5.0 EFI/HO swap questions

[dotcentral]

1. I just noticed the RJM instructions say to ground the ECU. How have any of you accomplished this? One end should be simple enough, I figure I will ground it to a bare spot under the dash. But how did you attach a ground wire to the ECU? Or is it attached to the bolt the holds the cable to the ECU female plug end?

Since reading the threads here about grounding the EEC my plan is to attach a ground wire to one of the computer's screws. I have not seen much on having to ground the EEC but it won't hurt to ground it. me that. [/color]

PFM, you are going ground the ECU using one of the screws on the ECU case?

I have been meaning to call RJM and ask them if it is needed or if the harness ground does this for us.

[dotcentral]

A friend helped me with the alternator wiring, used the donor car's 3G alternator & connector plugs, a few short lengths of wire and a new GM connector and saved $20 that RJM wants.

Question on Alternator. Do I still need to hook into the starter solenoid or does the RJM harness eliminate the need to do that?

[dotcentral]

Planning on hitting the salvage yard tomorrow for a 73-79 auto column shifter linkage,

Look forward to seeing what you come up with on this one because I need to do something similar. I would like to keep the column shift but don't want pull the shift lever out of the trans. I've studied the process a little but not sure what I'm going to do yet.

Going to still require some fab work. I found a straight shift rod in a '70 XLT, V8 auto and the 3 speed manual rod from my 66, which has a couple bends. Both are too short as is by 3-4". The bent rod looks like the best fit, I think I will add about 6" to the middle, and if need be a few more bends to the rod. Easier to thread more of the rod with a die than to keep welding on more pieces - I think.

Still haven't figured it out! A buddy and I got it to were we can shift out of park, and going "down" the shift pattern (PRND21) can hit all the gears, but can't shift "up" the pattern. To shift down we had to loosen the pivot up so much it is no longer firm enough to shift up the pattern.

If one of us ever figures it out, we need to do a good drawing with measurements on what we come up with to help everyone else. Or start making them and selling them.

[randyr]

Still haven't figured it out! A buddy and I got it to were we can shift out of park, and going "down" the shift pattern (PRND21) can hit all the gears, but can't shift "up" the pattern. To shift down we had to loosen the pivot up so much it is no longer firm enough to shift up the pattern.

If one of us ever figures it out, we need to do a good drawing with measurements on what we come up with to help everyone else. Or start making them and selling them.

I still don't have mine installed yet but I've been playing around with it a bit. I made an attachment for the AOD shift lever on the trans that is similar in size & shape to the shift lever on my old cruise-o-matic. Since the AOD shifter uses the same number of "clicks", hopefully it won't take too much adjustment to make it work. You'll probably have yours figured out before I get my installed but I'll snap a couple of pics next time I'm in the garage.

[PFM-64f100]

1. I just noticed the RJM instructions say to ground the ECU. How have any of you accomplished this? One end should be simple enough, I figure I will ground it to a bare spot under the dash. But how did you attach a ground wire to the ECU? Or is it attached to the bolt the holds the cable to the ECU female plug end?

Since reading the threads here about grounding the EEC my plan is to attach a ground wire to one of the computer's screws. I have not seen much on having to ground the EEC but it won't hurt to ground it. me that. [/color]

PFM, you are going ground the ECU using one of the screws on the ECU case?

I have been meaning to call RJM and ask them if it is needed or if the harness ground does this for us.

The plan is to use one of the case screws to hook up a ground wire. It will be one of the 6 screws holding the cover on the EEC.

I havn't grounded my EEC in my 64 (A9L-using RJM harness) so I don't think it is needed but I will try it with the CrewCab just in case. Worst case it helps and if not I won't loose anything.

[dotcentral]

Got a few things done today. Tuesday my BC Broncos cone air filter came, so mounted it today. It was 25.00+shipping, which was about another 50% tacked on, but still about half the price of a K & N. Need to oil it up yet.

Finally finished the heater hose routing. With the TB and intake ducting on the same side had a bit of stuff to have to fit around. Will have to get an upper rad hose and a spacer to neck the thermostat end of the hose down - the radiator is a one size fits all Ford radiator, so the necks are designed for FE sized hoses. Add coolant, find TDC, drop in the distributor, prime the oil, gets some gas and fire it up. Unless I'm overlooking some more small details again.

