Slick 60's

Bring her to slick stock, all of us want to see her in person!
Beautiful build!!

You've for sure done a nice job to date!

Had a productive weekend…….



I'm not liking the stance right now….The springs just aren't sitting right, They actually dented the shock..



Sitting low……


I found a great local powder coater….very reasonable prices. The manifold didn't look this good when I bought it.

Has anyone done a 460 with a Mustang II front suspension? The dipstick hole in the rear sump oil pan is right where the header flange is. I can't put the dipstick tube in??!! I'm stumped.

Glad you posted that! I don't know the solution. What brand are your headers? I was just preparing to order my Kaase pump, and track down a rear sump pan; I guess I had better ask a few questions!
Paul

Toyz wrote:Glad you posted that! I don't know the solution. What brand are your headers? I was just preparing to order my Kaase pump, and track down a rear sump pan; I guess I had better ask a few questions!
Paul

They are Sanderson FF461. There were no problems with the front sump pan, they leave plenty of room near the frame rails.

A little dress rehearsal...

I finally got the steering linkage mocked up. I made a floor plate mount for the lower column, and made a frame mount for the rod end support on the steering shaft. I am using two Flaming River universal joints and an Ididit double D shaft.








Thanks to Gritsngumbo, Madmaxetc, 64low-n-slow, Uncleskip, and Toyz for the ideas and insight.

I am using a canton pan which has a different dipstick location. Will a flex dipstick work with your headers?

cooter wrote:I am using a canton pan which has a different dipstick location. Will a flex dipstick work with your headers?

The dipstick hole is almost directly in the center if the collector. Right now my only options are to go without, or pull the oil pan, section out the dipstick hole and move it over a couple inches. And I really don't feel like taking everything apart again!!!!!

I don't blame you for not wanting to take apart. Those headers really seem to hug tight to the block. I too have a canton pan and was able to bend the dipstick tube the way I wanted but the Hooker super comps had more room. I was able to fasten them to the front bolt hole on #7. Doesn't look like you can do that. Trucks looking great by the way!

Moving along. I got the steering linkage all buttoned up.

I got the rear sway bar in too….

I got the front sheet metal back on this weekend. All wired and plumbed. Starts on the first crank. All thats left is to get the hood back on, finish boxing the rear frame where I put in the arches, re-route the exhaust and lay down the bed wood.

Man you have an awesome project going there! I've really enjoyed looking through all your pictures, man you've brought it a long way! I'm interested in using a big block with the m2 ifs as well but I've been worried about the weight of the big block with it. I know you don't have any miles logged with the setup yet but I'm super curious how it will all work together long term. I've used small blocks with every ford project I've done and never used a big 385 series engine and I really want to change that! again great looking truck!! My project link is below, check me out if ya like and please deal free to share any advice on the project!

That thing is awsome!What rear sway bar did you use?

Are you staying with the matte black? sweet build brother.

62bigwindow wrote:That thing is awsome!What rear sway bar did you use?

The sway bar is an addco #340.

myoldman460 wrote:Are you staying with the matte black? sweet build brother.

Yes the black is the final color. It is black base coat with flattener added to the clear coat.

almost there!!

Almost there for sure and couldn't be looking better! I don't know bout anyone else here but I myself would like to see a smokey burnout pic when you get her out on the pavement good!!