5 Speed Manual

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » November 14, 2010, 2:57 pm

I got my T-5 from a freind that does a lot of mustang work. Used an older case with newer gears and got a rebuild kit.

If you have a shop press the rebuild is a peice of cake.

All in all I have about $200 in mine.

charliemccraney · Post by **charliemccraney** » November 14, 2010, 3:32 pm

To unibody madness,
I think a stock Mustang V8 unit will probably do fine for a .060 over 292 which is otherwise stock. It should put you in the neighborhood of 2000rpm at about 70.

The best thing you can do is to see what ratios are available, do the math, and see if it looks like it will play friendly with your engine, axle and tire combination.

unibody madness · Post by **unibody madness** » November 14, 2010, 4:13 pm

Charlie,
Thats the problem. I have no clue what to concider as far as doing the math,it seems easy to you guys that understand that stuff but its all greek to me the 2000 rpm at 70 sounds great
I read the tag Duece posted,but all I know is I want to be able to hook up my manual speedo and get the best version of the t-5 available for a y block.they all have pros and cons just wondering what you would do with your knowledge today.
I have read about different shaft length and clutch/throw out bearings, adapters ect., and would rather not spin my wheels or waste my money.
I understand the complete swap t-5/5.0 is a snap but on this build the y stays!
Thanks for the help
John

charliemccraney · Post by **charliemccraney** » November 14, 2010, 4:22 pm

There are also many calculators available online.
http://www.f-body.org/gears/ is one.

Your manual speedo will work just fine. You may have to change the drive gear on the end of the cable to get it to read right at the speedo.
I think we have a good handle on the clutch and throwout bearing thing. To simplify things, get a transmission with an aluminum bearing retainer, rather than steel. With that, only a new clutch disc and throwout bearing reducer should be required.
While I've never done it, I can't believe a complete engine/trans swap is a snap. Further, the 5.0 equipped '61-'66 trucks I have heard real mileage figures for have actually been worse than I get with "vintage" technology. A lot of work for a step backwards (and no other gain, in my opinion).

jecsd1 · Post by **jecsd1** » November 14, 2010, 6:31 pm

R Pope wrote:Car transmissions have too high first gears for real truck use. Okay if it's just used for a car, but any hauling or towing will make you wish for a lower breakaway gear.
An option would be the Toploader 4-speed OD from a newer pickup. I drove one in my 351W Mustang for 60K hard miles then pulled it out and hooked it to a 460. Tough trans, but a little weird in the ratios, big 2-3 jump. A 351 can handle it though.

My thoughts exactly. I put a NV4500 in my highboy and I love it! It has a real 1st gear so I can haul still and has an OD 5th gear. It was a direct bold in with the adapter plate from transdapt. Uses all the stock clutch linkage too. Just another idea to consider. Plus they live behind cummins turbo diesels so they can handle your SBF.

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » November 14, 2010, 7:04 pm

If you post your current gera ratios and if anyone has an approximate torque curve, I can do the math for you.

I did a larger excel spreadsheet that calculates it all out.

unibody madness · Post by **unibody madness** » November 14, 2010, 8:11 pm

Thanks guys,
as I said 292 .60 over rebuild with a rebuilt rear 350 gears, do not have a tranny yet other than the stock three speed
Like I said I am not a gear head ,but puttung in a matched engine/tranny combo to ,me although more involved mounting wise, is something I can handle, to me the matching of gears ect. is harded to understand
I am in awe when I read you guys talking tech
John

charliemccraney · Post by **charliemccraney** » November 14, 2010, 8:39 pm

unibody madness wrote: Like I said I am not a gear head ,but puttung in a matched engine/tranny combo to ,me although more involved mounting wise, is something I can handle, to me the matching of gears ect. is harded to understand
John

Don't misunderstand. I'm fully expecting that my first choice for the rear gear won't quite be right. I may have another gear set in the transmission before it's all said and done. I want it to be as tall as possible and as short as necessary. Taking the time to learn and do the math makes it more likely that you'll get the right thing or be in the ballpark at least.
If you use the calculator I linked to, it will calculate your road speed with a given transmission ratio, axle ratio, and tire size. With that, you see if the engine rpm at your ideal cruising speed fits well with the torque curve your engine produces. From the specs of the stock engine I think it's safe to say that it will do well at 2000rpm but the curve could be such that it might like a lower or higher rpm more. In the case of my engine, I think it will like to cruise at a higher speed, around 2500rpm, but it is also vastly different than stock.
Even if you were to swap the engine/trans assembly in, you will still have rear gears to change to get the whole package ideal for the intended use of the vehicle(especially in the case of a lower torque 5.0

). So it is something that is valuable to try to understand.

If it's stock, other than the overbore, then according to my 1961 shop manual you will have about 270ftlbs @2000rpm. I have no idea what the curve may be, though.

62galxe · Post by **62galxe** » November 15, 2010, 7:21 am

I run a T5 behind my 292. It is modified so it likes higher RPM.s than stock. I think the calculators get you close. I ran 3.89 in mine. I swapped to a 3.25. It runs 2000 rpm at 70. Im going back to the 3.89 gears. A lot depends on you. Everybody has there opinion on what they are comfortable with as for cruise rpm. Also your cruise speeds affect choice. Dont remember my trans ratios but its 88 mustang.