rear drum brake question

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ICEMAN6166
Posts: 11470
Joined: July 11, 2006, 11:28 am
Location: Dove Creek, Co. elevation 6842
Poland

Post by ICEMAN6166 »

dsrtjeeper wrote:According to the diagram above; I'm missing part # 2035 from my front brakes. It's that wide double spring that stretches across from shoe to shoe. I have a '66 1/2 ton 4x2. Is this part necessary? It's funny that it stopped fine without that part.
Thanks!
Eric
and it will continue to stop fine, but the springs are there to help the brakes retract away from the drums.

the result of no spring will be:
the shoe will drag against the drum until it gets worn, causing the wheel cylinder piston to travel farther out. then depending on the i.d. of the drum the piston could come out or the pin with the notch that touches the shoe could fall out ,get stuck etc...

brake failure or at least premature wearing of the shoe/drum is imminent and the spring should be replaced before you have a problem.

Image
1966 F250 4x4
1964 Rambler Ambassador 990
Rest in peace departed Slick family members
Cam Milam
Lesley Ferguson
Steve Lopes
John Sutton
dsrtjeeper
Posts: 136
Joined: September 15, 2010, 9:07 pm
United States of America

Post by dsrtjeeper »

ICEMAN6166 wrote:
dsrtjeeper wrote:According to the diagram above; I'm missing part # 2035 from my front brakes. It's that wide double spring that stretches across from shoe to shoe. I have a '66 1/2 ton 4x2. Is this part necessary? It's funny that it stopped fine without that part.
Thanks!
Eric
and it will continue to stop fine, but the springs are there to help the brakes retract away from the drums.

the result of no spring will be:
the shoe will drag against the drum until it gets worn, causing the wheel cylinder piston to travel farther out. then depending on the i.d. of the drum the piston could come out or the pin with the notch that touches the shoe could fall out ,get stuck etc...

brake failure or at least premature wearing of the shoe/drum is imminent and the spring should be replaced before you have a problem.

Image
Thank you so mucxh! You just saved my new brakes.
Eric
1966 F100 LWB
Balanced 390 .060 over, Comp 270s, Performer RPM intake, Quick Fuel 680VS carb, full length headers, gasket matched/fully ported C6AE-R heads, 2-1/2" duals, C6 and 3:54 gears with Tracloc.
BarnieTrk
Posts: 1448
Joined: July 11, 2007, 2:37 pm
Location: Stanton, Michigan

Post by BarnieTrk »

DukeRoche wrote:Where do you guys get these detailed diagrams from? I can never seem to find them.
For $22, you can get this CD. Nearly anything OEM that you ever could think of is on it:
http://www.hipoparts.com/products/1964% ... og-CD.html

Realize that the CD is made from thousands of scanned pages of the hard copy Master Parts Catalog. It takes some practice time to get used to just how the information is indexed, but with hands-on practice it will become very useful. Yes, you also will have to wade through all the van and big truck stuff, but the information is good and the illustrations are very helpful for restoration purposes. :thumright:

If you look closely at the page posted by ICEMAN6166 (back on 12-30-10) you will see that the page was picked up from FORDIFICATION.COM. Such illustrated / exploded assembly pictures can be located in many aftermarket parts catalogs. The CD is a scanned copy of the "Mothership" of parts catalogs. worship.gif

BarnieTrk :thumright:
dsrtjeeper
Posts: 136
Joined: September 15, 2010, 9:07 pm
United States of America

Post by dsrtjeeper »

Checked Mitchells online today and they show no such spring for my '66. Checked a couple other sources and found no spring. ???
1966 F100 LWB
Balanced 390 .060 over, Comp 270s, Performer RPM intake, Quick Fuel 680VS carb, full length headers, gasket matched/fully ported C6AE-R heads, 2-1/2" duals, C6 and 3:54 gears with Tracloc.
BarnieTrk
Posts: 1448
Joined: July 11, 2007, 2:37 pm
Location: Stanton, Michigan

Post by BarnieTrk »

flyingv,
Did you get a chance to swap around your rear brake shoes yet? Like Uncle Skip said, we've all done it. I bet that'll cure your problem.

dsrtjeeper,
Notice at the bottom of the illustration the ICEMAN6166 provided, it says, 64/72-Typical. That means your brakes might look exactly like that or if not, close to that. I'm thinking the double-headed spring between the shoes is part of the self-adjuster package. The later trucks had self-adjusting brakes, but NOT the eariler trucks. Neither one of my '65s have self-adjusters in the front (nor the rear). Do you have the little cable, the sheave-like part directing the cable hook to the flipper that clicks on the star section of the bottom spreader (all parts of the self-adjusting system)? If you don't have the cable, sheave or flipper, you likely don't need the double-headed spring either. So, since your brakes are working fine without it, I wouldn't sweat it. Like me, you'll just need to jack up each corner every year and stick an adjusting spoon into the bottom opening on your backing plate and manually adjust your brake shoes while spinning the tire until you hear them touch - no biggie. :cheers:

BarnieTrk 8) :steering:
dsrtjeeper
Posts: 136
Joined: September 15, 2010, 9:07 pm
United States of America

Post by dsrtjeeper »

BarnieTrk wrote:flyingv,
Did you get a chance to swap around your rear brake shoes yet? Like Uncle Skip said, we've all done it. I bet that'll cure your problem.

dsrtjeeper,
Notice at the bottom of the illustration the ICEMAN6166 provided, it says, 64/72-Typical. That means your brakes might look exactly like that or if not, close to that. I'm thinking the double-headed spring between the shoes is part of the self-adjuster package. The later trucks had self-adjusting brakes, but NOT the eariler trucks. Neither one of my '65s have self-adjusters in the front (nor the rear). Do you have the little cable, the sheave-like part directing the cable hook to the flipper that clicks on the star section of the bottom spreader (all parts of the self-adjusting system)? If you don't have the cable, sheave or flipper, you likely don't need the double-headed spring either. So, since your brakes are working fine without it, I wouldn't sweat it. Like me, you'll just need to jack up each corner every year and stick an adjusting spoon into the bottom opening on your backing plate and manually adjust your brake shoes while spinning the tire until you hear them touch - no biggie. :cheers:

BarnieTrk 8) :steering:
Yes; I do have the self adjusting package but without that long spring. It's possible that someone added this kit in the past not knowing that it wasn't standard on this truck.
1966 F100 LWB
Balanced 390 .060 over, Comp 270s, Performer RPM intake, Quick Fuel 680VS carb, full length headers, gasket matched/fully ported C6AE-R heads, 2-1/2" duals, C6 and 3:54 gears with Tracloc.
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charliemccraney
Posts: 1743
Joined: July 9, 2008, 10:02 pm
Location: Lawrenceville, GA

Post by charliemccraney »

I have to take back everything I said about the shoes I've tried being incorrect. It turns out I have a rear end from a '68 which uses different shoes. The other shoes were probably fine and I simply had the wrong application.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
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