Tinnerman Brake Drum Screws?

Hoss123 · Post by **Hoss123** » May 31, 2008, 9:49 pm

Have a '64 F250 and I'm trying to take the brake drums off. They have those 3 flush mounted tinnerman screws on the face of each drum. I got the rear drum ones loose with considerable effort (penetrator, very large screw driver and an impact driver for some of them). None of the screws on the front drums will budge though. Impact has no effect.

First, anyone else have this problem and a solution?

Second, before I drill them out, if that's what I end up having to do, does anyone know where I can get replacements?

Thanks...

slick4x4 · Post by **slick4x4** » May 31, 2008, 10:16 pm

heat up the heads with torch till glows, let cool a minute
then do it again, a couple of times.
when they cool down a bit , squirt with wd-40 , or if you
can get some, KROIL, that stuff is GREAT.

jecsd1 · Post by **jecsd1** » May 31, 2008, 10:23 pm

what is a tinnerman screw?

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » June 1, 2008, 6:20 am

Smoke wrench sounds like a good idea........................

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » June 1, 2008, 9:25 am

helps to have a giant screwdriver,i have one 2 foot long with a nice square shank to put a wrench on.with a can of PB blaster, that is my main way of getting them off.
avoid the torch or be extremely careful or you will mess up the drum.
i have drilled several sets out, drill just enough so the head is less than the hole, that leaves a nub that can be gripped after the drum is off.
the screws are not special, i bought replacement ones in the hardware store, i had to cut the length down a bit but they worked perfectly.
you can also get allen head(hex) screws in the same shape if you have a source.
when you install the new ones use anti seize.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » June 1, 2008, 9:34 am

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » June 1, 2008, 12:03 pm

the best way and correct way is to have a Hand held impact driver. you put your bit in the end and smack it with a BFH the impact and the hammer itself force the screw to turn. you need to make sure the tool is set to loosen as well. I wish I had a pic of one. they were made for these screws and work for other screws/bolts that are like this. I dont know if you can get one at your local part stores, maybe napa or car quest can get one. but its the right way to get them off. they are screwed through the drums surface into the center hub

jakdad · Post by **jakdad** » June 1, 2008, 12:47 pm

He used the impact driver. It didn't work on the tough ones. I think Craig steered him in the right direction.

Hoss123 · Post by **Hoss123** » June 1, 2008, 1:38 pm

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. I have tried the impact...no effect and PB with a very large screw driver. At least its good to know that I can find replacements. May try the heat thing before I drill them out. I'm not concerned about screwing up the drums cuz I'm getting new ones.

Thanks again

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » June 1, 2008, 2:45 pm

did he use this?

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... ir=catalog

or this?
I thought he meant this because of how it read, my bad

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... ir=catalog

Alan Mclennan · Post by **Alan Mclennan** » June 1, 2008, 6:53 pm

I`ve found if you hit it with the impact drive on tighten first then on loosen it jolts the bolt from its frozen position, the screws are usually damaged in the loosen direction so this gives the break free pressure against a good surface

does that make sense?

Alan,

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » June 1, 2008, 11:31 pm

what exactly is the purpose of these things? they were long since discarded before I met Aggie... I dont really see any purpose than to make life harder than it ought to be... kinda like the brass washers in the differential studs... I discarded them years ago and have never had any leakage issues...

cdherman · Post by **cdherman** » June 2, 2008, 7:03 am

Agree with above. Why keep them?

If you are SURE you don't care about the drum, then get a hammer and just bust the drum off. Its cast, and it wont talk back long.

Once the drum is off, I am sure that you'll be able to get more penetrating fluid around the screws, though I too would heat up stuff. I assume new bearings and seals are in order? If you heat the hub, you'll cook out the grease, FYI.

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » June 2, 2008, 9:04 am

they do serve some kind of purpose, lots of cars still have them today. I dont know what it is for, maybe to keep the drum true to the flange or in a specific location for balance. but they do serve some kind of purpose If I ever find out I will let youknow lol

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » June 2, 2008, 5:38 pm

yeah, for the time being I am going to continue to believe there is no point... I've never seen anything that had them (still)installed

shawns fords · Post by **shawns fords** » June 2, 2008, 6:01 pm

lots of imports have them, many ford Escorts. I cant list all of the brake jobs ive done but I can remember the first time I saw them and thought WTF are these for? I dont know what all comes with them today, I am thinking it has to do with the location on the hub because usually they arent all in the same position, like a flywheel or flexplate on an engine it has to go on a specific way. which leads me to believe it has something to do with the balancing process and how they are made to rotate together

frank66 · Post by **frank66** » June 2, 2008, 7:21 pm

I tack welded a piece of 1" flat stock to them and used a large adjustable wrench to twist them out. Then ground off the tack and reused them.

Johnny Canuck · Post by **Johnny Canuck** » June 2, 2008, 8:10 pm

I find cussing for 15 minutes straight and not using the same word twice helps.
Not the brake drums, just me.