I have a complete 64 rust free cab in the corner of my shop gathering dust. I would trade it for a BBW window section with glass and trim. Or $$$ I am in Portland Or so shipping may be of concern to some extent check with us ship.

I lowered mine by putting in 3/4 ton spring pockets and cutting 1 turn out of the spring, I then had roughly a 4-5 in drop that works great with little outlay of cash.

what frontend are you using? I have great clearance with boss exhaust manifolds on my 4.6 but I am using a crown vic suspension

Although Ford may have never made one, that doesnt mean that the selling dealership didnt add the accessories on the truck and sell it as a "California Special" package. Dealers still do it to this day and with so much more aftermarket items to choose from it can drive a partsman crazy whe...

too bad you were not closer as I have a couple rust free 65/66 core supports and a few sets of inner fenders as well

Tractor paint works great, you are limited to color choices, it lays down nice. The way I look at it is look how a john deere looks after 20 years of non waxing and field work. Now on the other side of the coin, if you have all that time and money invested in getting the metal ready, do you want to ...

Hawkrod is correct, I thought I was pretty lucky to have found the complete set up to correctly bend the beams on ebay a couple years ago for a whopping 50.00 was 100.00 in shipping because of the weight but well worth it as it has paid for itself many times.

I can agree with both sides of the argument. If the truck is stock without the addition of modern electrical items, i.e. gauges, sound systems, alarms, etc. then a good original harness checked properly and completly would be the way to go. However, if newer accessories are in use on the vehicle, I ...

I have don this as well in the past with customer cars. To save cost we only have the front coated as no one see's the rear. On the rear we either paint or undercoat. We do this with chrome as well and cuts the cost in half, If I were doing the wheel's I would do just tha front as well.

I have 2 62 birds, one is the wifes the other is parts, the seats will fit but like what was said the srtato-lonuger seat is worth big $$$ the guy I got my parts bird from threw in a extra one as he didnt know any better. My future "Ultimate" slick project, you know the one we all want to ...

Is that the original grille? I had a 1959 and it was not cubed pattern for lack of better terms, it had 5 or so horizontal bars running across and if I remember right the 1960 had 1 big bar between the lights

I bought one off of e__y works great

the 88 does not have the removable x-member as the newer models do, not to say it wouldnt work its a question of how much work do you want to do. For 350 you can get the newer x-member complete and not have a pile around for the wife to complain about

what year is it?

Gap is the distance between the the contacts on the points. Dwell is the angle in which they open. Also remember that dwell can change timing. As for the flooding it sounds as if there is a needle and seat problem or if that checks out yyour fuel pump may be putting out to much pressure forcing the ...

I have one out of a 65 not sure if you can make it work or not as the mounting is different

We are moving to Molalla in a couple of weeks so it may be a very strong maybe...

sent pm...have you planned what steering column you are going to use yet?

I must agree with this, I would also suggest pulling the front sheetmetal as an assembly as this makes it real easy and it is not that hard to pull the clip. I would also suggest replacing all your hoses and having the radiator flushed and rodded to ensure free flow for your new motor. Not to make m...