Slick 60's

I was reading the post on lowering a uni and I have been wanting to improve the stance of my 66 later. But I ahvenever put an axle on the top of the springs before.
Do you cut off and reweld the mounts and what about pinion angle, brake lines, etc.
Thanks Brian
Later I will ask how bad it would be to cut a coil off the front and how it will affect alignment.

no cuttign or welding needed. you unbolt the rearend. drop it down. unbolt all of the ubolts. remove the springs. spint he rear end around from one side to the other. then turn the rear end so the spring perches are facing down. put the springs back on from the bottom of and onto the spring perches which should now be on the bottom. then bolt it all back into the truck.

Fordman wrote:no cuttign or welding needed. you unbolt the rearend. drop it down. unbolt all of the ubolts. remove the springs. spint he rear end around from one side to the other. then turn the rear end so the spring perches are facing down. put the springs back on from the bottom of and onto the spring perches which should now be on the bottom. then bolt it all back into the truck.

Won't the vent leak out the fluid then?

thats what i was told to do. i never did it. and you are right it would.

and me thinks you would have 3 or 4 reverse gears and only 1 foward gear....

slick 4x4 you are correct . you cant just flip over like previosly stated. like grg said the vent would pour fluid out and the fill and drian plugs would be point less. the correct way and the only way is like greg said weld on new perches. my uni is lowered 5" in the back and 4" in the front and if i flipped my axle i would have to do a c notch in the frame but if i flipped mine it would lower the rear 8" i have pictures in my build int the projects&buils section

Why not just do the frame mount flip?

Greg D wrote:

Fordman wrote:no cuttign or welding needed. you unbolt the rearend. drop it down. unbolt all of the ubolts. remove the springs. spint he rear end around from one side to the other. then turn the rear end so the spring perches are facing down. put the springs back on from the bottom of and onto the spring perches which should now be on the bottom. then bolt it all back into the truck.

Won't the vent leak out the fluid then?

Plus the shock mounts would be facing up not down!

Fordman wrote:
no cuttign or welding needed. you unbolt the rearend. drop it down. unbolt all of the ubolts. remove the springs. spint he rear end around from one side to the other. then turn the rear end so the spring perches are facing down. put the springs back on from the bottom of and onto the spring perches which should now be on the bottom. then bolt it all back into the truck.

and me thinks you would have 3 or 4 reverse gears and only 1 foward gear....

You would be really slow getting where you are going, but driving backwards home would get you there really quick.

Kevin

Fordman wrote:no cuttign or welding needed. you unbolt the rearend. drop it down. unbolt all of the ubolts. remove the springs. spint he rear end around from one side to the other. then turn the rear end so the spring perches are facing down. put the springs back on from the bottom of and onto the spring perches which should now be on the bottom. then bolt it all back into the truck.

I worked with somebody that did this. he had 3 speeds backwards and 1 forward.

with Phil... Wouldn't it be easier to flip the leaf spring mount?? Don't know much on this since mine is 4x4. If I were lowering though I think I would do the mount... just my
Anthony

I worked with somebody that did this. he had 3 speeds backwards and 1 forward.
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I have a tough time believing this. If the rearend was rotated around the pinion, direction would not change. The pinion would still turn the same direction. If it worked like that, Alan would have to have different parts than we have.

I'd be worried about the pinion angle, like Brian mentioned. Plus, if it is a longbed, what about the carrier bearing? Seems like it would need adjusted somehow as well, or go to a one piece driveshaft.

At the risk of taking this off topic (I apologize Brian) If he doesn't want to slam the truck, can't he just raise the front spring or shackle mounts?Seems like I read that on here before. Probably still have to mess with the pinion angle with that as well.

Truckfarmer2 wrote:I worked with somebody that did this. he had 3 speeds backwards and 1 forward.
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I have a tough time believing this. If the rearend was rotated around the pinion, direction would not change. The pinion would still turn the same direction. If it worked like that, Alan would have to have different parts than we have.

If you flip the rearend over, it does turn the wheels the opposite direction. This puts the ring gear on the opposite side of the pinion which will make it turn backwards. If the pinion gear is pushing down on the ring gear, it will be pushing up if it is on the other side of the pinion. If the pinion angle is set at 3 degrees up it will go to 3 degrees down. When I usd to fool around with Volkswagens in sandrails, we would turn them around and make the engine mid-engine instead of rear engine. To counteract this, we could take the transaxle apart and put the ring gear on the other side of the pinion and make it work properly. This was possible the way that a old VW trans was set up.
Even if he lowers the spring mounts, he should check the pinion angle because it will probably change.
Find an old rearend sitting around somewhere and try it.

Kevin

62galxe wrote: I worked with somebody that did this. he had 3 speeds backwards and 1 forward.

Sounds like a great vehicle for the Italian army

this is my first post, just signed up. it's true, i flipped mine like that, 1 front gear..........3 rev gears............it sucked

I didn't try this but only because I had read about two goofs doing just that in a CarToons magazine. Anyone remember those?