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Posted: June 14, 2010, 4:25 pm
by ICEMAN6166
slickmainer wrote:got the doors off tonight, but I did so only AFTER reading that it's a good idea to drill a hole through the hinge before removing any bolts so it's easier to realign..Live and learn i guess
put the door back on the hinges with a 1/4" piece of plywood between the door and the sill. line it up with it closed as close as you can. then go inside and put the bolts in snug. then open the door you will be pretty close and can adjust a little more if needed.

Posted: June 14, 2010, 6:45 pm
by slickmainer
thanks for the tip brian

Posted: July 1, 2010, 8:31 pm
by slickmainer
not much to report, just small steps. Got the glove box door, ash trey and mirror repainted, now to apply some clear.
the exterior is marlin blue still since the PO put a decent paint to it. Im doing the inside but doing it from a rattle can. I have to redo the top dash, lower dash, and the floor and the door panel. I haven't decided on the inside cab, but since my seats are getting recovered, i can do pretty much what ever looks good. It's really just a fix till I can get it repainted 3-5 years from now.

Posted: July 3, 2010, 2:16 pm
by slickmainer
ordered some Marlin Blue paint in a spray can. We'll see how close it is to the real thing.
Anti-rattle arrived

Posted: July 5, 2010, 9:15 am
by slickmainer
Here are my glove box, ash tray, mirror and trans cover painted in Dupli-color Wimbledon White, and Dupli-color clear. New 4sp boot ready to go on as well. The lower dash is also getting Dupli-colored. Also going to get the visor done in this color too, but haven't figured out how the cardboard visors come off the posts

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Posted: July 5, 2010, 9:24 am
by MadMaxetc
What is it about old parts in fresh paint?? I can't get enough!

Posted: July 5, 2010, 10:44 am
by 64shortbed
Looks good!

Posted: July 5, 2010, 9:25 pm
by Michelle
The sun visor will come off the spindel by twisting it back and forth while pulling it at the same time.

Posted: July 5, 2010, 9:37 pm
by Greg D
I recovered a pair that were falling apart in vinyl, wasn"y too tough. You could probably find vinyl or cloth in a color so close you couldn't tell the difference.

Posted: July 5, 2010, 10:10 pm
by slickmainer
thanks for the info, I have the cardboard style (staples and all). Im not even sure i'd want them back on, they turn so tight, and I'd probably never use them

Posted: July 11, 2010, 4:23 pm
by slickmainer
little more work done this weekend.
painted the heater
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painted lower dash with duplicolor spray can W.White
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Top of roof with hammerite "hammered" black
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as you can see I also primed some of the door area and the top of the dash. I need to sand that down and get it ready for marlin blue spray can

Posted: July 11, 2010, 5:31 pm
by dotcentral
Looks good Greg. I am working on my cab right now as well.

How are you going to handle the kick panel area? I'm worried about paint holding up over time there.

Posted: July 11, 2010, 6:21 pm
by Thunderboy
Looks nice, Gregg. I'm glad you've managed not to get so deep that you can't drive it soon. It is so easy to tear these trucks apart, then not have the time and/or money to put it back together.
:oops:
I wish I had done it like you are. I have 2 66s, and they are both apart. It seems like I spend lots of time and money, but neither of them are near ready to drive. :cry:

Posted: July 11, 2010, 7:11 pm
by slickmainer
that was my goal. it was pretty solid and could be driven (short distance) when i got it. a seat, heater, antifreeze, and brakes and it's good to go. I could live the holes in the floor board since I'll put something over them anyway, but figured since all these things were out id do the floor, then button up and drive.

Posted: July 14, 2010, 2:50 pm
by slickmainer
dotcentral wrote:Looks good Greg. I am working on my cab right now as well.

How are you going to handle the kick panel area? I'm worried about paint holding up over time there.
Not sure about that area yet. couple of options for me

Hammerite in black like the roof, then spray can blue over it

Hammerite in black and leave it black

cover it with a custom kick panel of sorts.

basically im hoping for a :idea: moment

Posted: July 14, 2010, 3:15 pm
by Michelle
Your rattle can paint job looks pretty good. Your coming along nicely.

Posted: July 22, 2010, 10:21 am
by slickmainer
got marlin blue sprayed on the dash, door frame, and around the rear window. Working to get some clear coat on it, then turning attention to the inside of the doors.
I'll photo after the clear gets put on.

Posted: July 30, 2010, 11:10 pm
by slickmainer
New videos. 3 to be exact.

rust on my drivers side cab floor
http://www.youtube.com/user/imaplatlong ... QD5PkCb_is

my door and some parts
http://www.youtube.com/user/imaplatlong ... 0hX6ZpsOmc

some interior parts i painted and bought
http://www.youtube.com/user/imaplatlong ... 56rHkryd84

Posted: August 4, 2010, 7:39 pm
by slickmainer
well ive decided to take the money i had set aside for floor pans/welder, and do the brakes and wheel cyl first. I figure, at least with brakes I can drive it, even if it has some holes in the floor. I could spend all that money for the floors and still not be able to drive it!

time for brakes, wheel cyls, front parking brake cable, and 2 new tires

Posted: August 5, 2010, 3:44 am
by olliesshop
I just went through your thread again. It sure is coming along nicely!!!

I agree ... getting the brakes working flawlessly is important. I don't think I've been able to drive mine on the street for about 10 years, since the brakes need rebuilding. The pedal goes right to the floor.

Good Luck !!!