y block rebuild

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1961 slickwilly
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y block rebuild

Post by 1961 slickwilly »

has anybody on here built a y block and some preformance out of it. its the original motor that came in the truck and i'd like to keep it that way. i just like more pep in its step from the yblock and ideas?
Obsa
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Post by Obsa »

Slickwilly,

There a book avalible through Amazon here is a link

http://www.amazon.com/Ford-Y-Block-J-Ei ... 446&sr=8-1
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62galxe
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Post by 62galxe »

this is a great site. http://www.y-blocksforever.com/
good info here. you need to check the tech info on this site. http://www.ford-y-block.com/
Eickmans book is good but has errors.
Kenny
1963 uni PATINA BLUE
1965 short bed
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1961 slickwilly
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Post by 1961 slickwilly »

man thats stuff is high i could use this 302 i have and buy a top end kit and put out more power than that i think a y block could but then again i could be wrong. but then again that yblock stroker kit is a little out of my price range
Gritsngumbo
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Post by Gritsngumbo »

Yeah, but you still wouldn't have a Y-Block, nor the "cool factor". Seriously, a lot depends on how you plan to use the truck and how much you want/have to spend on an engine.

As a guy over on the H.A.M.B says "This nostalgia stuff is getting old" (and I might add: expensive) LOL
If you understand what you’re doing, you’re not learning anything.


LITTLE RED: 64 F100 Short Style
BIG RED: 62 F100 Long Uni
BIG “UN": 63 F250 Long Flare
BBW RED: 61 F100 CC BBW Long Uni
CRIMSON CREW: 63 F100 "Stageway" Long Flare Crew Cab
"RANGER": 66 F100 CC Long Flatbed
"AVA" 1963 Avion T-20 Travel Trailer
“Lucille” 1955 New Moon 44’ Travel Trailer
Obsa
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Post by Obsa »

Definetly if you are going for the cool factor a Y Block 292 or 312 and a 3 x 2 barrel intake like
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_z6s3X4gR3HA/S ... MG2939.jpg
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jakdad
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Post by jakdad »

Nothing else sounds like a Y-Block. I would pick up a set of G-Heads, use the blower grind tubular pushrods and a mild cam. Headers would be great but pricey. The 57 up four barrell cast iron intake is just fine with a 600 CFM Holley. Good luck.
Jim
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charliemccraney
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Post by charliemccraney »

Well, I haven't had mine on a real dyno but Dynosim 2008 says it should be in the neighborhood of 356hp @ 5500rpm and 380ft/lbs @ 4000. I think that is a little optimistic. I fed it every bit of information it asked to do the simulation. Based on other similarly built engines, I think I am very near the 1hp/ci mark. It sure feels like it!

You will have more money in a Y-block. I think it's worth it. I get all sorts of compliments about the way it looks, sounds, and performs. My most entertaining moment was when a supposedly "hardcore" ford guy chastised me about putting a Chevy in my truck - he saw the distributor in the back.

I think it's more a question of how much you want to spend. It'll do what a 302 can. In fact, you'll probably be able to get more power out of a stock blocked Y than a stock blocked 302. There are several 450hp, up to 770hp Ys with stock blocks - it's all we have. Try that with a stock 302 block. Granted, these are not street vehicles, but at those power levels, with such a small engine, you're probably not thinking street driving.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
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1961 slickwilly
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Post by 1961 slickwilly »

gritsandgumbo your right i love my yblock but i've never messed with one until now so i'm kinda lost when it comes to them
Gritsngumbo
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Post by Gritsngumbo »

charliemccraney wrote:My most entertaining moment was when a supposedly "hardcore" ford guy chastised me about putting a Chevy in my truck - he saw the distributor in the back.
Unless they're an enthusiast, most folks under 40 don't have a clue as to what a Y-block is. Always interesting to stand back and listen to comments at a show.
If you understand what you’re doing, you’re not learning anything.


