking at any and all motors. My criteria was the thin flat motor and the teeth to mesh up, didn't care what they came out of. A lot of GM windows are tape drive and won't work. Then I found the Saturn front doors and they were perfect. The Saturn rear doors are tape drive. Some of the newer Ford motors were thin but the teeth didn't mesh up right.
The bracket that I put on my regulator is just a triangle piece on top to mount the third hole in the motor. You can see the bracket on the right motor at the top on the right. The opposite side has to be notch out behind the original mount to allow for clearance on the motor.

I hope that helps
Kevin

dotcentral · Post by **dotcentral** » February 8, 2008, 5:00 pm

I'm digging up an old post here, sorry.

Has anyone completed the power window upgrade with the saturn or any other salvage yard parts? If so, have any photos to share? I also wonder what was used for the window buttons.

Thanks.

grabber64 · Post by **grabber64** » February 8, 2008, 5:17 pm

hey for those of you guys that can't see it that well. open up a new file on your desktop and save the pics of the regulators to to that file on your desktop. then open it up FROM your desktop to full screen. you will have a menu of items to choose from at the bottom. you can enlarge it from there and see the notched out side really well and triangle welded to it for the third mount of the motor.

it's a good thing there are some out there keeping up with the times on technology. that pic blows up nice and is still visible. [/i]

grabber64 · Post by **grabber64** » February 8, 2008, 5:17 pm

hey for those of you guys that can't see it that well. open up a new file on your desktop and save the pic of the regulators to to that file on your desktop. then open it up FROM your desktop to full screen. you will have a menu of items to choose from at the bottom. you can enlarge it from there and see the notched out side really well and triangle welded to it for the third mount of the motor.

it's a good thing there are some out there keeping up with the times on technology. that pic blows up nice and is still visible.

needmoretime · Post by **needmoretime** » February 8, 2008, 5:47 pm

Excellent work kstone!

HUM, I wonder how may of those Saturns are out there in the 'yank a crank yards'?

Shawn F. · Post by **Shawn F.** » February 9, 2008, 4:19 pm

Sounds like a nice upgrade... Tim, wanna go to a pull a part one of these weekends? Heh

dotcentral · Post by **dotcentral** » February 9, 2008, 5:34 pm

might go sunday afternoon after I play with splicing in an inline fuel filter. Give me a call if you want to go.

Shawn F. · Post by **Shawn F.** » February 9, 2008, 5:46 pm

I am guessing this sunday? I have a big paintball game at my house tomarrow at about 1:00. If next sunday then I am up for it for sure.

Shawn F. · Post by **Shawn F.** » February 11, 2008, 4:57 pm

Tim, did you ever make it to the pull a part Sunday? If so then any luck finding these motors? I am considering it once I see that more people are doing it and if it works then I will get some and buy some switches from Speedway Motors.

Post by **Casey 65** » February 12, 2008, 12:29 pm

If you are having trouble identifying a 2000 Saturn in a wrecking yard, here's some info that may help..
An Auto VIN Decoder breaks down the unique alphanumeric sequence known as a Vehicle Identification Number, which is a car's fingerprint. Each and every automobile on the road has its own 17-character VIN, and it is this identification number that is used to generate a Vehicle History Report, also known as a VIN check.

The VIN check taps into millions of DMV records and reveals all of the available history for a particular vehicle, including any hidden problems, odometer readings, ownership transfers and more. It is an absolute must for used car buyers, as it tells you everything you need to know about the vehicle.

The Auto VIN Decoder can help you understand what these letters and numbers mean, which is the first step towards ensuring that a vehicle you are considering is right for you.

Let's break down the Vehicle Identification Number, starting with the first character. (Please note the letter "I" as in indigo, the letter "O" as in orange, and the letter "Q" as in queen are NOT found in any VIN Numbers.)

(We will use the following VIN as an example: 2FTRX18W1XCA01212)

The first character represents the country of manufacture, and can be a letter or a number, each signifying a different country. The most common ones are as follows:

(1 = USA, 2 = Canada, 3 = Mexico, J = Japan, K = Korea, W = Germany, Y = Finland, Sweden)

So using the Auto VIN Decoder in the above example, this particular car was made in Canada.

