will a 67 brake pedal switch work on a 66?

greenindian · Post by **greenindian** » November 19, 2009, 8:25 am

I have a 66 F100 2wd with the old style pressure brake switch (and is now not working) and was wondering if the 67 (one year only) styled brake switch would work in my truck. Does anyone know if it it will install on the pedal at the bump stop? Has anyone used this style switch before in their slicks?

Thanks

Damon

Post by **Greg D** » November 19, 2009, 3:01 pm

If it is similar to the Mustang (and about everything else) switch it will work with the proper rod (has the flat area on the back) it should work.
Big PITA to get installed and working - used one on my Uni.
When I have it to do over again I will use a GM style plunger switch.

aeromech · Post by **aeromech** » November 20, 2009, 7:58 pm

I used a late model Ford Truck plunger type electric switch and drilled a hole in the mount bracket for the pedals (instrument panel removal required). The hole is positioned just forward of where the rubber bumper of the brake pedal contacts the mount bracket. This gets it up out of the way of all the clutter extending under the dash and has worked out so well I have converted 2 other slicks to this configuration and will do my Bronco when I get time. Hydraulic switches work harden the internal diapham and eventually the switch only works with very high brake pedal pressure. The switch on the brake master cylinder rod as is stock on early Bronco and Mustangs suffers the same problem-work hardening of the leaf spring eventually leads to no brake lights without very high brake pedal pressure. The trap is brake lights don't work in normal use where you apply light pressure in normal driving but when you check them and really stomp on the pedal they seem to work fine but that amount of pressure in normal driving would smoke the tires! Great recipe for a rear end collision.

Missouri66 · Post by **Missouri66** » November 23, 2009, 2:02 pm

Aero - using the plunger switch under the dash sounds like a nice clean fix. What did you have to remove to get that in? Do you have a picture of it?

aeromech · Post by **aeromech** » November 24, 2009, 1:23 am

Just need to remove screws holding instrument panel to dashboard and reach around to unscrew speedo cable from speedometer to allow instrument panel to be pulled back to provide access to drill the required hole in the bracket that runs from the fire wall to the steering column support at the bottom of the dash ( the suport also provides the cross shaft bearings that the brake and clutch pedals pivot on). None of the 3 I have done required wires to be disconnected as there was enough slack although one required the harness to be released from the clamps at the base of the dash panel. Be sure to put a shop towel or otherwise protect the steering column from damage by the bottom of the instrument cluster, especially if it is the standard metal one. A right angle drill really makes the process easier. I will try to post photos.

greenindian · Post by **greenindian** » November 24, 2009, 7:47 am

Thanks, this is a big help. If you have any pictures, please post them because they will be a big help to me.

aeromech · Post by **aeromech** » December 19, 2009, 12:48 am

Will

attempt to post photos of plunger type bra

ke light switch installation.

Photos of the switch installed.

aeromech · Post by **aeromech** » December 19, 2009, 12:52 am

Bottom view if switch above brake pedal bumper (master cylinder rod disconnected so brake pedal is free to move).

aeromech · Post by **aeromech** » December 19, 2009, 1:09 am

The last photo from under the instrument panel appears that the rubber bumper on the brake pedal arm hits the white switch plunger but the switch is actually located forward of the bumper so the flat portion of the bumper bracket contacts the switch plunger. Adjustment is by securing the two pal nuts, one on top and one on the bottom with the switch in the correct location. I have mine adjusted to allow me to show the brake lights by light pressure on the brake pedal before actually applying much brake pressure. It is easiest to adjust with the instrument panel out but can be done from the bottom.

DV65CustomCab · Post by **DV65CustomCab** » December 19, 2009, 8:26 am

How I did mine:

I removed the rubber stopper and used that hole to mount the switch/bracket. The switch now acts as the stopper. I used a GM switch because that's what I found, but I'm going to replace it with a Ford switch that uses the metal nut to secure it. What I've found is that the nylon threads on the GM switch aren't sturdy enough to hold the switch in place in the dopey little metal sleeve GM uses when it's used as a pedal stop. I just added some wire leads and used bullet connectors to attach the new switch to the existing harness, so I didn't have to cut anything.