Slick 60's

so i got a 64 styleside long bed from a fellow member. im stripping everything off this truck from the bed forward. he kept the engine and tranny. so after stripping everything off the truck im stuck with a long bed, frame, and the rear running gear. ive decided to make this bed, its frame, and running gear into a matching trailer for my truck. has anyone out there done this? if so how much of the frame should i keep forward of the bed so that it can be cut, bent in, and have a hitch welded on? thanks

Done it many times. Cut the frame about 3' ahead of the box, notch the top and bottom flanges and bend the rails in so they trap a length of 2" heavy wall square tubing. Run this tubing back to the front of the box to a handy X-member, or weld in a square tube one. Add a 2" trailer ball and it's done. If you want to get fancy you can hook up the lights, and even convert the rear end to electric trailer brakes.

I am planning to do the same thing with a truck I have. Mine is an F250 with a full floater, so I can pull the axles, cut them off and cap off the axle again, so the gears don't turn for less rolling resistance. Then I planned on putting a hydraulic surge brake tongue hitch on it and hook it up to the original wheel cylinders in the drum brakes. I think it would be cool to have a matching trailer to use for rough hauling so the box on my truck doesn't get beat up. How do these truck box trailers tow? Do they have enough tongue weight? I guess the rear section of a 70s Super CS would be the best because the axle is moved closer to the rear which would give more tongue weight and better towing. Just wouldn't match the slick though...

I'm planning on doing the same thing with my other '65 bed, its a short bed though. The floor is pretty much gone, so it's not much use for anything else. I wanna put a wooden floor in it maybe.

I have made several of these trailers, but used Datsun or Nissan trucks. Much lighter and easier to work with, although more rust prone. I will try to post pictures of my current one tomorrow.

I cut the frame off as far under the cab as possible. The balance is almost always off on these (not enough tongue weight when loaded) so make it long. I added a wooden storage box to the front and relocated the spare along side to help the weight distribution. Also, a shorter trailer is a bear to back up.

I cut notches in the top & bottom of the C channel frame right where the box starts, then bent the two frame members together until they converge straight ahead. Then scare up some square tubing that fits a 1 17/8" or 2" boat trailer hitch - you will need enough length to make a T tongue unless your donor truck has a cross brace that lines up at the back. I don't weld, so I had a guy stick it all together for me.

Tennessee does not require licensing but does require lights if the tow vehicle's lights are blocked. I wired mine to boat trailer lights and put on safety chains. Now it has a camper cap as well.

These work great, but be ready for the redneck jokes <g>

Doug

Pictures posted in my user folder at

http://fordtruk.com/forums/album.php?user_id=336

Trailor is rougher than a cob, but I can use it on and off road almost anywhere. Pulls as well behind the tractor as a car.

Doug

I have one that i am thinking about painting up to match my 66 custom cab

here's my 70 trailer.

Hey Chris did you see the slick trailer on eBay that was for sale at Overland Park?

no i didn't byron. i don't get on there much. is it still listed?