Slick 60's

Hello,

I've started pulling apart my 66 wanting to repair an exhaust leak at the exhaust pipe gasket and manifolds Problem is I don't have much time with a 3 yr old and family commitments. I know an exhaust leak isn't a good thing in this area, but if I drive the truck occasionally does is it cause much damage? Or do you think I could leave it?

Thanks for the opinions!

You may not smell exhaust, but you could still be getting CO2 in the cab. I would not drive it without a widow open.

Personally I can't stand exhaust leaks. (not the same as loud exhaust ) I know the studs at the manifold can be a pain, and even break off sometimes. Then you might have to bite the bullit and take off the manifolds, bring 'em to a machine shop and have new studs put in, buy new gaskets, etc. But then it will be done and not a worry anymore.

Second option - take it to a shop and see what they would charge you to have it done.

I have a perpetual leak at the heat riser on the driver's side of my 352. New gaskets last for about a week, then blow out. It's mostly annoying listening to the ticking sound, but you do get some exhaust odor also. Other than the risk to your personal health, it doesn't really do any 'damage' to the truck.

Oh man...talk about aggravating. Yes they suck. Have you tried the brass gaskets? Ive had mine in since last year and everything has been good so far.

Forget the gaskets entirely guys... I had some major exhaust leaks on the 352 in my '66. After much searching, I followed some advice to use only Ultra Copper Silicone and so far it is working AWESOME!

I believe this is the brand I used...

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automo ... _Maker.htm

I have purchased the gaskets. Do you need to put any sealent on them? I can't tell if I'm getting C02 odor over the smell of the gas tank. So a high end exhaust leak doesn' t burn headers?

In reading your original post, not sure where you're leaking. between manifold and head or between manifold and pipe. If it's the latter, maybe just a new donut or possibly a new pipe section.

About 6 mos ago I replaced both exhaust manifolds on my 352. Originals were so broke they came off in pieces.
I had a little erosion on the heads where my manis were leaking (probably for quite a while) so I wouldn't let it go forever.

Anyway, I used heat shield metal gaskets along with the ultra copper like qwertyd10n mentioned. Thin layer on each side of gasket. Seems to be doing great also.

I was lucky in that I got all the bolts out without a problem, but also be careful putting back together, I broke an upper ear on one head when I was tightening back down.

the exhaust manifold bolts on the top side of an FE can be a pain to remove. i would suggest spraying some penetrating oil on there and letting them soak for a few days. if the donut gaskets are leaking they are surprisingly easy to fix. i have never had a problem braking those nuts loose.

These will fix it.

http://www.perfweldheaders.com/zoomieprices.html

http://www.lakeheaders.com/ZOOMIE_HEADERS.html

have to watch the donut leaks, the passenger side is real close to the firewall and i have seen melting of wires and burned firewall pads from the hot exhaust before.

huskilvr wrote: I can't tell if I'm getting C02 odor over the smell of the gas tank.

I"m not trying to start anything - just trying to keep the record straight:

--- CO (carbon monoxide) is the exhaust emission of concern; not CO2 (carbon dioxide).
CO will kill you in minutes - the Immediately Dangerous to Life and Health concentration (IDLH) for CO is only 1,200 ppm.
Whereas the IDLH for CO2 is 40,000 ppm.

The major exposure difference is that even if there is adequate oxygen in the surrounding air, your body will absorb CO INSTEAD of the oxygen. Thus, you can still be poisoned from it in an oxygen-rich environment.

2ndly, pure CO is odorless. What you're smelling are the other emission gases... non-burned hydrocarbons.
Bottomline: Don't rely on odor as a estimated determinator of exhaust emission concentrations.

Unless you are exposed to LARGE amounts, CO2 will just make you tired. Remember, they dissolve CO2 into beer and soda pop, so this should indicate that it isn't too big of a deal.....

BarnieTrk

Greg D wrote:These will fix it.

http://www.perfweldheaders.com/zoomieprices.html

http://www.lakeheaders.com/ZOOMIE_HEADERS.html

And the neighbors will love ya for it.

The leaks not the problem, the problem is getting those 40yr old exhaust manifold bolts out without snapping them.

i have been sprayin my manifold bolts every couple of days for about a week(with some B-G penetrating lube) and readin this post made me promptly go out and try to get the manifolds off and install gaskets... two broke bolts and some strong words i gave up to wait for a blue wrench.

I got to get some of this from work
http://news.thomasnet.com/companystory/511914
PB Blaster is good but Aero Kroil is awesome.

the stuff i have is really good i have used it on stuff i didnt expect it to work on and it has every time ...but this one
http://www.3sx.com/store/comersus_viewI ... roduct=612

ABA wrote:I got to get some of this from work
http://news.thomasnet.com/companystory/511914
PB Blaster is good but Aero Kroil is awesome.

Aero Kroil can be bought here:
http://www.eastwood.com/aerokroil-16-5-oz-aerosol.html

1st) I heat the stuck bolt/nut with a propane torch
2nd) Spray on Aero Kroil
3rd) Firmly tap on the the stuck bolt/nut with a hammer
4th) Let it soak for at least one hour; preferably over night.

That usually works for me!
BarnieTrk

The author of the Big-Block Ford Engine book claims to remove the exhaust manifold with the engine running. He says that he's never broken a bolt after lubricating and then heating em up with the engine running. Has anyone tried this?