Door question... PLEASE HELP... Any suggestions welcomed!

[cwindsor]

Add me to the list of door issues... I swear I worked on the doors for 2 hours straight and would get close but then it wont latch.
I loosen all the bolts had someone align the body lines and tighten the doors and then it would grab the fender... I tried to loosen the high and align the door and tighten them and same thing...

Here are some questions and pleas don't give me the body lines are different on the 66 doors compared to the 61 door.

But is the Doors the exact same size from a 61 to 66 door...? Besides the dog leg in the door...?
Should I be using the 66 door hinges on my 61 truck? Is it just trial and error?
I know the doors that used to be on the truck shut and close pretty good so that is telling me that there is no bad post or bend frame.

I am just stuck... I was trying to get the doors on the truck to get it to the body man to paint and can't do it.

[charliemccraney]

I haven't had to deal with door alignment yet, but the striker also has an adjustment. When you have the door adjusted so that it looks like it is lining up well, try adjusting the striker.
The later door hinges are nice because they hold the door open but I don't think that you have to use them and I don't believe they are a direct bolt on for the earlier cabs - I think some trimming is required.

[cwindsor]

Will a 66 door fit on a 61 unibody cab?

[Uncle Skip]

First thing I'd do is loosen the fenders and core support and pull the entire dog house forward.
Most of the problems on these trucks come from the age on the hinges..... they all sag. You have to pick the back of the door up past level and tighten it down so that it sits level and latches when it closes.
The gap on the front between the door and fender is adjusted by moving the fenders back and forward.
It takes two people.
Loosen all the bolts attaching the fenders to the body.
Two hidden bolts in each fender to look for. One in the kick panel (top where the opening is under the dash), one under the door at the bottom of the body (I'd take this one completely out).
The inner fender is attached to the firewall with an L-shaped bracket, and the bottom of the inner fender is attached to the firewall at the bottom with a rubber strap. Then, the core support has two large bolts just outside the radiator brackets. Get everything lose, pull forward on the entire assembly and you should have enough movement to adjust for your doors to close properly.

[cwindsor]

Skip...


Will the 66 door fit the 61 cab besides the body line in the door on the outside?

[Shaffs 64]

I have a 1964 with the doors off right now ready to go to the sandblaster......... Would you want me to measure the door I have and give that to you? would that help.

Jeff

[cwindsor]

I have a 1964 with the doors off right now ready to go to the sandblaster......... Would you want me to measure the door I have and give that to you? would that help.

Jeff

I was told just now that people have seen 64+ doors on 61 -63 bodies... So I thank you in advance on the offer...

But I think I just got some hope!

[huckdeuceman]

I had the same issue on my truck!, worked on it for at least 6 hours and then decided to loosen all the hinge bolts on the
door, top and bottom just enough to move it with a little pressure and did the same with the striker plate, then closed the door real slow and easy till it shut all the way and opened it up ''easy'',then snugged the bolt's..all is well now!
Good luck...

[William-in-St George]

I recently had my door hinges re-built. A local machinest installed cheeeveee valve guide liners in the hinges, reamed them to fit new pins I bought at Fastenall and that really helped. Made a big difference in the work involved with lining up the doors. I do the doors with the fenders and core loose. Once the doors are perfect in the cab opening (without latches or gaskets) I bring the fenders and core support back. Use WD-40 on the core rubbers so they slide. Shim the inner fenders between the three large bolts and the cab for a good fender/hood fit. Takes patience. Tape any freshly painted surfaces so you don't chip a new paint job. When everything is to your liking, mark and pull the doors for new seals. Then re-install and adjust the latch. Kind of a big PITA, but worth it. IMHO!

[Uncle Skip]

To answer your question, yes, the door will fit in the opening. The body line on the exterior skin does not match up Uni to standard cab, but the doors do fit.

[longcabjohn]

To properly align door, first remove striker,with bolts loose close door align with hole tighten hinges. To get completely right, looosen hinges one at a time just enough that will slide with pressure and bump hinge with hammer, check and repeat as needed. If door needs raising I sit on rocker put pressure on door with legs hit down on hinge with hammer. Align door to body then fender to door. Replace striker where it will move under pressure but stay when released, finish as with hinge. The star wheel in lock should be centered in striker, add or remove shims to adchive. A little grease will serve as guide.


Johnny

[TonyC]

To properly align door, first remove striker,with bolts loose close door align with hole tighten hinges. To get completely right, looosen hinges one at a time just enough that will slide with pressure and bump hinge with hammer, check and repeat as needed. If door needs raising I sit on rocker put pressure on door with legs hit down on hinge with hammer. Align door to body then fender to door. Replace striker where it will move under pressure but stay when released, finish as with hinge. The star wheel in lock should be centered in striker, add or remove shims to adchive. A little grease will serve as guide.


Johnny

Thats the way I did it. Worked pretty darn well.

[oldtrucks]

1964 doors on a 1961 Short UNI Body

[Toyz]

Probably already checked, but how are your cab mounts?
I'm amazed to see Mike's pic; I have never seen those doors line up that well on a uni without body modifications.
Glad you posted that , Mike, it tells me how far I have to go to correct my panels, and also makes a good comparison to the Tangerine "hybrid" in another posting.
Paul