Hey all:
I've been checkin out this forum with jealousy for the last year and I feel I'm finally ready to start sharin some of the photos and progress of my truck.
She's an early '64 250 that was original owner and was in great shape. I paid $2500 for it a year ago February and it was from the original owner in Southern California. Hardly any rust to be had on it. I always loved these trucks and just wanted a ranch truck with room for a gun rack. It was running great when I shipped it out from Cali but it needed either a new gas tank or a severe cleaning of the old one as it had been sitting for 11 years outside with no gas cap on the tank. I thought $200 wasn't bad for a new tank so I got one and ordered some Whimbledon White to paint it. Big mistake. When it went back in the truck it looked awesome and I realized I now had to do the whole truck.
I just finished reassembling the chassis after sandblasting and painting and I'm currently prepping the body to go to the dippers It will be mostly stock with the exception of the Chassis being painted as well as the chassis parts (POR 15 complete system).
I will have the truck painted the same Whibledon White only this time it will be a urethane BC/CC. Just about to send out the 292 for a complete rebuild as well as the Cruise-o-matic transmission (I might do that myself as I used to rebuild auto trannys). The electrical system is going to be all new wiring (alternator conversion) with additional circuits to provide power for cab running lights and a nice Peterbilt Air horn...but the radio will be stock. Custom interior will be done as well. I also ordered two classic Semi wire fans to be mounted on the ceiling of the cab.
Anyway, here is a link to a photobucket of my work so far. I'm scared to post it as I've seen the great work you guys do here.
http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss18 ... =slideshow
thanks
Progress on my '64 250
Progress on my '64 250
Proud to Be a Carbon Bigfoot
soda or dip
hoss, email me about local dippers, and blasters. i had a local dipper turn a beautiful 32 ford truck cab into swiss cheese because he forgot it in one of the baths over the weekend. i also have 2 numbers for a soda guy and another of a guy who uses a soft medium thats less then sand but harder then soda. sand can do damage in the wrong guys hands
'64 ford bbw custom cab short styleside bed
'32 ford 5 window body
'28 ford roadster pickup
'04 ford f150 crew cab short bed
'32 ford 5 window body
'28 ford roadster pickup
'04 ford f150 crew cab short bed
Thanks Tom
I've kicked around alot the best method to use and I know there are many opinions on how to get the paint off. I don't know if I will choose the right one as I know how big this debate is.
Originally I was scared off by dipping but most of the myths about that process are from the products used 10-15 years ago. Its now a three step process acid, neutral, inhibit. The two guys who talked me into acid run full time restoration shops in the Northwest (one of the guys has had two cars come in first place at Pebble Beach). They dispelled the myths and swear by dipping. They say they've never experience seepage.
If I weren't so paranoind about rust I would just stick with Aluminum Oxide as it scores high on paint and light rust. I've hear soda is good as well.
My decision was based on overkill and paranoia about rust. That's why I used the complete POR system on the frame (and will use in in lieu of undercoating). The only thing that will get into the cab grille, the dash, and all of the cab and bed doublers is acid. I have a bit of rust in those areas. I will follow that process with POR in as many hard to get places as I can in lieu of cavity wax. This truck will one day end up in Washington State.
Thanks for the feedback...CR
I've kicked around alot the best method to use and I know there are many opinions on how to get the paint off. I don't know if I will choose the right one as I know how big this debate is.
Originally I was scared off by dipping but most of the myths about that process are from the products used 10-15 years ago. Its now a three step process acid, neutral, inhibit. The two guys who talked me into acid run full time restoration shops in the Northwest (one of the guys has had two cars come in first place at Pebble Beach). They dispelled the myths and swear by dipping. They say they've never experience seepage.
If I weren't so paranoind about rust I would just stick with Aluminum Oxide as it scores high on paint and light rust. I've hear soda is good as well.
My decision was based on overkill and paranoia about rust. That's why I used the complete POR system on the frame (and will use in in lieu of undercoating). The only thing that will get into the cab grille, the dash, and all of the cab and bed doublers is acid. I have a bit of rust in those areas. I will follow that process with POR in as many hard to get places as I can in lieu of cavity wax. This truck will one day end up in Washington State.
Thanks for the feedback...CR
Proud to Be a Carbon Bigfoot
dipping
dipping is great. ive had great results. it just needs to be done the right way and in a timely fashion
'64 ford bbw custom cab short styleside bed
'32 ford 5 window body
'28 ford roadster pickup
'04 ford f150 crew cab short bed
'32 ford 5 window body
'28 ford roadster pickup
'04 ford f150 crew cab short bed
Awesome looking project, I can tell it's gonna look fantastic when you're done!
I can't believe all the sandblasting you did in that garage...must have been a total fog in there at times.
I can't believe all the sandblasting you did in that garage...must have been a total fog in there at times.
My "Slickitis" affliction began here...

66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!

66 F100 CC/65 F100 CC/66 F250 CC
If it starts to rain, they'll tax the splash.
If you want to fish, they'll tax the bass.
If you plant a yard, they'll tax the grass.
If you don't play nice, they'll fine your *$#!

