So some of you may remember that to put the flairside bed on the '09 CV chassis the wheelbase width was a lot wider than the original slick bed would accommodate, the width is really around 8"- 9" wider than the slick bed, to make the wheels fit under the fenders we cut the fenders lengthwise and widened the fender by 4" on each side.
Having never done this type of work before I made plenty of mistakes, welding the fenders back together they warped, they twisted, and they sunk towards the floor. I took what should have been a pretty straightforward process and royally screwed it up, but not being daunted I beat, cut, welded, and porta-powered the fenders until they fit as good as they were going to..... ground down all the welds, and applied a coat of "long hair" fiberglass followed by a coat of normal filler after leveling out the fiberglass.
If this was a shiny paint build the fender would have been either cut up again or scrapped for new ones, but for our purposes they work well enough and most people are none the wiser as to what we did. I don't purposely do bad work because it's a "Rust-o-mod" but being the type of build it is makes things very forgiving in the big picture.
Anyway during the process the flange that bolts to the bed had to be reinforced not just because of widening the fenders but the flanges were getting pretty thin from years of rust, all the bolt holes were reinforced and new struts were made to support the front and rear edges of the fenderwell opening.
After the fenders were fitted again all the paint was removed, etch primed, coat of black primer, and more minty green paint applied. The tires have pretty good clearance and driving the truck there isn't any tire contact but I haven't pulled the trailer with the fenders on yet so I may need to do a little more work once I see how that goes.
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Originally the bed steps I thought would have to be cut down because when I test fitted (mock-up) them they stuck out way too far for my liking, but a little trimming and cutting I got them to fit right up against the CV frame then welded the original support bracket (cut down) to the CV frame, the end result moved the step in so they only stick out less than 2" from the cab corner and look very well, we did have to drill new mounting holes in the fender to mount that side of the step but they are strong enough to jump up and down on....lol
And again the steps were removed, stripped down to bare metal, etched, primed, and painted, then reinstalled. The front of the fenders where the steps originally mounted was rotted away when the bed was disassembled, I cut the rotted area away and saved the wheel opening portion, I had intended to weld that portion back to give the wheel opening a finished look but decided against it in the end, if you go back to the beginning of this thread you'll see that this truck was build from a bunch of mismatched sheet metal that was heading for the scrapyard before we saved it and gave it a new life on this '09 CV P71.
It's really came a long way hasn't it...lol
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This is a really cheap digital volt meter we found on Amazon for less than $10 that fits the old ignition switch hole in the dash, looks great and is nothing special to wire up, it is the best solution I have found to add a bit of functionality to the dash while pluggin the hole left from the body swap on this build since we are using the original CV column.
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The doors have been lettered with a new design twice only to be sanded back off (we just didn't like the look) the truck now has the exact same logo that was applied to the other two trucks being painted.
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The current project is making frame to bumper mounts and get the front bumper mounted that should be finished in a day or so, the wife has work scheduled for the next couple weeks so the truck can go outside and sit in the weather to age the paint...lol
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Jon