The second/third characters represent the manufacturer, also known as the make. The most common are:

(A = Alfa Romeo, B = Dodge, C = Chrysler, D = Daihatsu, E = Eagle, F= Ford/Eagle, G = All General Motors vehicles (Buick, Cadillac, Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Pontiac, Saturn) H = Honda/Acura, J= Jeep, L = Lincoln, M = Mitsubishi, N = Nissan/Infiniti, P = Plymouth, S = Subaru, T = Toyota/Lexus, V = Volkswagen)

So using the Auto VIN Decoder in the above example, this car is a Ford or an Eagle..since Eagle is no longer made, it is most likely a Ford.

Other popular makes use a 3-character initial sequence:

(TRU/WAU = Audi, 4US/WBA/WBS = BMW, 2HM/KMH = Hyundai, SAJ = Jaguar, SAL = Land Rover, 1YV/JM1 = Mazda, WDB = Mercedes-Benz, VF3 = Peugeot, WP0 = Porsche, YK1/YS3 = Saab, YV1=Volvo)

The fourth character is the type of restraint system.

In the above example, "R" represents hydraulic breaks using the VIN Decoder.

The fifth, sixth & seventh characters are the vehicle line, series and body style. This will obviously be different across makes and models.

In the above example, characters 5, 6 & 7 are X18: X18 is a Ford F150 Pickup 4WD Super Cab

The eighth character is the engine type.

With the Auto VIN Decoder, W represents a 4.6 liter V-8 engine.

The tenth character represents the year of the car. Pay close attention to this one:

B = 1981 F = 1985 K = 1989 P = 1993 V = 1997 1 = 2001
C = 1982 G = 1986 L = 1990 R = 1994 W = 1998 2 = 2002
D = 1983 H = 1987 M = 1991 S = 1995 X = 1999 3 = 2003
E = 1984 J = 1988 N = 1992 T = 1996 Y = 2000 4 = 2004

For the most recent used model year, 5 = 2005

In the above example, the "X" indicates that this car was made in 1999.

The eleventh character indicates the assembly plant.

In the above example, the C indicates Ontario, Canada

Characters 12-17 represent the vehicle's unique fingerprint. It is these six digits which make every single vehicle in the world different.

So using the Auto VIN Decoder one last time, the Vehicle Identification Number: 2FTRX18W1XCA01212 represents a 1999 Ford F150 Pickup 4WD Super Cab manufactured in Ontario, Canada with hydraulic brakes and a 4.6-liter V-8 engine.

So there you have it, the Auto VIN Decoder. If you are in the market for a used vehicle, use this decoder to make sure that it is indeed the exact model that the seller is claiming it is. Once you have verified the Vehicle Identification Number is accurate, you can proceed with your VIN check and learn everything you need to know about that particular car.

dotcentral · Post by **dotcentral** » February 12, 2008, 1:33 pm

I didn't make it up there to look yet. The place I go to marks the vehicle manf, model, and year on the car - not always correct on the year but with in a year or two usually. I'm sure they go by what's on the title or whatever the seller tells them, both of which can be wrong.

grabber64 · Post by **grabber64** » February 12, 2008, 4:46 pm

i went to the pull a part yard the other day. it looks like saturn didn't change much on their windows for like the last 15 years from what i had seen. you just need some metric hex headed bitsor allen keys, a hammer, a small chisel or punch, and some wire cutters at the minimum. the outer door shell comes off the frame. the two door cars look to be the same also. take one of your 12 or 18 volt drill battery packs with you to make sure it works. dont get your fingers in the way! some 70 era cars out there have some great swtiches that are chrome with bezels for surface mounting. i also think the help section of parts stores sell these indivdiually but are like ten bucks a pop.

the power door locks look really easy to convert on these also. go buy a 50 dollar box for keyless with the relay plus a bottle of tylenol for a headache and your set.

JFCDeuce · Post by **JFCDeuce** » February 12, 2008, 11:19 pm

Could you post a picture of the reverse side of the regulators? I'm curious about the brackets and the required clearance. Did you have to alter the regulator mounting depth to fit the motor inside the door? it looks like the motor is taking the place of the window crank handle, which is inside the truck... I may just need to pull mine out and look a little more closely...