Question on Disc Brake - F100

hombre292 · Post by **hombre292** » July 12, 2008, 6:10 pm

I am installing the disc brake conversion kit on a '64 Slick. My question - When I put my adjusting nut on, after I have packed wheel bearings, what do I torque it to ??

Then do I torque the Nut Retainer?? Please help me. I need it........

Hombre

cdherman · Post by **cdherman** » July 12, 2008, 9:33 pm

OK, no one has tackled this one, so hear goes...

What "adjusting nut" are you talking about?

If you are talking about the castle nut (looks like a crown, has slots for a cotter pin) at the end of the spindle then I don't know for sure what the correct torque is.

What "I" have done (not to say I know for sure) is to tighten down the castle nut while testing the wheel/hub for some spin. Once the castle nut is so tight that the wheel/hub is no longer spinning free, then back it off just enough to get the cotter pin through.

Aferwards, when I drive it the first few times, I feel the spindle and see if its really hot. If its too hot to touch, you have it too tight. A little hot is OK. Better yet is to lift the front end and spin the tires AND see if there is any looseness in the axel. Push the top of the tire in and out. If there is appreciable play, then its too loose.

I suspect that the shop manual has specific instructions about what I just described. It is what I have done based on what dad taught me..... Might be correct...

johnny · Post by **johnny** » July 12, 2008, 10:17 pm

well that sounds good to me i have always tightened the same way as cdhermanbut then i back it off just till the washer starts to move then find next tightest cotter pin hole john p.s thank god for DADS

Post by **Greg D** » July 12, 2008, 11:27 pm

We used to tighten it till there was drag (rotor wouldn't spin free but would turn) and then back it off 1/4 turn. Later model stuff has a torque rating (15 ft lbs for Rangers & Explorers for one example). I used the "old method" for my Uni's disc brakes, seems fine so far.