dakota front clip
- 65f100_Thug
- Posts: 612
- Joined: October 13, 2008, 9:09 pm
- Location: Arkansas

dakota front clip
has anyone tried to get the whole sub frame from a dakota and chop and weld in the whole front clip at the fire wall? I realize that presents other mods like motor mounts and the radiator core support etc. the kits are cool no doubt and maybe the easiest way to go ,but my body man buddy said he could do it with the dakota frame. just looking for some feedback to toss around with him. I think there would be more hours involved in his method.
You might find IC's Xmember cheaper after you pay all the labor. It probably would be if I were doing it for you.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
- 65f100_Thug
- Posts: 612
- Joined: October 13, 2008, 9:09 pm
- Location: Arkansas

well thats kinda what I thought too. This guy is related to my wife and is an awesome body and frame guy who has had his own shop for years. The thing is .......Is he going to let me find a clip and do this with me as a buddy buddy project on the weekends so i save a ton of money. Saving money was the reason he wants to do it that way. wander what the total cost of the weld in kit and ( of coarse price will vary from salvage yard to another) the other way. How much is the kit?
There is some info in this thread.
http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9991
Do a search here for "Industrial Chassis" and "Dakota" and you will find much more info than I could post for you.
http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=9991
Do a search here for "Industrial Chassis" and "Dakota" and you will find much more info than I could post for you.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
-
statesblue
- Posts: 61
- Joined: May 19, 2007, 1:17 pm
- Location: Chino Valley Az
I just finished putting an IC crossmember in my 65. Dollar for dollar I think you would be much happier and much further ahead by doing the IC crossmember. Its stronger ( dont have to sever the frame at a key point ) , simple ( no other mods needed ) , and very clean looking.
I have done a Nova subframe in a 41 coupe I built years ago and it was far more work than what I just did. Glad I went with the crossmember.
I have done a Nova subframe in a 41 coupe I built years ago and it was far more work than what I just did. Glad I went with the crossmember.
- 65f100_Thug
- Posts: 612
- Joined: October 13, 2008, 9:09 pm
- Location: Arkansas

I'm sorry I'm not able to keep up sometimes. There were some pictures of two guys installing a front end kit for a Dakota where they were boxing the backside of the frame and slicing a chunk out of the outside of the frame and welding in (what I call spring hats) . I was under the impression that someone makes a weld in kit like that one, where you then buy a Dakota front suspension from a junk yard and bolt it on. I remember that someone made a comment about a bald spot on one of the guys heads. I'm not home much so before i get too many chances to look at stuff the thread is buried so deep I cant find it.
I called my friend who can do the work and he will do a weekend or three whatever it takes for free I pay for the supplies and bring steaks and the grill. so labor is not a factor.
I called IC and got the scoop but I would like to see pics of your installs and comments all the same.
I called my friend who can do the work and he will do a weekend or three whatever it takes for free I pay for the supplies and bring steaks and the grill. so labor is not a factor.
I called IC and got the scoop but I would like to see pics of your installs and comments all the same.
Last edited by 65f100_Thug on April 8, 2009, 5:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It will be easier to attain a clean looking job with the crossmember added to your stock frame. One other point, if you cut off your frame and add another front section you will have to make further modifications for your core support, bumper, etc. For the $675 or so for the IC piece the headache doesn't sound worth it to me. I have the skills for a front clip swap, but for my $. I would save myself the added gray hairs over it and call Steve at IC.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942
1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD
~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............
Cam L Milan,
You'll be missed my friend.
-
castruck_1964
- Posts: 643
- Joined: August 3, 2006, 3:45 pm
- Location: Ramara Ontario

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statesblue
- Posts: 61
- Joined: May 19, 2007, 1:17 pm
- Location: Chino Valley Az
- 65f100_Thug
- Posts: 612
- Joined: October 13, 2008, 9:09 pm
- Location: Arkansas

