Cab roof rust question

[65 CREW]

Well I am back to work on the crew cab. The engine had some problems and I got fed up and had to take a break. The engine is now back running so it is on to other things.


I wire wheeled and painted the inside of the roof. What I found was this.



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I was planning on cutting patch panels out of a 64 parts truck. The problem is the roof on the parts truck is different. The crew cab is 1965 f350 with the step wells in the cab, the parts truck is a 1/2 ton but it also has the step wells in the cab.

The crew cab has a drip rail that goes all the way around the cab, the parts truck does not. What year and model of cab do I need to look for in order to get the right roof line? Or is this something peculiar to a crew cab.

[DV65CustomCab]

65-66 trucks or ones without the steps have a taller roof.

[Brian Taylor]

It may be a bit more tedious but less involved if you just use fresh metal and make patch pieces. I had the same rust in my 66 standard cab. It took about 3 panels to fix above the drivers rail. The drip rail on mine had some holes but they were small enough to just spot weld. With the curve of the roof line I could not make a single piece that would contour correctly. Hope this helps.

[65 CREW]

Thanks for the replies. My drip rails are good. As it tuns out I can't use much of the parts truck I bought, oh well.

I am still not sure how I want to tackle this.

[fire truck]

The roof is a crew cab only piece, and they are the same on the 250 without steps and the 350 with steps. I have both. I'm looking at van roofs to replace one of mine.

[William-in-St George]

You could try some 14 gage sheet metal and body cement/glue on the larger holes and brass brazing on the smaller holes. Little TLC with the grinder and a bit of bondo and it should be good. You can get the body epoxy at any auto body supply store. Most modern cars are all glued togeather now days. Lot easier than cutting out patch panels and welding them in, IMHO!