Slick 60's

Figured I would post here as it is not a slick. Helped my Brother in Law drag home a 1977 (Supercab Shortbed with the Explorer package) the other day. It is rusty but we are gathering patch panels for it. Beyond the rust it is an all original truck with no dents...other than the ones the factory put on it

One problem we are having is that it runs for about 10 minutes and then dies. This is why the old guy who owned it was selling it. I replaced the coil and the blue duraspark II module. The coil gets very hot...that's not supposed to happen is it?

Might want to check the gas cap and/or the tank vent. When the truck dies, remove the gas cap and see if there is an inrush of air into the tank.
I have seen where the wrong cap is installed or where the vent is plugged. In both cases the rig will run until the fuel pump pulls a vacuum in the tank that "overpowers" the draw of the pump.

Roger Carter

I can check that. But if I pump it once right after it dies, I can crank it over and start it right back up.

I just had a similar problem yesterday. I was driving along and the motor dies, and will not restart. After about 40 minutes, it fired right up. I am suspecting that the coil should be replaced, but at the same time I wonder about fuel delivery. I removed the air cleaner and pumped the accelerator a few times and did not smell any gas (I had changed the fuel filter recently).Is vapor lock a problem with anyones's slick?
(100% stock 352).

Too bad you aren't closer I will be parting a 1977 Supercab out soon, being held up by too much rain right now, the small ditch I have to cross to get the truck is a raging river right now.

Shortbed supercab by chance?

in2hotrods wrote:Shortbed supercab by chance?

It was a long bed, now it is a no bed LOL. Rest of truck is there, its the one posted in my gallery.

Looks good, our 77 is way rusty! Wish we were closer, I could use that frame from my 66 crew cab with a short bed. It's like 10 hours according to google. How long is that thing anyway?

Two updates actually:

First update:

Finally got the 77 supercab running. The ignition switch was the culprit in sending too much voltage to the coil. Also, fuel pump was weak, not bad...just weak. Lastly, but mostly unrelated we changed out the alternator and the starter because although they worked they needed new bushings.

Second update:

Dragged home another dent. It's a 79 longbed supercab ranger. I wanted it for the frame for my crew cab project but it is too nice to part out. So...I got it inspected, insured and now it's my main truck! Did I mention it was only $350!!! I drove it home!

in2hotrods wrote:Two updates actually:

First update:

Finally got the 77 supercab running. The ignition switch was the culprit in sending too much voltage to the coil. Also, fuel pump was weak, not bad...just weak. Lastly, but mostly unrelated we changed out the alternator and the starter because although they worked they needed new bushings.

Second update:

Dragged home another dent. It's a 79 longbed supercab ranger. I wanted it for the frame for my crew cab project but it is too nice to part out. So...I got it inspected, insured and now it's my main truck! Did I mention it was only $350!!! I drove it home!

Congrats on the second truck but figured I should tell you that it is physically impossible for an ignition switch to send too much voltage to a coil. Whatever the issue was it was not the switch sending too much voltage. Hawkrod

All I know for sure is that I changed the switch and bypassed my temporary dodge resistor back to the factory wiring on the coil...and when I remeasured the running voltage it was correct. Before changing the ignition switch the voltage was at the higher level given when cranking to start. I figured it must be the old switch was corroded.

I'm just glad it is fixed.