Steve still has the sale going. Since I have a experienced well equipped friend to help me basically for free,I think i'm going to go for the clip idea. Not to in any way disrespect Steve and what is obviously the easiest route to a Dakota swap. If i can get a front end for 3 or 4 hundred bucks and spend a couple hundred more in supplies and lots of labor next to a BBQ and cold drinks with people I like spending time with I'm opting for the cheaper way.
As for the chopping the frame off at the fire wall being weaker issue.....
we will go the extra mile to insure the durability and with a clean look.
Ill have to post pics of the process. I talked to buzz about the weaking issue and he said done well it wont be a issue at all ,and reminded me of what we have both seen over and over here in logging country.
when short logs was the thing here in the 70s and 80s guys used to cut and extend log truck frames and even weld on extensions to the back for tag axles and then go out and over load the crap out of them and drive them out of some ungodly terrain everyday and they most of them were poor welders to boot and had allot of success with that.
The big thing im counting on here is this body guy has a frame machine and has untwisted and redone some pretty bad wrecks over the years and
does great work.I believe if i supply him with straight material theres pretty much nothing he cant do and it come out looking first class.
As for the chopping the frame off at the fire wall being weaker issue.....
we will go the extra mile to insure the durability and with a clean look.
Ill have to post pics of the process. I talked to buzz about the weaking issue and he said done well it wont be a issue at all ,and reminded me of what we have both seen over and over here in logging country.
when short logs was the thing here in the 70s and 80s guys used to cut and extend log truck frames and even weld on extensions to the back for tag axles and then go out and over load the crap out of them and drive them out of some ungodly terrain everyday and they most of them were poor welders to boot and had allot of success with that.
The big thing im counting on here is this body guy has a frame machine and has untwisted and redone some pretty bad wrecks over the years and
does great work.I believe if i supply him with straight material theres pretty much nothing he cant do and it come out looking first class.
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Truckfarmer2
- Posts: 328
- Joined: May 8, 2008, 11:01 am
- Location: Central Illinois

Are the frames the same width? I would think thats where the problem would be.
When you do the splice, just use a stagered cut. Don't just go straight through. Then be sure to box a good portion of it closed.
Fabricating new mounts fo the coure support shouldn't be a big deal. I would make a Jig BEFORE you cut the frame off.
Take your time, and do it right. Prep work is key. Make sure you have it all layed out before you start.
When you do the splice, just use a stagered cut. Don't just go straight through. Then be sure to box a good portion of it closed.
Fabricating new mounts fo the coure support shouldn't be a big deal. I would make a Jig BEFORE you cut the frame off.
Take your time, and do it right. Prep work is key. Make sure you have it all layed out before you start.
- 65f100_Thug
- Posts: 612
- Joined: October 13, 2008, 9:09 pm
- Location: Arkansas

here are some quick measurements I took the frame on the Dakota is aprox 37 7/8 inches wide and the 65 is 33 1/4 that shouldn't be a problem.
I measured inside from wheel to wheel at the edge of the rim where the tire beads up and its 57 1/4 on the slick and 52 5/8 0n the Dakota. Of coarse this measurement doesn't say much. the dish of the wheels and with of them etc.
Does anyone know if the front end of the Dakota is narrower than the? slick hub to hub. Does putting the 1/2 ton hubs on the Dakota spindles make it wider?
I measured inside from wheel to wheel at the edge of the rim where the tire beads up and its 57 1/4 on the slick and 52 5/8 0n the Dakota. Of coarse this measurement doesn't say much. the dish of the wheels and with of them etc.
Does anyone know if the front end of the Dakota is narrower than the? slick hub to hub. Does putting the 1/2 ton hubs on the Dakota spindles make it wider?
- 65f100_Thug
- Posts: 612
- Joined: October 13, 2008, 9:09 pm
- Location: Arkansas

