I've been dealing with this stuff for 35 years. That's what the rear end ratio is... it's number of turns of the driveshaft to one turn of the axle. The reason for 2 turns of the tire is in the way that a differential works.. if it can't turn both tires, it'll turn the one at twice the rate. Give it...

Thanks for the warning. How far did you tow?

If you have an open diff... get one tire off the ground, rotate the tire TWO turns while counting the driveshaft revolutions. That will be the ratio. If locking differential... get both tires off of the ground and turn the axle ONE turn while counting the driveshaft revolutions. That will be the rat...

The handle for a 66 Mustang will work.. and they're easy to find. It's offset from center, but still looks fine. You'll have to drill the hole for the pin.

Great pics! thanks for posting. It's only 4 hours away for me, but I couldn't make it this year.

I haven't found a parking brake handle for my 66 either. It looks like a 66 Mustang handle will work.. and they're plentiful. I will try that if they're not reproduced for our trucks.

Normally you'd drive the pin out through the other side, but there's only one hole on the original handle. I used a die grinder to split the plastic and broke it off using a screwdriver. That'll expose the pin where you can either grab it with vice grips or drive it out with a punch. Of course you'l...

I got the 2-speed motor from a 70's truck and the delay module from an early 80's truck. I wired it together on the work-bench and made sure everything works. The diagram below is for a Mustang, but the 70's wiper motor from the truck was wired the same. When I actually install it into my truck, I'l...

That's a great kit... I bought mine from MustangSteve.com for my 66 mustang, but ended up using it on my 66 F100. If you can tack weld, it's pretty easy to install yourself.

Here's the link: http://www.mustangsteve.com/clutchbearings.html

As part of your test, you can check that the regulator has 5v output (with 12v input).

ahhh... I forgot about the Bendix being smaller. I just mounted a Saginaw box and will tackle the column next. I'll need to shorten it and I guess bend the shift levers to accomodate the shorter shaft. Glad to know that the conversion is worth it.

Looks like you didn't have to bend the shift levers. Did you have to shorten the steering column?

Yes, sanding and buffing the flattened clear will affect the gloss (I've done it). The flattening agent (solids) float to the top in the clear as it dries, and you end up sanding into the solids.. which affects gloss. It's usually best to re-clear the whole piece after sanding. With that said... it ...

Yes! I'm assuming the firewall pad is lined with jute... the the dynamat-like stuff will compliment it by absorbing different frequencies and adding to the insulation. I used B-Quiet Ultimate on my Mustang and have just bought more for my truck. On another note... Where did you get the firewall pad ...

The problem with the Home Depot foil backed insulation is that it's just not heavy enough to stop vibration. Dynamat is great, but expensive. I used B-Quiet ultimate in my Mustang whch worked great. I will use it again in my 66 F100 when I get the cab back on.

I made a bracket and mounted the prop valve under the m/c like you're proposing. I coiled each brake line like the factory, but it looks like a mess with 3 coils of brake line going to the valve. I'm thinking to move the valve down to the cross member like I've seen on later trucks. Also, I'm wonder...

I have a $300 Custom Autosound in my 66 Mustang. It looks good, but it sucks as a radio. The FM tuner is absolutely terrible. This time around, I'm cutting the dash on my F100 and going modern for half the price.

My understanding is that a chrome shop will also straighten the bumper.. but I doubt it would be any cheaper than $400.

You want to be sure that the final position of the bottom rod is so that it is pushing straight on the clutch fork (in line with the trans). In other words, if the zbar is too high, the rod will push down on the clutch fork instead of straight back. This will cause wear on the bearing retainer and p...

It should come out the way you describe. If you don't need to replace the switch, are you removing it to paint? If so, you can tape it up carefully and continue. I've done it both ways and the taped one looks just as good.