Which Brake Light Switch?

Gary Seymour · Post by **Gary Seymour** » July 11, 2008, 10:12 am

Is there a big advantage to using the pedal mounted brake light switch verses the master cylinder mounted pressure switch?

I will be adding disks and a dual m/c.

Slick Fan · Post by **Slick Fan** » July 11, 2008, 8:01 pm

I'd say it's just personal preference. I have the pressure switch on my disc brake '66 & it worked fine.

Putting it under the dash will clean up the engine bay a little more, though.

cdherman · Post by **cdherman** » July 11, 2008, 10:31 pm

I strongly recomend the later switch. The brake lights come on more quickly when adjsuted correctly, meaning the person behind you has more time to react to your brakes.

There have been long threads about this -- the later switch is generally held to be the safer option.

Do you want to be rear ended for authenticities sake?

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » July 12, 2008, 2:33 pm

i am not going to argue about this anymore.
i have trucks with both types, not worried about them working properly.

Gary Seymour · Post by **Gary Seymour** » July 12, 2008, 7:50 pm

Thanks, Iceman. That's kinda how I was feeling. The pressure switch quit working on me once, but after I put a new one in, it seems to light the lamps just fine. I'll keep it when I do the m/c and disk swap.

GLindley · Post by **GLindley** » July 13, 2008, 4:21 pm

Is there a dual pot MC that has the pressure switch on it? I haven't seen one. If not, then you are going to have to put a pedal mounted brake light switch on your truck when you go to the dual.

62galxe · Post by **62galxe** » July 13, 2008, 4:28 pm

read upgrading your brakes in the tech section.mounted the switch in a tee.

DV65CustomCab · Post by **DV65CustomCab** » July 13, 2008, 5:11 pm

All you need is a T fitting to use the pressure switch. Several options of switches are shown on my disc swap web page.

GLindley · Post by **GLindley** » July 13, 2008, 5:25 pm

I guess if I had my choice of installing a T fitting or a pedal switch, I'm installing a pedal switch.
Here is a LINK to Dwight's page on disc brake swap...

hombre292 · Post by **hombre292** » July 17, 2008, 10:26 am

How do you install the one on the pedal? I bought one, but have no directions. Thanks.

Hombre

Slick Fan · Post by **Slick Fan** » July 17, 2008, 11:33 am

hombre292 wrote:How do you install the one on the pedal? I bought one, but have no directions. Thanks.

Hombre

Here's some pics about halfway down this thread, for one style of switch; http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6228

GLindley · Post by **GLindley** » July 17, 2008, 11:49 am

There is also the one that Lance did...click HERE.

dwbr · Post by **dwbr** » July 17, 2008, 12:20 pm

thanks for that link, i remembered seeing that, but couldnt find it, my switch is slipping and wanted to fab something up, right now a good ol tye wrap is holding it in place,, got me through inspection!

GLindley wrote:There is also the one that Lance did...click HERE.

________
headshop

Lowell · Post by **Lowell** » July 17, 2008, 12:34 pm

I had to replace the pressure switch 2 or three times,they would stop working or you would have to really stand on the pedal to get the lights to come on. I made a bracket from sheet metal and hung it from the brace above the pedals. Drilled two holes in the brace to hang the bracket. bent the bracket in an L shape so that the pedal arm would bump the switch when not braking . I think the sw. was for a 68 ford and was adjustable . Worked out real well. Mine is a 65 by the way, earlier models may a little different under the dash.

jwh f-100 · Post by **jwh f-100** » July 17, 2008, 12:57 pm

Slick Fan wrote:
hombre292 wrote:How do you install the one on the pedal? I bought one, but have no directions. Thanks.

Hombre
Here's some pics about halfway down this thread, for one style of switch; http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6228

Not sure it will be helpfull but soon I am planning to post some measurements.

Gary Seymour wrote:Is there a big advantage to using the pedal mounted brake light switch verses the master cylinder mounted pressure switch?

I will be adding disks and a dual m/c.

IMO, I don't think so. Unless the driver behind you has reflexes like Barry Sanders I don't think the activation differences will be an issue. The reason I used the pedal mount was to try and clean up the engine compartment. No switch to look at and I'll have two less wires to worry about when I install my new bulkhead connector.

blackagatha · Post by **blackagatha** » July 17, 2008, 4:08 pm

Lowell wrote:I had to replace the pressure switch 2 or three times,they would stop working or you would have to really stand on the pedal to get the lights to come on.

same problem for me.... exactly. SO I chucked it. I probably should have used one of those newer switches, I used some funny thing for an old jimmy or something, lever action... but it works nicely. I may or may not be able to find a new one if it quits though...

Lowell · Post by **Lowell** » July 17, 2008, 8:41 pm

If i can get the hand of posting pictures i could take a couple of shots under the dash. The bracket is pretty simple , i drilled a large hole in one end for the switch and 2 smaller holes in the otther to mount . the switch is threaded with 2 nuts so it made it easy to set up. I think someone on here clamped theirs to the steering coulumn so that might be another approach.

Gary Seymour · Post by **Gary Seymour** » July 17, 2008, 9:17 pm

Yeah, I can see some advantages with less wires under the hood......

Roger Carter · Post by **Roger Carter** » August 2, 2008, 9:00 pm

I agree with those that say it comes down to personal preference. A method not mentioned is tapping the end on the dual master cylinder for 1/8" pipe and installing the pressure switch in the original location. I admit it is an effort, but I don't think it is anymore involved than installing a switch under the dash. I did this on a '66 15 years ago and have not had any problems since. Just a thought.
Roger Carter

johnny · Post by **johnny** » August 2, 2008, 10:17 pm

just my

i have noticed with a pressure switch ive been told my brake lights dont come on all the time when barely using them due to not having enough pressure takes upwards of 50-60 pounds to activate also and more important when im pulling my car trailer loaded the brakes on trailer dont activate till the brake lights on the truck come on so if im barely on the brake down a slight grade the trailer brakes arent working im going to try a low pressure switch suppose to activate at 20 pounds hopefully that will work if not next will be manual
john