why buy rust???

6166 Junkyard Dog · Post by **6166 Junkyard Dog** » November 30, 2006, 7:22 am

whenever we sell items everbody tells us how nice since our sheetmetal is, we do take time to pressure wash < 4000 psi > our sheetmetal doors,cabs, beds, etc.. & likely the only one that does,, On cabs we take all the plugs out stand it on its side or back clean out front cab mounts, crossmembers, cabcorners hinge pillars etc.. & some of the items you find is amazing pay special attention to center crossmembers once cleaned out drill a hole the size of a quarter so it stays clean,, cab corners have drain holes so keep them clean also,, do the same thing on beds & especially the inside of doors too.. On the rain gutter drill small holes across so water does not stay in the gutter once this is all done every once in a awile take a air hose to blow out any unecessary dust in those little hiding places

jeepbut · Post by **jeepbut** » November 30, 2006, 9:24 pm

Tom, please post a picture or drawing of the rain gutter drilling. I either don't understand or I think it is a horrible idea-not sure which without more info. Thanks, Lyman.

F-Zilla · Post by **F-Zilla** » November 30, 2006, 11:36 pm

Here is a picture of a corner of a paper map stuck in the cab corner drain.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » December 1, 2006, 1:52 am

be surprised what you find in the kickpanels and cab corners.i get crazy about cleaning out the sand and dirt from all those places.another one is the spring shackles on the rear axle mounted to the frame. there are drain openings in those too and they get filled up with stuff and can rot the frame in those areas.

66fordtrucknut · Post by **66fordtrucknut** » December 1, 2006, 6:03 am

[albumimg]1116[/albumimg]

[albumimg]1115[/albumimg][albumimg]1113[/album This what I started with but it gets better.
Charlie

joeymac64 · Post by **joeymac64** » December 1, 2006, 10:25 am

now this is what i'm talking about (no offence 66 ford trucknut) but in my opinion and it may only be mine, but this is just to far gone, not just rust from mice droppingsor maps stuffed into cab corners although i admire 66 ford trucknut for his ability and courage to tackle this project the time spent in repairing the structural rust for myself i'd have preferred to save another 1000.00 and bought somthing a with a little less rust finding the right vehicle is like finding the right woman it takes a lot of time and a lot of searching but they are out there i purchased my 34 chev it came out of utah was concerned i paid to much only rust on the car was in the rear wheelwells few holes the size of a quarter on both sides i have been since offered double what i paid for the vehicle.old cars are an investment buy the best you can it is money in the bank even in pieces!!

Clearcreekcustom66 · December 1, 2006, 11:05 am

I noticed that six two asked about por-15. I used it on an 86-cj7 jeep that I restored. It seems to be working well. There is an article in last months Hot Rodder about it. The finish came out decent. The only thing I do not like about it is the fact that you must cover it with a clear or color to protect it from the sun. jason

The Big M · Post by **The Big M** » December 1, 2006, 11:28 am

Nice work, Charlie. Very inspiring!

Here's mine:

I never really considered my truck as an investment. Or any truck for that matter. Definitely not money in the bank! I just don't see myself getting out any more than I put in. I'm not saying it won't happen (judging from the influence of eBay and Barrett-Jackson on inflated prices), I'm just saying I'm not counting on it. I don't think trucks have the same mass appeal as '32 Fords, Model A's, or numbers-matching Mopar muscle.

But who knows. Perhaps Slicks will become the next media darling...

willy3486 · Post by **willy3486** » December 1, 2006, 11:32 am

Mine here in TN had rust and lots of it. There are many reasons I didn't find a rust free one . One the sentimental value, My dad helped me to get it and now hes gone its something to remember him by, I also had a few uncles through the years to help, one rebuilt the engine others gave me parts. One uncle is gone and others are older now. I have owned it longer than the original owner. I wanted to see if I could rebuild it. I handmade all the metal parts I replaced in it mainly using a vise,hammer beating board and sweat. Plus a big time of the rebuild I was laid off or just working crappy jobs until I could find a good one. So It had to be cheap to fix up. I cut out rusty metal and trimmed untill it was only good metal. Also not many people have the determination I did to fix it. I see a lot of lazy people here where I live buy old cars in far better shape than my truck was just give up after they get something as simple as a hangnail from their automotive project. Plus even though I live in the south,TN, most trucks you find are rust buckets or if they are good shape far too costly. So many here are probably like me , You make do with what you have and are happy with it. So I will be happy with my former rustbucket ,its memories, and now its rebuild. So just be happy with what you have even if its rusty.

castruck_1964 · Post by **castruck_1964** » December 1, 2006, 8:46 pm

in some respects i see joeymacs point,rust is alot of work.

better cleaner trucks are prime candidates for restoration rustier trucks are easier to rod than clean ones and keep ones concience clear.IMHO
My truck while being quite a radical custom in some people's opinions is not built from a rust free/ solid truck. floors were rotten, bottom hinge area rotten, roof rot.

