Slick 60's

I agree with Foodstick, the way you are going April, you should have it done way before next April.

Yeah I hope so! My parents are coming out to visit me in the spring. Sure would be nice to have two vehicles in the house... One for them to drive and for me to drive this one!

Been using this product in the cab for the high build and it sands really nice. I sanded the dash to 80 grit yesterday after work. It didn't take long. This morning I am going to spray some more on, which will finish off this quart system.

After work I drove up to the paint store- it takes an hour each way to pick it up, but I spent about $230 on this stuff: Gallon of Rage Ultra body filler, Gallon of High Teck high build, activator and reducer. Plus got a tube of seam sealer.



I have a lot of work to do today. I have to be at work by 5pm- so I better get a move on it. Spray the inside of the cab with high build. Spray the roof with high build. Maybe even spray the firewall with high build. Then I am planning on doing a lot of sanding this week in the middle of work/sleep.

What seam sealer are you using?

i used tubes of Fusor 800 and also some eastwood brushable type. I prefer the brushable as I have better control of it.

Worked on the drip rail seam seal the other day and finally smoothed it out.



Worked on sanding down the dash to 220 so far.





in the final hour of my night today- I put a coat of high build down on the whole cab.

Awesome build thread. I regularly check for your updates to see your progress. With your cab pulled all the way down, I was wondering if you could snap a few photos and educate me about the cowl drains. My 65 is leaking somewhere under the front dash, mostly on the drivers side. The complete front end is attached, but Im at the point I may separate the cab from the frame to get better acces to the frame for some repairs so if I need the fenders off to address the cowl drai issue it will make my decision easier. Thanks,.

more sanding today.




Look at all these Highs/Lows.....

9fingers,

There aren't any drains that go directing into the cab. If you look above at the inside of the dash photo, you can see a few cut outs on the left. one is for the fender bolt, and right next to it is where the air vent is(oval one). If you put your hand up inside the air vent oval one, you can reach your arm up into the cowl. I had tons of leaves and pine needles stuck in mine. I had a hole in the dash where the driver windshield wiper pin comes through the cowl. I welded a washer in there a few weeks ago and i rolled some short strand fiberglass filler over it- epoxy and then lizard skin (thats that while stuff on my dash)

Reach your hand down inside there, and i bet it is packed with crap. Reach up and you will probably pull crap out of it too.


At the very bottom of the cowl- where the lower portion of the fender attaches, there is a drain hole.

Thanks! I will pull the plastic vent doors and see what I can find. I'm hoping for the best.

I'll bet you would be surprised at how many of those low spots on the back of your cab came from the factory that way. They figured you couldn't see it anyway. You're doing a great job April.

I too love watching your build. I check it ever few days to see what progress your making. Your doing great April and I can't to see your finished product. I have a build thread from about five or six years ago buried in here someplace. You and I have something else in common. We are both military only I have long since retired.

had a slight set back last night that took a bit of work to fix.

I had a poor adhesion between two coats of epoxy. It peeled right up as i started blocking the roof. I sanded it down and started that part over again.












did some more work on the cab. scratched this down to 80 grit.


cab is mostly sanded to 80. will toss another coat of primer on after i block a few spots of filler. The dash is sitting in 220 right now. Will catch the rest of the cab up and reprime all together.

spending my morning wasting away at alignment of this door. I had to get a new hinge due to mine being over extended.
There needs to be some tweaking here and there to not get any rub on the bottom, or any kick out on the top.



playing with a little rangoon red.




got my bumper to bumper (minus engine) hardware kit from Totally Stainless

Remember to use a little anti seize compound when you use stainless steel nuts on stainless steel bolts or screws. Stainless likes to gall for some reason when used together.

BTW, love that Rangoon red.

Im a little concerned about the door alignment on the driver side. When I took it all apart- it had fit fine. No binding, no worries. Never even knew the door was damaged due to being bent backward.

The door appears to be in good shape and nothing appears to be bent. when trying to adjust the hinge post bolts, I get / \ movement. That is what I tried to adjust first. I set up three paint sticks taped together so that the base of the door would sit on that on the step. That is how I adjusted the up/down. All when I seem to get it aligned right- I try to close the door and it seems to bind the last inch before it would close. Can't tell yet where the bind up is.

But- others have said that it will shift again when the cab is on the frame.

I just worry that I will do all this paint work on the cab and go to instal the door and it will chip all paint off- won't close- become a jeep!

I am taking columbus day week off of work. I guess I can get the frame rolled around to the front of the garage and set the cab on it then put the doors back on.

messed with that door most of the morning...
then spent the afternoon doing this




aint no one gonna see it with the truck bed in place... not sure why I am bothering- i guess its just wanting to be sure its perfect.

I will block sand that down again later. I quit for the night when the sun went down.

Door alignment can be a real pain. use paper around the opening, when it binds see if any of the paper is stuck as well. The bolt that is farthest forward on the hinges provides most of the adjustment as it is closer to the actual hinge pivot. I've always had to make slight adjustments to the outer dimensions of doors in order to get them gapped correctly. Either grinding some edge away and welding or extending an edge with a weld bead. I've always started mounting a door by positioning it slightly higher than I want in the opening and then tightening the bolts on the inside of the door. Even with perfect hinges they tend to drop slightly.

What kind of gun are you using April?

Using a cheap harbor freight gun for primer. Have an Eastwood contour for paint... I can't afford too expensive spray gun.