Slick 60's

As far as the dual master cylinder goes (the one listed above). Is it a direct bolt on (except for lines)? I mean, is the brake rod the correct length for a 66? I have been thinking about keeping my drum/drum setup but was wanting a dual master cylinder. I had read some other posts that complained about how much of a pain in the a$$ it was to get the correct rod length.

switching to the dual mc is very simple conversion.
anyone who can read a tape measure can cut the rod to the right length.

the 7/8 figure quoted above is pretty close, and theres some adjustment in the bolt holding the rod to the pedal, its eccentric like a cam lobe.

I am interested in a brake upgrade in my 61 uni. I want to go disc's up front -- ready to do this. Question for you all is where can i find a kit to buy brand new (not interested in junkyard fishing).

I know i want discs -- i dont know whether i need power discs or not and really what the cost difference would be as well as the complexity in labor to do it.

any help would be appreciated -- maybe a link to a place i can order from? Also, at that time would I be able to get drop spindles for these trucks? Lowering it would be cool since I got to purchase the brakes and spindles anyway.

Suggest you take a look at the "Hints and Tricks" section and the "Project Builds" sections of this site. Several posts on options for Power IFS and disc brake setups for our trucks. Dropped straight axles are available, though you do not have to change out the spindles to do the disk upgrade. Think most would agree the basic Mustang II setup is not stout enough for our trucks. BTW: You're not going to find front disk brake parts for straight axle Slicks in the junk yard. For Twin-I-Beam trucks yes.

I am interested in a brake upgrade in my 61 uni. I want to go disc's up front -- ready to do this. Question for you all is where can i find a kit to buy brand new (not interested in junkyard fishing).

A lot of us have used the ECI kit. I don't know what the price is now, but when I bought mine, it was around $450.00 including shipping.
I love the kit and it was pretty much complete.
FYI
I did have to use different soft brake lines but I heard they've solved that problem.
Try this link.
www.ecihotrodbrakes.com
You still have to deal with the new hard lines so check www.Inlinetube.com
Call them and tell them what you're doing. They are very nice people and will be happy to work with you.
Uncle Skip

I'm with Uncle Skip! I put an ECI kit in my M II equiped 36 Chevy in 1989 and it has performed wonderfully over the years. The cost then was 300 and change. Buying all the parts new at NAPA was right at the same cost. It was the simplest truely bolt in after market anything I have ever put on a car.

Go with the ECI kit or any of the other "brake kit" aftermarket kits....SSI.....Heidts.....MPB......all have engineered their own kits and all are supurb. Google brake kits for a bunch.

Thank guys -- i think i am leaning toward doing a new front end via the No Limit kit. Since power steering was on my short list of upgrades anyway, might as well get it all done at once.

Anyone here do a power disk conversion other than buying the kit from CPP? Which booster and m/c is used for 61~64?

loosrp wrote:Anyone here do a power disk conversion other than buying the kit from CPP? Which booster and m/c is used for 61~64?

I didn't use the kit - collected my own parts. The only real difference between mine and a power system would be the booster. One of the reasons I didn't go power was I didn't think the 223 that was in the truck at the time would handle the booster. This link is pretty much step by step how I did mine, part #s are listed too. Phil also added some other part #s for cross reference.

http://fordtruk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2647

Russ: Greg D's install instructions and parts list are excellent.

FWIW: I bought a straight axle CPP kit off E-bay a few months back (non-power) for $339 with free shipping. I figured it was cheaper (and much easier) than using my time and gas to scrounge up the parts (not to mention the local 10% sales tax). Not sure if they are still available on e-bay or not.

I purchased my kit from Speedway Motors. $279.99 turn key with the exception of the brake hoses and banjo bolts. Picked those up at a local auto parts store. They use a ford rotor, impala caliper, and some brackets. They also have $6.99 shipping until the 13th of this month. I have found them o be a good cheap source for after market kits and accessories. I changed over to a 1968 corvette master cylinder because of the large bore and added a wilwood proportioning valve for the rear. You can also buy the brake lines for different lengths that already have the double flairs and the nuts on them. They range from $1.99 for an 8" to 3.99 for a 60". Hope this helps.

Red: That's a "gooder" deal than I got.

Thanks for the replies guy's, I already have all the parts to do the disc conversion, just wanting to find a booster that would fit.. ie 68 Mustang w/power disc or...
Russ

Greg D.
I used your list and with the CPP brackets and it was very helpful, Thanks!

loosrp wrote:Greg D.
I used your list and with the CPP brackets and it was very helpful, Thanks!

You are welcome - That's what it is there for, like I stated and sure you found out.
While CPP's brackets are top notch - the instructions with them are lacking at best. I used to be a full time brake tech and have installed various conversions on other vehicles I have owned. I just figured I would make it easy for anybody to do.