Anyway not looking for a medal or anything just voicing my opinion. I don't like cutting up good vehicles to build rods that could be restored. not trying to offend anyone just my

used por 15 in hard to reach seam areas with some rust remianing. put it on bare rusty metal and primed directly over it and we can't tell where it is now. applied with cheap brush dried with no telltale brush marks

six-two · Post by **six-two** » December 1, 2006, 9:37 pm

skier112886 and castruck_1964 thanks for the info on por15. I'll probably use it on this stage of my "restoration." Right now I've pulled out the carpet and cleaned everything, WD-40'd the rust holes. I hope this at least delays the progress of the rust.

________________________________six-two

ripsnorter · Post by **ripsnorter** » December 1, 2006, 10:33 pm

My experience with rust has been that theres really only one real way of getting rid of it:

Cut it out.

Either by patch panel, or some skillful fiberglas patching. (blasphemous to some, but if you know what youre doing and do it from the back it looks fine and can fix some otherwise monumental jobs. Body mounts are a good example)

The only other way that semi-works is to get a good sandblaster and have at it. if you can do a proper job of it, and prime it IMMEDIATELY afterwards, (sandblasting dries the metal to the extreme, and makes it almost suck up any moisture available) you can usually get rid of most rust. not always though.

Cutting it out is the only way i've ever seen it work with a 100% success rate.

Sorry if I'm explaining what everyone already knows heh.

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » December 2, 2006, 2:17 am

got to agree with the last.
cut it out is the best way to get rid of it.
even if you are not doing a metal repair.i made some nice little patches with POR-15 and fiberglass mat.used the POR instead of resin and its quite tough.still i cut out the bad metal first.

MadMaxetc · Post by **MadMaxetc** » December 2, 2006, 11:29 am

POR-15 should not be applied over ACTIVE rust. You need to nutralize the rust (stop the oxidation) (something like METAL=Ready) and then you can place POR-15 (or something like it) over the top.

This would be ok for surface rust such as floor boards, but if you can see through it (swiss cheese or fred flintstone style) then you need to do surgery.

ripsnorter wrote:Cutting it out is the only way i've ever seen it work with a 100% success rate.

This is sooooo true!

castruck_1964 wrote:better cleaner trucks are prime candidates for restoration rustier trucks are easier to rod than clean ones and keep ones concience clear.IMHO

I also agee with this. I have a nice dash with a factory radio, I will NOT be cutting a hole in it.

66fordtrucknut · Post by **66fordtrucknut** » December 2, 2006, 9:06 pm

[albumimg]1113[/albumimg]
[albumimg]224[/albumimg]

I couldn't afford 1000 bucks for a new cab, fab work is what I do anyway. The cab was radio delete, with a pristine dash, and a very good drip rail which were more important to me. the lower vent , door hinges, floorpans, cab mounts aren't really seen anyways, It only needs paint now, which I need $ for, also for the lower door hinge area, I highly recommend carolina classics replacement parts, they are a perfect fit! (for the ones who deal with rust).
Charlie

6166 Junkyard Dog · Post by **6166 Junkyard Dog** » December 3, 2006, 7:34 am

LOOOOOOKS Real good Charlie with the red paint, just like my Fire Truck Cab I just took a deposit for,,, You still running a 223

in one of your trucks

66fordtrucknut · Post by **66fordtrucknut** » December 3, 2006, 7:52 am

Hey Tom, you betcha, it runs too good to get rid of it. That red is fresh red epoxy primer. The 65' will have the V8.
Charlie

6166 Junkyard Dog · Post by **6166 Junkyard Dog** » December 3, 2006, 8:01 am

I found one of those clear fuel bowls on a used intake assembly if still interested?

ICEMAN6166 · Post by **ICEMAN6166** » December 3, 2006, 11:38 am

well now i am going to have to fix my uni doors as i cant afford this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1961-196 ... dZViewItem

64 f100 · Post by **64 f100** » December 3, 2006, 12:35 pm

Most of our members use their trucks as do I. Most of my trucks have to set outside. A rust free truck doesn't exist. You may not have rust thru now, but you have rust inside on bare metal. If, you leave your truck out in the weather, is will eventually rust thru somewhere, even if you live in a dry climate, just takes longer. Protecting the metal from inside rust is harder to do, especially when already started. With this in mind, most of us will have to deal with rust thru sooner or later. Nothing is new forever, unless locked away from all contact with moisture and corrosive chemicals. This brings me to the conclusion, that rust repair isn't all that bad. Once repaired right, and then protected well, you don't have to worry about rust in your lifetime, as a general rule. However, this brings me to a sore subject with me. Who makes good repair panels? Just because these look good and fit well, doesn't mean the metal is optimal for survival. Some tin I've used over the years will rust out nearly immediately. I know htere or rust resistant metals out there, but who is using the good stuff, and who isn't? Aluminized steel is supposedly the best to use,from and article I read, but who knows, and I'm fairly certain it's more expensive, so which supplier is using the best metal? No matter how far you go, and how much you learn, it seems, there is always another question.

Rich