Slick 60's

slow going at this slick household. I work on it when I can, but thats the point right.
Got the old seat out. man was it busted up. i cut out the seat pattern and the Ford logo from the cover and put the rest up for a later truck,

seat out


floors to clean and replace (other side is worse but not Anthony worse.lol)


gutted the doors


bezel out checking the wiring behind and sanding around the dash. have to get the knob bezels out next


sanded,primed,and repainted one of my F250 caps- future clock I think

replace!!! why would you replace something in that good of shape??? Hey, you work with what you are delt down here and that means rust... & unfortunately, lots of it ... the floors look like a pretty easy job compared to my rust bucket Gregg. the doors look to be real solid and the wiring behind the cluster seems to be untouched??? looks to me like you got a real deal on that baby... treat her good and fix her up the way you want and she will last you forever... as for the clock thing??? you have the right hubcap for that.... just the right number of indentions to place all of your numbers... be sure and post pics of the new seats and how you mounted them in there... keep us updated and work on her when you can ....

seen way worse floors than that.

get some naval jelly and scrub it into the floor real good. it will clean a lot of that off.

i need to cover up my wiring so I can clean the floor. I was going to rewire it but I think I'll just leave it as is and avoid that $700 headache. I have a trailer brake box in the cab with a brake line running out to the MC that needs to come out when I redo the brakes.

Also, can I take the gas tank out with some gas still in it?

doors are solid with no rust at the bottom, so it's just a big degrease job right now, then i have to get the passenger side floor patched. then wait till my bank account grows again.lol

thanks for the support...and parts

yes you can take the tank out with some gas in it. just don't turn it upside down... all the holes should be on the top drivers side... or at least mine was...

5 gal or so is not bad, still under 50lbs. with the tank i think.
1/2 tank starts getting heavy and theres no baffle so the sloshing of the gas starts to become an issue.

ok, thanks,it's sounding pretty hollow now. i could probably clean the floors without the tank in there, but since im there and the seat is out, might as well take that out too. It's a slippery slope

Man Gregg, Did we motivate you Saturday? You are ripping into that thing like a well done steak.
Looks like you do have a solid foundation to start with. Keep us posted on your progress. We love pics.
Wyatt

i found a 65 F250 2wd near me with all the chrome fixings, original radio, hubcaps, nice grill, CC bezel, 352, 3sp column. so tempted to get it and just keep it around. It's got lots of rust and you can see through the front grill out the fender well. the bottom half of the rad support is gone.

have to sweet talk the mrs on this one.

Hard to beat a spare parts truck if you got the room. It's a better end for it than going to the crusher.....

thanks greg, i got one from the alaska slick store

slickmainer wrote:ok, thanks,it's sounding pretty hollow now. i could probably clean the floors without the tank in there, but since im there and the seat is out, might as well take that out too. It's a slippery slope

I have a 67 mustang, whose rebuild/resto was kicked off by me pulling one of the front drums off.

I broke a shoe when I put the drum back on. The fix for that resulted in a disk brake swap, suspension/steering rebuild, engine rebuild, undercoating with POR15, and reworking the rear suspension and brakes.

A few thousand dollars and several months later, I was able to drive it again. You have to be careful with the "I might as well, since its taken apart" trap.

got the doors off tonight, but I did so only AFTER reading that it's a good idea to drill a hole through the hinge before removing any bolts so it's easier to realign..Live and learn i guess

got a nice center jump seat to match my two silverado bucket seats off ebay. Once I get the floor cleaned up, i'll be working on a way of getting them in there and bolted down. I'll have to drill many new holes in the floor since I'll be mounting two buckets and a center seat console to the floor in a non ranger predrilled floor. Probably should reinforce the floor was well so they dont pull through. Think plate across the underside? over the top?
probably another 8 weeks out though at the rate i go.

I am not an expert on this but I have used 3 inch washers on top and bottom before for reinforcement. if you have plate and can go side to side underneath, that would be killer but I don't know if the floor is that flat??

Hey its video time!

well here we are as of this weekend. All I could get done was cleaning the cab floor. Royal Purple. I'll pull the gas tank next and clean behind that. then the grinder/wire cup, then get the patch panels down for the floor, then make a frame for the seats, apply some rust encapsulation.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LP9JjKUSdRU

Hey Gregg,

It looks like you are making great progress. That is a nice looking Slick! Keep up the great work!

...Sinc

Gregg, what are those hooks on the side of the bed? A place to secure the "jewels" when you climb over the side. LOL

Turning them face up would be ALOT more adventurous!

not real sure what those are supposed to be. my guess is tie downs but I dont know if they are factory.
The truck is a custom cab (so says the plate) but there are no chrome trim drill holes on any part of the truck. I dont see any fill holes from the inside of the door, hood,bed or cowl. But it has the trim around the windshield, the gauge cluster, and the script wording.
I plan on taking them off since 3 are broken and jagged.