If I can salvage the block at least, I’ll be happy. The heads were trash from the start, they’re the one’s that were only put on t-birds for one year due to issues with detonation, and I don’t care to keep em. If I can save the block and part of the guts, then it’s not a total loss. Like I said, I can’t see any external damage, and if in fact a rod snapped, it did it at a low RPM, probably less than 1000RPM, so I’m keeping my fingers crossed, that it didn’t have enough velocity to do a whole lot of damage.blackagatha wrote:if you're looking for water in the cylinders, pull the spark plugs First, and check for water.
If you pull the head first, you WILL dump water into them and foul up your investigation.
If it were mine, I'd just yank it out, not screwing around with in truck teardown, and rip it apart. Sounds like you've got major damage, might be able to salvage the crank, few rods and pistons, and Most of the valve train, and one head.... maybe the block....
My slick is dead!!!!!
- stevechaos13
- Posts: 98
- Joined: October 3, 2008, 4:30 pm
- Location: Lewisville, TX
-
blackagatha
- Posts: 2582
- Joined: March 10, 2007, 12:49 am
- Location: Arizona
well, a low rpm rod break most likely wouldn't go clear thru the block, but just crack the cylinder and open the water jacket.
Seeing what happened to my brother's 302 though, I would think it would take more than a stuck valve to snap a rod.
He had an extreme lean on the freeway through Yuma a few years ago on one side of his carb when it got plugged up due to faulty SPECTRE fuel filter.
It caused 4 of the cylinders on the dual plane pattern (2 outside, 2 inside) to fry the exhaust seats, which all popped out of the heads due to iffy machine work that OUR machinist was afraid of. They rattled around inside the cylinders, embedded in the pistons, bounced back up the intake, and made a general disaster. But the block and bottom end was fine..... Go figure. And all this happened at like 80....
Seeing what happened to my brother's 302 though, I would think it would take more than a stuck valve to snap a rod.
He had an extreme lean on the freeway through Yuma a few years ago on one side of his carb when it got plugged up due to faulty SPECTRE fuel filter.
It caused 4 of the cylinders on the dual plane pattern (2 outside, 2 inside) to fry the exhaust seats, which all popped out of the heads due to iffy machine work that OUR machinist was afraid of. They rattled around inside the cylinders, embedded in the pistons, bounced back up the intake, and made a general disaster. But the block and bottom end was fine..... Go figure. And all this happened at like 80....
'63 with 390 & lots of juice. But never enough. Always want more.






Go for it. The engine problem sounds like it might be serious. Lots of good advice above. Since you have other issues with the truck this seems like a good time to tear into it and make it the way you want it.This is the last straw on this thing, and I'm going to tear it down and put everything back like it should be.
Afterall, it's going to be sitting for awhile while I try to fund a rebuild or even another engine.
Get lots of coffee cans or other containers to keep everything in, take lots of notes, take pictures if you have a digital camera, and find a good place to store all the stuff you take apart. Sounds like this might take a little time. I always think I will remember where those bolts came from but a month later they all look the same. Good Luck..
66 F-100 Shortbed 2wd
78 F-250 Supercab 4x4
87 F-150 Supercab 4x4
And a bunch of other stuff.
78 F-250 Supercab 4x4
87 F-150 Supercab 4x4
And a bunch of other stuff.
You haven't changed the waterpump lately have you?
The reason I ask is there is a hiccup that has burned a few Torino guys.
The bolt on the front of the WP below the discharge tube can pass thru too deep if you don't use a washer on the bolt.
It cracks the cover and there is a chain guide rib that eventually falls off into the chain.
Your engine failure doesn't sound like that is the issue but I wanted to point it out since its locked up.
When you reassemble the engine make sure the builder or your self adds the washer(s). Its not a bolt around the perimeter of the WP, its one of the inner ones that is around 4oclock on the pump.
Sorry about the loss.
Your about to exp the 385 series learning curve. Been there done that and I am still a novice.
Nick Bruno's forum is a good place to start:
http://www.429-460.com/forum.htm
Research on here too:
www.460ford.com
When you get to buying parts Adny Brown at D&D is a good vendor.
Hit me up via email if I can help
pmpaskvan AT gmail.com
The reason I ask is there is a hiccup that has burned a few Torino guys.
The bolt on the front of the WP below the discharge tube can pass thru too deep if you don't use a washer on the bolt.
It cracks the cover and there is a chain guide rib that eventually falls off into the chain.
Your engine failure doesn't sound like that is the issue but I wanted to point it out since its locked up.
When you reassemble the engine make sure the builder or your self adds the washer(s). Its not a bolt around the perimeter of the WP, its one of the inner ones that is around 4oclock on the pump.
Sorry about the loss.
Your about to exp the 385 series learning curve. Been there done that and I am still a novice.
Nick Bruno's forum is a good place to start:
http://www.429-460.com/forum.htm
Research on here too:
www.460ford.com
When you get to buying parts Adny Brown at D&D is a good vendor.
Hit me up via email if I can help
pmpaskvan AT gmail.com
Someday I'll get another slick 


- stevechaos13
- Posts: 98
- Joined: October 3, 2008, 4:30 pm
- Location: Lewisville, TX
Thanks for all the advice guys. I really appreciate the support and offers to lend knowledge and helping hands. You know, every since I’ve bought this truck, I’ve been waiting on something like this to happen. It was just a matter of time really, I just wish it would have happened back when I actually had the money to fix it. Now it’s gonna be awhile. I figure I’m going to pull the front clip and then the engine. I want to make a few frame mods, reinforcemnts, and such and clean up the firewall and all. I’m not sure if it would be more productive for me to try to rebuild this engine, or just find another one and throw it in. I mean, I should be able to get a hold of a decent donor vehicle for around 1k. or at least a motor for somewhere in the neighborhood of 600.
Even if I don’t try to salvage this engine, I will still be tearing it apart to try to figure out what happened.
I’m really leaning towards an oiling problem.
It’ll be a couple of weeks before I can make it back out to it, and I might spend that time working on my lead sled 49 Mopar. I’m undecided as of yet, but we’ll see. I am very curious what the culprit is, and what’s inside. This will be my first teardown on an engine…
Even if I don’t try to salvage this engine, I will still be tearing it apart to try to figure out what happened.
I’m really leaning towards an oiling problem.
It’ll be a couple of weeks before I can make it back out to it, and I might spend that time working on my lead sled 49 Mopar. I’m undecided as of yet, but we’ll see. I am very curious what the culprit is, and what’s inside. This will be my first teardown on an engine…
http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/1614917844.html
This guy has possibilities
The 69 block has a thick wall casting and the 73 heads were a lower compression version of the high performance heads. They are great for a truck.
Tech
This guy has possibilities
The 69 block has a thick wall casting and the 73 heads were a lower compression version of the high performance heads. They are great for a truck.
Tech
- stevechaos13
- Posts: 98
- Joined: October 3, 2008, 4:30 pm
- Location: Lewisville, TX
I've actually been looking at that motor a lot lately. Too bad I don't have the cash to spring for it right now, and he's coming though next week.Tech wrote:http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/1614917844.html
This guy has possibilities
The 69 block has a thick wall casting and the 73 heads were a lower compression version of the high performance heads. They are great for a truck.
Tech
