Eliminate points

[Johnny Canuck]

does anyone know which is actually better?

the pertronix or the duraspark?

I used Duraspark 'cause it was from the factory.

[blackagatha]

I know what I'm gonna get when it comes time... I discovered Carroll Shelby's FE website... They sell a fancy HEI type distributor that looks totally cool, made by Shelby so you know it's good, and it's only $212.... Like WTF that's CHEAP!!! I suppose it's possible that was a typo, but hard telling...

[FordGuy]

Pappy,
There are at least two 6 cylinder options listed by Pertronix, so you should be able to get one to work. By the way, does anyone know what the major difference is between the Ignitor & Ignitor II? Also, Grabber64 recommended Crane, which I have also seen advertised. Are there any real differences between them or should I just go for the cheapest and spend the rest on beer?

[douglloyd]

After reading this far, I have to say I'm a lot more willing to tackle this conversion than before.

Posts like these keep me reading this list first thing every morning.

Where else can you get good info on stuff we all run into while trying to keep these trucks on the road.

I know, I know, this is starting to sound like some damn "feel the love" crap, but you guys rock!

thanks,
Doug

[Macon ACE]

After reading this far, I have to say I'm a lot more willing to tackle this conversion than before.

Posts like these keep me reading this list first thing every morning.

Where else can you get good info on stuff we all run into while trying to keep these trucks on the road.

I know, I know, this is starting to sound like some damn "feel the love" crap, but you guys rock!

thanks,
Doug

Amen! Posts on this site encouraged me to eliminate the points on my '64. I've had the '68 XL for 23 years and never really considered doing it to that car. But now - when I finally get it back on the road - it'll be pointless, too!

[ICEMAN6166]

i like the points , been using them so long i can just about eyeball the .017 gap.
never had a dizzy chew any up and never paid $35 for set and i always get standard ignition's blue streak points.

if the dizzy is eating points there is something else wrong.

convert as you wish i have no issue with doing it but i prefer to have something i can replace easily and immediately if needed.

[FordGuy]

I agree that there is something else wrong, but I have a number of FE Fords and many use up points quickly. I usually use Echlin HD sets, and if you can get them for much less than 35$ then they're cheaper in Alaska than Iowa.

[Greg D]

BTW Fordguy, that is one Gorgeous truck you have there!

[FordGuy]

Greg the Fordaholic,
I appreciate the kind words. Your '62 is super sharp. I love those old Uni's and of course I'm fond of the paint scheme.
I just got started on a Maverick project with my son, which makes a total of 5 Fords (if you include the '92 MarkVII) in my care. Obviously I need to start a 12 step program myself! Perhaps you could be my F.A. sponsor.
Here's a picture of my '68 GT. Bought it when I was 14.

[Greg D]

Wow, that is nice too! Thanks for your comments on my 62, it doesn't look near as good up close. I rattle canned it just to see if I was gonna like the paint job I designed for it. It will be coming apart here in the next week or two to get it ready for the Y block & Slick Stock.

[blackagatha]

My FE had a terrible time with the points. Not getting chewed up, but they kept going closed. Every time I drove between Prescott and Tucson they would start to go shut about 3/4 the way there. They did not like prolonged revs... back then was with the 3.89 rear too, so I was spinning prolly 4500-5000 rpm most of the way. I didnt want to overtighten/bust the little screw... I suppose I may have used some loctite, but that would have made a big old mess.

I havent EVER had to mess with the pertronix. Just put it in and forget about it.

[FordGuy]

Yeah, I can't keep the dwell set for any decent period, and then the contacts begin to burn on the edges as if they aren't aligned correctly. My old Torino has a full MSD system but I'd like to keep my truck looking stock under the hood.
I really appreciate your input. Once this last set of points goes to hell, I'm going to install a Pertronix setup.

[blackagatha]

dont wait. my truck runs better with the Pertronix that it EVER did with the points, even on it's best day.

[Michael Bryce Winnick]

The Mallory unilight system works real well too.

[randyr]

Yep both with pertronics and duraspark, bypass the pink wire off the ignition switch to the coil. It resists down to 6-7 volts instead of the full 12 v blast.

This has probably been covered a million times but I can't seem to find it anywhere.....I just got the Petronix Ignitor II and matching Flamethrower coil for my 66 F100 352. Which wire do I tap into on the ignition switch to give me the full 12v to the coil?
Thanks.

[6166 Junkyard Dog]

We tried Petronix set up, took it all back off and all 3 of our FE'S All run points,, I have seen those petronix units mess up and leave you strnded,, not from burning up but after awhile loose adjustment, now there great for higher RPM'S as where points can break down, of course I have never set a set of points by a feeler gauge done it by eye just like never used a timing light set it by ear some place in the garage is a new Snap-On that my son uses for his race car on Friday Nites,, just like I can walk up to a FE and tell if the distb. is in the wrong place,, remember is you have to get it to run and the vacum advance is slamed against the thermostat housing with no room to advance , dist is one tooth off ora dvance is all the way towards d/s inner fender one tooth in other dirrection in return can make it do other things than what its suppose to do, also ifvacum advance is notworking either. just take a clean hose . suck on the hose a little and see if it works with the cap off should work freely

[Johnny Canuck]

Yep both with pertronics and duraspark, bypass the pink wire off the ignition switch to the coil. It resists down to 6-7 volts instead of the full 12 v blast.

This has probably been covered a million times but I can't seem to find it anywhere.....I just got the Petronix Ignitor II and matching Flamethrower coil for my 66 F100 352. Which wire do I tap into on the ignition switch to give me the full 12v to the coil?
Thanks.

I bypassed the pink wire right at the ignition switch ... If I recall correctly it's the "run" wire. Goes from the ign. switch inside to the firewall, where it changes colour after it exits the plug at the firewall. Not sure what colour it is on the engine side, but it is not a resistor on that side anyway, so it doesn't matter. You just need to bypass the inside the cab wiring, although you could run it direct from the switch to the coil, I believe. The pink wire on mine was insulated with a cloth-like material for a lot of it's run in the cab, look for the insulated wire.

Been a few years since i did this so I hope I am not leaving anything out.

[Jerry D]

I have to say that I absolutely love the Ignitor products. Truck seems to run better, and no more points to adjust/replace. I ran a Pertronix Ignitor for years on the 351M that was in my truck. No problems at all. Acutally gave a friend the unit when I junked the engine. Put an Ignitor II on the 300 six, and it failed just inside of the warranty period. Summit replaced it FOC. The answer to the concern about it stranding you due to failure, is to keep the old points in the glovebox with a screwdriver. I learned this the hard way, as the lack of a screwdriver cost me a $75 tow.

Jerry D

[ICEMAN6166]

one ready to go for sale ,

http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=10270

[BarnieTrk]

FordGuy,

By the way, I really like the sign above your garage door!
I wish I could find one like that....!
BarnieTrk