Slick 60's

Floor pan just about done, need to dress up the underside then start working on then can mount

The floor repair looks great, I did mine last year, lots of fun. I made my floor with a cheap bead roller and 18 gauge sheet metal, as the cost of the bead roller was about the same as the replacement floor patches.

My sons flair side needed front mounts and little else. I have one body mount on the long bed and none on thr Turk build.
My other two swb u.is will however test my patience.
Yours is comming along great.

Thanks uni madness, just when you think you got it all, a little more rust appears! I have read mustang tank installs galore and the tech article about them. Anyone put a remote fill fuel cell and plumb it to the stock filler hole?

No, but someone did cut out that section and move it back just by swaping the pieces. Cut,trace onto new location, cut, swap,weld,done.

Is that a factory radio delete truck? Or some metal and welding? LOL I'm not sure what kind of radio I'm going to put in yet but it definitely won't be as big as the hole the previous owner cut, I'd like to put a factory face on at least

Special nuts , cage nuts, screws and other clips fasteners check around your area looking for someone that can get parts from a co. Au-Ve-co. Auto- Vehicle Co. Cold Springs Ky. I don't know if they have a web site or not but they have all kinds of automotive fasteners.

Looking good...keep the pics and updates coming. I'm enjoying this build thread.

Fiveoh108 wrote:Is that a factory radio delete truck? Or some metal and welding? LOL I'm not sure what kind of radio I'm going to put in yet but it definitely won't be as big as the hole the previous owner cut, I'd like to put a factory face on at least

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You do some real nice metal work...

Cutting out the brace from the old cab mount


Had to cut the new cab mount to fit against the new floor pan. I scooted the floor pan back as far as I could but still had to cut part of the cab mount out



That's about all I got done today, set it in place, bolted it down, but still need to weld it in. The doors and fender line up again!

Got the cab mounts welded to the floor pan and all bolted in today, welding upside down is not fun! Working on lowering the back right now with longer shackles and removing a couple leaves, I think I can get at most 2 1/2" of drop, still better than a major modification.

How is the build coming along? Did you get the rear lowered?

SteveCanup wrote:How is the build coming along? Did you get the rear lowered?

No, dang work has gotten in the way again! Maybe this weekend I'll get some stuff done. I did get all three hood chrome pieces from ebay for a really good deal and windshield stainless trim from a custom cab that I think will look good. I need modern driveline to get their custom s10 tailhousings cast so I can get the t-5 installed

I've always said, "they should outlaw work..." lol....

What leaves should I remove to get the rear down 3-4"? There are so many to pick from?!

Man! I've never seen that many springs on any vehicle. I would remove the top 5 and then probably every other one from the lower part. If you are not going to haul much maybe go down to about 4-5 springs in the rear. Just my

Got it down to 5 springs and made a custom center bolt with my angle grinder. Where can I find 5/8 rod by 2 1/4 square U bolts. They are elusive!

I thought that someone had posted that AdvanceAuto had the correct U-bolts for the rear. Check with all of your local auto parts stores. I think you will like the end result of what you did. Post pics of the "stance" when you get the springs back in.

About the bolts... here is another lead... viewtopic.php?f=32&t=19250&hilit=LSR&start=60

AB Spring service in MI.

Randall

Watch mixing and matching doors. In your original pics, it has a uni door on the left and a regular pickup door on the right. Different body lines.

SPark