Slick 60's

Hi Denny!

Thanks for posting the rescue photos. Lots of info for the board here to work with.

I USED to be from MinneSNOWta, but moved to TN about 20 years ago. If the taxes don't send you packing, the snow just might. That and summer lasting three weeks or so...

Sure wish my family had held onto some of the old iron I used to fool around with. You have a real good project worth putting time and money into. Slicks are a LOT sturdier than what you can buy today. My 95 F-250 looks like it could have been assembled by third graders.

For your truck, I would keep the bed original and patch the steel floor. The rear fender wells look pretty good in your pictures. If you really want a wood bed, I believe the stepsides had wooden floors(?)

With a straight axle front, you will want to either hunt up a disk upgrade kit or plan on REALLY keeping up with the original single master pot and drum brakes. Others here can advise you better on this part.

Nothing wrong with that engine, just depends what you plan to have this truck do when you are finished. I'd say you have the 'reliability' thing NAILED with what you have. Very easy to work on and simple to troubleshoot.

Welcome aboard and thanks again for the photos. My wife no longer lets me hitch up my car hauler - too much stuff follows me home?


Doug in east TN (formerly Heron Lake/Marshall/Hutchinson/Richfield/Lake City)

Welcome from Delaware. This forum will answer any question you may have, by the way I like that green.

To a fellow new guy, welcome from Oregon!!!

Thanks guys I started of cleaning out the truck this morning. I pulled the plugs out and poured a mixture of oil and some top engine cleaner in the cylinders just to clean up and oil the cylinders. With the plugs out i can turn it over by hand, really glad about that. I had to put a starter solenoid in so far and i have spark. I figured out that after 22 years that gas turns to dust in your carb so i have the carb in some cleaner to rebuild when my kit comes in. So this week she should be running as long as my fuel pump pumps gas, and if i can get the old gas out of the tank and cleaned. Does anyone know of anything to put in the tank to clean it out? The tank is completely full so it's not to rusty or anything just kind of slimy.

The drivers floor is pretty bad and the cab mounts are gone. I have some pictures on how the restoration guy 30 years ago "fixed" the mounts. There is a small spot in the front of the box floor. as well as the right cab corner. All fixable and should be fun.



Cab mounts bolt in the floor..... is that supposed to be like that?






Do these mean anything?


What is the small relay for? Theres two yellow wires and looks like teal

Welcome from Northern Illinois. Not sure where you're at in Mn, but maybe we can get another member to meet us at Back to the Fifties next year? That and/or maybe Slick Stock. Both great events.

Jerry D

Yes we will have to do that im 8 miles north of the state fair grounds. I do car craft every year and now hopefully back to the fiftys

maybe we can get another member to meet us at Back to the Fifties next year?

I could be interested in that. I'm in the NW metro.
.

is carolina classics the only ones who make the cab mounts for my 64. if i read right it's 165 for the pair. are they cheaper anywere else?

Dennis Carpenter or http://flashbackf100s.com/ Are the only 2 sources for sheetmetaal and rubber products for our trucks ( that is if you want it to fit and work like original ) . Tom from Flashback is a member here by the way .


Rick

Thank you!

ok so I am trying to get her running. I rebuilt the carb and put in new points, wires, plugs, cap, rotor, fuel pump and a started. compression is a little low on two cylinders but should still be good enough to start to re seat the valves that are leaking a little. I can allmost get it running!!!

My problem is that I didn't pay attention to where my mixture screw and idle screw were before I took it apart because they were rusted in pretty bad.

My question is how do i figure out where to set these for initial start up? my timing seems right.

I all most forgot. it's a Holley 1904

Welcome to the club and nice truck!The cab mount bolts through the floor are correct.I would recommend cab mounts and any other repair panels from Tom(Flashback F100's).I got a set from him and were real nice.Be prepaired to modify them a little to get the right fit.

Denny the internet is your freind Heres the info on that Holley .


http://forums.holley.com/entry.php?429- ... lley-Carbs



Rick

The relay is the horn relay. Set the mixture screws at 1.5 turns out to begin with and adjust from there when running for smooth idle. The numbers on the block is the part number for the block. I believe it is a 1963 date code.

well I'm changing my thinking haha. I'm going to pull the motor and start a full rebuild. ive come to the conclusion that with how much and how far i want to drive this little beast i want to start fresh. I'm going to go through the tranny, rear end etc etc. It will also be alot easier to do the body work with the cab off, box off fenders of etc etc. This will take some time i am very sure should be alot of fun I love doing this stuff! I will need your guys's help with this haha!

were do you guys attach the chains on these motors?
More pictures!


going to need an exhasut manifold..... or headers!!!


I am also hoping this means what i think it means but my measuring equipment is at work.

It means it is bored 40 thou over.

dennyboy wrote: going to need an exhasut manifold..... or headers!!!
[/url]

I'd suggest staying with an exhaust manifold. You should be able to locate a non-cracked OEM manifold without too much effort. I'd check the replacement for straightness across the manifold-to-cylinder head flanges and severe pitting. You may want to get it re-faced, no biggie, then don't look back...use the saved $$ you would have spent on the headers for other stuff.

BarnieTrk

skidoorulz wrote:It means it is bored 40 thou over.

I'm hoping so

BarnieTrk wrote:

dennyboy wrote: going to need an exhasut manifold..... or headers!!!
[/url]

I'd suggest staying with an exhaust manifold. You should be able to locate a non-cracked OEM manifold without too much effort. I'd check the replacement for straightness across the manifold-to-cylinder head flanges and severe pitting. You may want to get it re-faced, no biggie, then don't look back...use the saved $$ you would have spent on the headers for other stuff.

BarnieTrk

thank you are the headers just not really worth it? i'm just wondering.

I had a header on a 300 and had problems with the carb freezing up in the winter.I had never seen or heard of this happening before or after.I had to come up with a way to get heat to the carb to overcome it.I would stay with a manifold IMHO

Patriot headers are cheaper than clifford headers. The clifford intake in the newer models have a provision to run the heater hoses through a plenum at the bottom. I believe ezer may have one for sale, I bought mine through ebay seatches over a period of time,and one from a fellow member. Search clifford on here to find out more. If you cant find one I might be talked into selling one of mine