Still have to mess with the shifter. And the speedometer.

No opinions on Dexron vs Mercon? need to hook up ATF cooler lines @ the radiator still.

Still not clear on the Ford TV cable issue. I have a used lokar TV cable set up for a carb, may just use that.

My Power steering hoses have disappeared. May have to hit pull a part again if they don't show up soon.

Also lost the bolt for the belt tensioner.

What size is the bolt for the heavy ground cable at the engine block?

Can't find my stack of cutoff wheels, so can't finish cutting a gas filler hole in the inner & outer bedsides.

[PFM-64f100]

One thing I've learned from setting the timing on the EFI engines is set the balancer to 10 BTC. Then drop in the dizzy and aling it with number 1 plug. That should get you close to the 10btc. After startup pull the spout and hit it with a timming light. Remember the computer is expecting 10 btc so moving it around will only confuse the putter. Don't forget to reinstall spout plug after your done.

The TV cable always confused me also but I do know if it is not set correctly your tranny will burn up in less than a mile. Have fun with it.

The other questions I'm not sure..

[randyr]

Regarding your TV cable, I thought I posted this earlier in the thread but didn't see it when I scanned back through. Here's a little youtube tutorial that makes is seem pretty simple. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6L3hNzxdiYw

[dotcentral]

I saw that video before Randy, and I'm pretty confident I can sent the tension on the TV cable. I have done it on a Lokar cable plenty of times. My question is that the white plastic part where the black part of the cable ends; at this place the white plastic is broken on mine and so that the whole end flops around. The actual cable seems to work fine, so might be fine as is. I may also be missing a piece as it doen't seem want to "lock" into the TB the way the Ken Collins video shows. May need to watch the video next to my TB and see what difference there is, if any.

[randyr]

I saw that video before Randy, and I'm pretty confident I can sent the tension on the TV cable. I have done it on a Lokar cable plenty of times. My question is that the white plastic part where the black part of the cable ends; at this place the white plastic is broken on mine and so that the whole end flops around. The actual cable seems to work fine, so might be fine as is. I may also be missing a piece as it doen't seem want to "lock" into the TB the way the Ken Collins video shows. May need to watch the video next to my TB and see what difference there is, if any.

I checked my cable and it looks the same as yours. When it's locked in place it seems to work fine. I'm planning to use it as is unless it proves me wrong when I get it running.

[dotcentral]

Update.

I was hoping to start it today, or at least get it close so I could start it tomorrow. But several problems cropped up.

1. The bolt for the belt tensioner has been discontinued by Ford. It is 12 mm shoulder bolt, 91.5 mm long, and the last 25-30 mm would be threaded, the rest is not. Maybe one of the large parts houses like Greens will have it. I need to install the belt tensioner, determine belt size, and install a serpentine belt. Edit to say, local Ford dealer sent me on a goose chase. I eventually got a bolt that will work, after wasting a few bucks and a couple of weeks

2. Not sure which of the transmission coolant lines is the "in" line and the "out" line, the upper or lower. Anyone know? Doesn't exactly prevent me from starting, but wanted to hook them up today. Got it figured out.

3. Bronco II gas tank. I notched the frame, but not quite enough. tomorrow I get to pull the bed again and enlarge the frame notch. Done. Now I can't remember if I securely fastened the lock ring for the sending unit.

4. bolt for battery ground to block. Lost mine, what size bolt is this on a 5.0? Found one that works.

Also, question on wiring at the alternator/starter solenoid area. I think I read somewhere that with a RJM harness a fusible link is no longer needed. Previously I had a 16 gauge fusible link running from alternator to batt side of the starter solenoid. Am I right, can this be eliminated?

[dotcentral]

1. I just noticed the RJM instructions say to ground the ECU. How have any of you accomplished this? One end should be simple enough, I figure I will ground it to a bare spot under the dash. But how did you attach a ground wire to the ECU? Or is it attached to the bolt the holds the cable to the ECU female plug end?

Since reading the threads here about grounding the EEC my plan is to attach a ground wire to one of the computer's screws. I have not seen much on having to ground the EEC but it won't hurt to ground it. me that. [/color]

PFM, you are going ground the ECU using one of the screws on the ECU case?

