Resonance problem in cab
Resonance problem in cab
I have a freshly rebuilt 351w and I'm running a dual exhaust with an h-pipe and 2 flowmaster mufflers. At idle to about 1500 RPM, I have an unbearable resonance (vibration) in the cab. Has anyone had this issue and solved it? I realize I should have used two slightly different sized mufflers, but since they are welded on now, I'm hoping there is another way to solve this
Last edited by cosmo on December 1, 2010, 7:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I have Thrush Welded.. almost like a flowmaster.. just more of a old school sound .. but same drone. The Vibrations in my truck were coming from the roof panels.. door skins.. back of the cab and the center hump...
My fix...
I wrapped the following products.. used both.. same results.
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Mater ... ogId=10053
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Mater ... ogId=10053
the stuff lays down great and looks good.. until someone slides a few rims across it.. as happened to the floor there... o well its gonna be covered up by the mat and carpet.
around my center hump... applied it in strips to the rear of the cab.. and put 2 strips on either side of the cab roof from front to back.. and then one going from left to right.. with about a 6 inch gap in the center. Applied 3 strips to the door skins. ( pull the access panel out and apply to the inside of the door skin)
You would not believe the difference it made.. and I didnt have carpet, headliner or any upholstery. . according to my iphone it was 28 decibels quiter.. in my book thats alot. plus the cab just sounds more solid.. not a hollow can.. especially when closing doors.. its a clink.. rather then a klangalanalanalangoooing .. you know what im talking about.
I also picked up a pre cut floor sound mat from LMC last year .. it fits down under the carpet... Havent installed it yet.. but cant imagine what it will be like with it , carpet, and headliner.
now, I had my exhaust dumped just pass the cab with the tips about 9 inches pass the rear of the cab.. yours may be a bit different.. but you should be able to get similar results.


My fix...
I wrapped the following products.. used both.. same results.
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Mater ... ogId=10053
http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Mater ... ogId=10053
the stuff lays down great and looks good.. until someone slides a few rims across it.. as happened to the floor there... o well its gonna be covered up by the mat and carpet.
around my center hump... applied it in strips to the rear of the cab.. and put 2 strips on either side of the cab roof from front to back.. and then one going from left to right.. with about a 6 inch gap in the center. Applied 3 strips to the door skins. ( pull the access panel out and apply to the inside of the door skin)
You would not believe the difference it made.. and I didnt have carpet, headliner or any upholstery. . according to my iphone it was 28 decibels quiter.. in my book thats alot. plus the cab just sounds more solid.. not a hollow can.. especially when closing doors.. its a clink.. rather then a klangalanalanalangoooing .. you know what im talking about.
I also picked up a pre cut floor sound mat from LMC last year .. it fits down under the carpet... Havent installed it yet.. but cant imagine what it will be like with it , carpet, and headliner.
now, I had my exhaust dumped just pass the cab with the tips about 9 inches pass the rear of the cab.. yours may be a bit different.. but you should be able to get similar results.


Two years ago I sounproofed (dampened) my entire cab with dynamat. I pulled everything out including the tank and layed it over the entire cab. Once that was done all those kind of problems went away. And, like 65fordguy said, The whole cab seems more snug and solid.
Love those little square trucks
64 F100 short cust. cab
Custom built Harley FXSTC
2000 supercharged Bonneville
64 F100 short cust. cab
Custom built Harley FXSTC
2000 supercharged Bonneville
- Alan Mclennan
- Posts: 9324
- Joined: October 14, 2006, 6:16 pm
- Location: In the shed... Cranebrook NSW

I`d check the gap between the back of the cab and the brace the top of the tank fix`s to!, squirt some sikaflex in there! and do as shortie did.
Honey, If I say I`ll fix something I will, there`s no need to remind me every 6 months!!
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
66 f100 tabletop swb 351 Clevo C6 "Beryl"
Slick Stock 3 KCMO
Slick Stock 4 Altoona
Slick Stock 5 KCMO
Slick Stock 6 Altoona
Slick Stock 7 Salina KS
Slick Stock 8..............................
-
Brian Taylor
- Posts: 1469
- Joined: August 18, 2009, 3:52 pm
- Location: Dallas , Texas
- Contact:

both times I used Flowmasters I had the same droan with different vehicles. I have found with the slick the two rear corners make nice speakers for any under body sound, the doors are big drums too. And any loose braces need to be insulated.
I used the same Home Depot foil backed insulation throughout my truck and added jute backed insulation in the floor, rear of cab and the headliner (whenever I make one).
Mufflers are best installed to the rear of the system to not have it under the cab. Make sure to use good rubber insulators at any hanging point for the system too.
I used the same Home Depot foil backed insulation throughout my truck and added jute backed insulation in the floor, rear of cab and the headliner (whenever I make one).
Mufflers are best installed to the rear of the system to not have it under the cab. Make sure to use good rubber insulators at any hanging point for the system too.
1966 Ford F-100 LWB 300
- Uncle Skip
- Posts: 4695
- Joined: July 15, 2006, 8:30 pm
- Location: Pearland, Texas

Just got back to Texas and saw this post.
Yea me.
Yes.
Insulate your cab.
But I think the answer is to install an H-pipe on your duals.
Goes a long way to help quiet down the exhaust.
I have Flowmaster 40's and I love the sound.
But I have the same problem at 55 mph that will be cured with the H-pipe crossover as soon as I get the truck running again.
U@ss
Yea me.
Yes.
Insulate your cab.
But I think the answer is to install an H-pipe on your duals.
Goes a long way to help quiet down the exhaust.
I have Flowmaster 40's and I love the sound.
But I have the same problem at 55 mph that will be cured with the H-pipe crossover as soon as I get the truck running again.
U@ss
I'm not arguing with you. I'm just explaining why I'm right.
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Pardon me. Does your deaug bite?
Thanks everyone....what I did was...
When I painted the truck in 2008, I put that home-depot stuff in the cab. My floor and roof are completely covered with it. I only put a few strips behind the gas tank. (I should have put more I guess). I DID NOT put any in the doors or in the cab corners. I will do that ASAP. I may even put some under the bed. The exhaust tips dump down before the rear axle, but aft of the cab. I may be getting some "reflection waves" from the ground that are resonating the bed floor... When I solve it, I let you know what worked
Here is a GREAT site to learn a bit more about this subject:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi[/url]
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi[/url]