In the end it will be easier and cheaper to go with the IC crossmember kit. I have already looked into this and priced everything up and it's the way to go. No point in starting with an older worn out front frame and having to upgrade everything. Buy the crossmember kit and spindles, add your brakes from auto zone, new control arms with new bushings, etc and save yourself the time, money and headache in the end. Dont start with junk that is used and worn out or else you may be tearing it all down again. I have had vehicles with subframe jobs on them that turn out fine after lots of work but with a truck, I think it is best to leave the stock frame uncut and clean looking. Dont skimp out on one of the most important parts of a vehicle.
Whichever route you go, good luck and keep us posted!
Whichever route you go, good luck and keep us posted!
- 65f100_Thug
- Posts: 612
- Joined: October 13, 2008, 9:09 pm
- Location: Arkansas

well I didn't intend for this to become a Kit VS weld in clip because we all pretty much knew the answer to that. the kit Is head and shoulders above the way I proposing no doubt about it. IF you have the 650.00 but seeing as how I would have to wait for tax time next feb to do this. The guy who is going to paint my truck has finally said lets get started. He also has agreed to do the clip for free labor since well have it apart anyway. This guy has done this kind of thing many times before and if he takes on any job its because he knows he can do a popular mechanics how to issue out of it, its just the way he is. I plan to have to replace all the bushings bearings tie rod ends ball joints etc ...whatever is involved in reinstalling a rebuilt front end in a Dakota. thats going to cause talk of a divorce anyway.LOL
When we get the front end and measure everything ,Ill get some pics and keep everyone posted on the progress in the build section.
Again let me say that Steve is obviously an awesome dude for even designing the kit and buying one would be the best way to go and I may even regret not doing it. buy welding a 1988 front end on to a 1965 truck I really wander which end of the truck would be considered the old junk LOL.
When we get the front end and measure everything ,Ill get some pics and keep everyone posted on the progress in the build section.
Again let me say that Steve is obviously an awesome dude for even designing the kit and buying one would be the best way to go and I may even regret not doing it. buy welding a 1988 front end on to a 1965 truck I really wander which end of the truck would be considered the old junk LOL.
Sounds good. At least you know what you want and it looks like you have researched it some so I am sure it will turn out nice. We all know how not having the money to do it the way we would REALLY like it to be is. I almost bought the dakota front end a few months ago and am so glad I held off because things have changed QUICK since I just got laid off from my job, have no money comming in and trying to use my 66 F100 now as my work truck until I can figure some things out.
- 65f100_Thug
- Posts: 612
- Joined: October 13, 2008, 9:09 pm
- Location: Arkansas

Well maybe everyone can say I TOLD YOU SO LOL my body man friend has been doing some research and dropped by and told me we can do the dakota BUT if i really want it to look good we really should consider the kit LAMO>>>>>> the other option is find another donor. like the aerostar or ....or ..... i cant even say it.....well a camero there i said it but no way im doin the chebby Ill drive the i beams off this truck first .LOL
He is willing to do the Dakota clip if i want too. The issue is going from a narrower frame to a wider one.he says no matter how you do it from under the hood it is going to at the very least look odd. we can smooth it out but it will still be going from a wide boxed frame to a narrow frame right where your eye is going to see it and make you go humm..m.m.m
were still milling it over but passably going to save the money forever and to a kit.
He is willing to do the Dakota clip if i want too. The issue is going from a narrower frame to a wider one.he says no matter how you do it from under the hood it is going to at the very least look odd. we can smooth it out but it will still be going from a wide boxed frame to a narrow frame right where your eye is going to see it and make you go humm..m.m.m
were still milling it over but passably going to save the money forever and to a kit.
I told ya so!!! Haha man I said it haha! No really, at least you looked into it more first and made the decision now before you were too far in the hole. Good choice IMO. The Camaro subframe is nice but again it takes lots of work. I had one on my 48 Chevy coupe that my father seemed to just GIVE away ($4000-$4500 worth) two weeks ago (I will never let this one go). But yeah, it was nice and they ride good but you would be better off with the dakota kit.