I have been meaning to call RJM and ask them if it is needed or if the harness ground does this for us.

The plan is to use one of the case screws to hook up a ground wire. It will be one of the 6 screws holding the cover on the EEC.

I havn't grounded my EEC in my 64 (A9L-using RJM harness) so I don't think it is needed but I will try it with the CrewCab just in case. Worst case it helps and if not I won't loose anything.

Called RJM on Friday. The RJM harness grounds itself and the ECU through the supplied ground on the harness.

[dotcentral]

Last couple items, I think:

Find and install a 88" or there abouts serpentine belt.

Prime the oil.

Finish installing the fuel filler door for under bed gas tank. (not really a must do as far as the 5.0 swap goes).

Add a few gallons of gas.

Have a fire extinguisher handy.

[randyr]

YeeHaw, Dot!! That's great news! I wish I was ready to fire mine up but I have a few more details to work out before I pull the old 352. I'm anxious to see how it goes for ya. Hope you can post up some more pics, too! Good luck!!!

[dotcentral]

I had not been able to do anything else on the truck until today. Finally got a nice day and some time to do something.

Someone please verify for me the proper routing of battery cables and the ground cable.

1. Battery positive to front end of starter solenoid (end closest to battery & grille).

2. Battery negative to ground (engine block).

3. Back end of starter solenoid (end closest to firewall) to starter.

Is this correct or do I need to swap the connections on #2 & 3?

[Toyz]

Assuming a correctly mounted solenoid, you are correct. If the solenoid mounting "tangs" are near the top of solenoid, it is mounted as per original.
You certainly DO NOT want to ground output (closest to firewall) side of solenoid. It would cause a direct short to ground when attempting to start with probably disasterous consequences.
Paul

[dotcentral]

Still having problems with the starter. I can not get the starter to turn over when mounted to the trans/ring gear. With the starter removed, laying on the driveway, and using jumper cables it seems to work fine. Same starter as came with the donor engine, for a 91 T-bird w/ 5.0 EFI H.O. Starter worked fine in the T-bird, 4+ years ago.

1. Starter wiring. There is a metal blade connector close to where the red battery cable-like wire mounts to the starter (the cable that runs to the starter solenoid.) What attaches to this blade connector? Should this be wired to a keyed 12 v source? Or a jumper from this blade connector terminal to the starter/battery cable mount?

2. Starter solenoid. There are two small diameter threaded terminals or "lugs" that light gauge wiring with "L" shaped boots attaches to. Both seem to be a constant 12 v with the ignition key in the run position. Should there be at least one keyed 12v lug or terminal on this thing?

Using a RJM aftermarket harness, the simpler/cheaper one. I am not seeing starter hook up covered in the RJM instructs, but didn't really think I'd have a problem with this.

I will try to find my camera and take a few photos to help with the visuals.

[Toyz]

OK, not familar with the RJM harness, but;
1) Sounds as if you have a gear-reduction starter with the solenoid mounted on it. If so, the fender mounted device is now a starter relay. The "s" terminal (on the fender relay) will need a wire from the ignition switch start position to energize the starter mounted solenoid. The large terminal on the relay (nearest to firewall) runs to the "S" lug on the solenoid. Normally there will be another heavy wire routed from the battery side of the relay to the "B" terminal on the solenoid. The remaining solenoid terminal feeds directly to the starter motor.
This leads us to:
2) The small terminal on the relay nearest the battery will be energized by the ignition switch when in run or start positions. The other terminal is designed to feed an ignition box, so if you are running Duraspark, this terminal will be engaged whenever power is provided to the other small terminal. If that L-shaped wire connector shows constant voltage before being connected to the terminal, I need more specific info about your ignition system. If that wire only powers up when connected with the switch on, then all should be well.
Hope this helps; if not, the pics may be needed to determine your setup.
BTW, the available fire extinguisher is a good practice!

Paul

[dotcentral]

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Well, having problems posting pics. I will place in my album.

Starter I am using. A friend has suggested jumpering the small, flat blade lug to the bolt, but based on what most people online have written, that might invite problems down the road.

[Toyz]

I don't see any inherent problems in the use of a quality jumper as opposed to running additional wiring from the fender relay. When making a custom fenderwell routed harness, I have eliminated the fender relay on several applications in the interest of a clean look.
Paul