LITTLE RED: 64 F100 Short Style
BIG RED: 62 F100 Long Uni
BIG “UN": 63 F250 Long Flare
BBW RED: 61 F100 CC BBW Long Uni
CRIMSON CREW: 63 F100 "Stageway" Long Flare Crew Cab
"RANGER": 66 F100 CC Long Flatbed
"AVA" 1963 Avion T-20 Travel Trailer
“Lucille” 1955 New Moon 44’ Travel Trailer
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charliemccraney
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Post by charliemccraney »

Gritsngumbo wrote: Unless they're an enthusiast, most folks under 40 don't have a clue as to what a Y-block is.
I'll buy that. Though, if this guy was under 40, he had lived a real rough life. He looked like he was at least alive when they were new engines. I thought he was joking at first but he was quite serious.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
Gritsngumbo
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Post by Gritsngumbo »

Probably had a few dead brain cells too! Common symptom of the 60's.
If you understand what you’re doing, you’re not learning anything.


LITTLE RED: 64 F100 Short Style
BIG RED: 62 F100 Long Uni
BIG “UN": 63 F250 Long Flare
BBW RED: 61 F100 CC BBW Long Uni
CRIMSON CREW: 63 F100 "Stageway" Long Flare Crew Cab
"RANGER": 66 F100 CC Long Flatbed
"AVA" 1963 Avion T-20 Travel Trailer
“Lucille” 1955 New Moon 44’ Travel Trailer
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1961 slickwilly
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Post by 1961 slickwilly »

i've had several pple ask me what it was when i tell them my has a v8. most of my friends are die hard chevy fans and when i tell them its a 292 they stepp back a question a second and say thats no chevvy inline 6 and i tell them its a ford v8 292 y block. they laugh but the second i crunk it up and mine has a straight and a flowmaster single chamber race muffler. they suddenly change their additude about and love the sound and love the lines of the uni
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Greg D
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Post by Greg D »

A Windsor isn't a bad power package for the money, they can be built almost as cheap as a small block chevy nowadays.
A properly built Y should actually last longer - this is one factor that evens the money out. A Y has a huge cool factor that the windsor can't match. Some of what you would save on the Y you will spend buying the proper mount setup to get the windsor in your truck.
How much power are you looking for? A T-5 conversion behind the Y will also change the power curve in the various gears to a much better setup. You can do just the tranny swap and it will drive like you have a whole different engine.
1964 F 100 - I am going to do "something" with it.......

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=15942

1987 Mustang LX Convertible, 2.3 Auto - cruiser.
1994 F 150 XLT 2WD


~ Yes - I adopted another cat..............

Cam L Milan,
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1961 slickwilly
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Post by 1961 slickwilly »

i want to atleast get 1 hp for cu.in. and would love to do the stroker kit. i also looked into putting a t5 in but which one would work because the mustang shifting postion is so far back but my truck will have seats and cosole from a 1999-2002 gmc. i also looked into putting a t18 or t19 in it. i would love to have a T5 but how will it bolt up and modifcations to the bell housing and input shaft etc.
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charliemccraney
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Post by charliemccraney »

This should help with the T5

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/T ... 4-4-1.aspx

Breaking news. A new Y-block record was set last weekend. 7.966 @ 171.46mph. That's got to be around 800hp!

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/T ... 3-5-1.aspx
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
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1961 slickwilly
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Post by 1961 slickwilly »

i just finished reading your post that i found in the search area but that is way more power than i want to run. i'm going to finish up my disc brake install the start buying pats for the t5 install. but what kind of price am i loking at for a start to finish t5 insatll?
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charliemccraney
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Post by charliemccraney »

Well, it depends how you do it. I used all new parts. By the time it was done, it was just over $2000. A used transmission can save a lot of $$. You might be able to re-use some of your clutch parts. I think it can be done for less than $1000.
Lawrenceville, Ga
1961 F100 Unibody
318 Y-block (292 +.070 bore, +.170 stroke), FMS T5-Z w/Mustang 10.5" diaphragm clutch.
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1961 slickwilly
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Post by 1961 slickwilly »

i mite try to pick up parts as i go it mite be spring before i get started collecting parts but that seems like a plan. after its all hooked and functional i'll start collecting parts for the stroker y block
motormount1

motor mount

Post by motormount1 »

you could find a good cam regrinder and took your cam shaft to them and have it built up a little bit.but it would be a good idea to change your vavle springs before you put the cam back in there.
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